1981 Double Eagle gets a second chance

Just speculation here but I would assume you sit the cut stringer alongside the cut out where it’s going to sit in in order to get your angles just right ?
I find these threads so interesting as one day I’m going to tackle a rebuild, just cause.
I was able to remove the original stringers and use them as templates. In a lot of cases the stringers would be to far gone to use as a template so in that case you would do what you are suggesting.
 
Th

Thank you. But its far from easy. Proper tools are a big help. I fought for over two hours to get the first stringer out with out damaging the fibreglass the second took about an hour. Also cutting the hull angle on the new stringer was no easy task. I love the challenge.

Just wondering if you could take us through the process of how you got the stringers out without damaging the Fibreglass or the existing stringers too much. Looks like a great way to go if you are able. Will probably save you a ton of work later and when cutting the new stringers as you have a perfect pattern and a LOT of glass work to get back to this point. Great work, looking forward to seeing the new ones cut and going in.

Oly
 
Just wondering if you could take us through the process of how you got the stringers out without damaging the Fibreglass or the existing stringers too much. Looks like a great way to go if you are able. Will probably save you a ton of work later and when cutting the new stringers as you have a perfect pattern and a LOT of glass work to get back to this point. Great work, looking forward to seeing the new ones cut and going in.

Oly
I used my Dremel Ultra Saw to cut the top of the fibreglass off about 1 inch down from the top, both sides then using a wood chisel I worked it under the cap and slowly pried It away from the wood. It came rather easy other then where staples were put through to hold the floor down. Once I had the top fibreglass off I used the wood chisel and a small crowbar to gently move the fibreglass away from the sides of the wood while putting in something to hold it apart. Worked my way up and down both sides. See attached picture. Once I had that done I worked my crowbar under the stinger tapping it in with the hammer lift a little tap a little over and over, it finally popped and then it easily lifted out.
 

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Now working on the transom getting it ready for another layer of 3/4inch marine grade plywood.
 

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Now working on the transom getting it ready for another layer of 3/4inch marine grade plywood.

@DanJ I measured my transom in the same place, it was 2 1/4 " thick
2 " of plywood and 1/8 " of fiberglass on each side
Where did you buy your marine plywood from ?
I called Ultralux Plastic Industries in Richmond on friday for some pricing on fiberglassing supplies 1/3 cheaper than from IP in town here
George the owner was a wealth of info, a little hard to understand thought
Might have to make a pilgrimage to the mainland and buy all the glassing supplies at once
 
I miss worded that. My transom had a 1/4 inch piece of plywood that I removed plus the fibreglass skin over that. So I would think it would have been about the same thickness as yours. I removed it so I can put a large 1 piece across the whole transom and glass it in. That will give me all the strength I need to mount the pod. When I glass the piece in I will wrap the glass onto the sides of the boat about 12 inches and also onto the bottom of the boat. I have a couple other ideas for reinforcement as well.
 

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No posts because I am working on tedious tasks that eat up time but don’t show any real resaults. Things like scraping the small bits of foam off of the fibreglass and sanding lumps and bumps before I lay on my new transom wood. I picked up a couple sheets today oh and new fuel tank arrived.
 

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Test fit the first layer of the new transom. Looks good so far. Now I will glass that one into place then do a second layer and glass it as well. I am waiting on some penetrating Epoxy that should be here next week to treat them first.
 

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Dang Dan, Thats going to be a great boat once you get her finished, nice work, keep the pic's coming...
 
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For the floor surface?
I have been researching foam core fibreglassing and might go that route for the floor. I am interested in the learning and the building. I have another boat that I can use to go fishing when I get the itch. This boat is more so to fill a need to create a vision I have in my mind so how long it takes is not important. Its more about the journey and the experience
 
Its been to cold to work on the boat other then sanding and cleaning up so today I took a little run in my Campion. What a beautiful day Dec 2nd 2020. 885185A6-0EE6-47B6-9A9D-8F18DD0BE63A.jpeg
 

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Set the plug with thickened epoxy then sanded it down to match the curve of the transom. Getting closer to adding the new plywood. I also cut the fibreglass I will need to lay up once the plywood goes on. My thoughts are, layer of thickened epoxy then first sheet of 1/2 inch marine grade ply followed by a layer of 1708 fibreglass, second sheet of 1/2 inch marine grade ply then two layers of 1708 fibreglass. Once that is done I will tab the sides and bottom to the hull. This should give me a 3 1/4 inch thick transom.
 

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I'm curious as to why you plan on using epoxy rather than poly? Much more expensive isn't it? In the past I always scored the plywood with a skil saw or table saw before saturating with resin and bonding to the existing structure for a better bond.Thickened poly with chopped strand bonds well.
 
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