1981 Double Eagle gets a second chance

What kind of pod design are you going with? Is she 20ft? Are you having any issues with blush from the epoxy? Looks good so far nice work.
No issues with blush but I wash the epoxy really well after it is cured. I will attach a picture of the pod I am looking to have made and yes she is a 20’
 

Attachments

  • F969CDD7-9465-4BDD-83B7-315B29933848.jpeg
    F969CDD7-9465-4BDD-83B7-315B29933848.jpeg
    112.4 KB · Views: 234
No issues with blush but I wash the epoxy really well after it is cured. I will attach a picture of the pod I am looking to have made and yes she is a 20’
Nice that's great on the epoxy. Washing and scotch bright seem to do the trick. If you can get peel ply its a nice alternative if you don't want to get the area wet after.

The pod fab looks clean. I would personally consider having the bracket go all the way down to the planning surface of the hull so you get more lift. From experience in my 20ft hourston it made a big difference to reduce the negative CG changes going from IB to OB. Otherwise, you will need to use a lot of tab to have the boat ride correctly. Liking the project, keep it up.
 
something like this, but out of alum. Hopefully, you can see the difference.
Thank you for the advice. The company building the pod is going to look at it once they have the boat in their hands. I am moving the fuel tank under the floor so that is going to change things up a bit as well.
 
Looks great. Are you going to use some Guidecoat and block it down?
I would like to, but I have had some bad luck working with Gel Coat on my last build. ( Had to remove all of it because it would not cure) ended up using Interlux paint and it turned out great.
 
I would like to, but I have had some bad luck working with Gel Coat on my last build. ( Had to remove all of it because it would not cure) ended up using Interlux paint and it turned out great.
Sorry Dan, I was speaking to a product called “guidecoat”.. you can get it in a spray can or apply it with a brush.. it sticks to the surface so when you’re sanding you can see where the highs and lows are.

1619108640161.jpeg
 
I would like to, but I have had some bad luck working with Gel Coat on my last build. ( Had to remove all of it because it would not cure) ended up using Interlux paint and it turned out great.
You can always reduce the gel with Duratec and catalyze accordingly should give an awesome product with higher durability and more room for error. IF you like paint then that is great too of course. I'm just too hard on things to have a pretty boat with paint and my fairing isn't good enough LOL.

As for the pod, I also moved fuel forward on mine. Maybe not as far. Are you planning that the tanks will go into the galley area? That could work well for the CG. If you're just moving them forward in the back deck it won't be enough from my experience. The safe bet is the full planning pod and you get the added benefit of more static flotation and better manors in swell etc. I believe the cons of a full planning pod are heavily outweighed by the pros. Totally your call. keep up the good work. Glad I'm not the only muppet playing with fiberglass in my free time.
 
Sorry Dan, I was speaking to a product called “guidecoat”.. you can get it in a spray can or apply it with a brush.. it sticks to the surface so when you’re sanding you can see where the highs and lows are.

View attachment 64643
Aaah yes. Not for this section as it is going to be covered up by the pod so it does not have to be like new. When I do the sides of the boat I will use it there are a few scratches that need attention and I want those to be 100% perfect.
 
Looks good! I second moving the belly tank as far forward as possible. My 130L guy tank runs from 8” forward of stern to first bulkhead where step down is. If it were me doing it again it would be from rear bulkhead to cuddy bulkhead. Only problem is headroom if I do this, raising hardtop would be a must on the 20’2’’ hourston.
 
You can always reduce the gel with Duratec and catalyze accordingly should give an awesome product with higher durability and more room for error. IF you like paint then that is great too of course. I'm just too hard on things to have a pretty boat with paint and my fairing isn't good enough LOL.

As for the pod, I also moved fuel forward on mine. Maybe not as far. Are you planning that the tanks will go into the galley area? That could work well for the CG. If you're just moving them forward in the back deck it won't be enough from my experience. The safe bet is the full planning pod and you get the added benefit of more static flotation and better manors in swell etc. I believe the cons of a full planning pod are heavily outweighed by the pros. Totally your call. keep up the good work. Glad I'm not the only muppet playing with fiberglass in my free time.
I will have a good chat with the builder. I am going to leave the fuel tanks final placement for when the the pod is on. That way I can play with the balance point a little. When I talked to Lifetimer Boats they also recommended a full planning pod.
 
I will have a good chat with the builder. I am going to leave the fuel tanks final placement for when the the pod is on. That way I can play with the balance point a little. When I talked to Lifetimer Boats they also recommended a full planning pod.
Sounds good I firmly agree with lifetimer ;) Does the boat have saddle tanks and a center tank? A cool thing a friend told me is you can move the saddle tanks ahead to bump the CG forward. The Center tank is difficult to get more forward than the center bulkhead and would make headroom an issue. If it was me I would just make the center tank as big as possible from transom to center bulkhead and rely more on the full planning pod to give you more stern lift and play with the saddle tanks if you have them. I really wish I had made my saddle tanks longer and further forward that was an error on my part.

You will probably need a 30" shaft by going this route. Maybe not if they do that motor well thing in the image you picked. Either way, the math is easy but something to note as you most likely are already aware.
 
Looks good! I second moving the belly tank as far forward as possible. My 130L guy tank runs from 8” forward of stern to first bulkhead where step down is. If it were me doing it again it would be from rear bulkhead to cuddy bulkhead. Only problem is headroom if I do this, raising hardtop would be a must on the 20’2’’ hourston.
It would have to be one hell of a roof raise to accommodate that, and I think the boat's sexy lines would be compromised having to raise the roof about 8" minimum. not to mention it would need new window frames because as you raise the roof it pushes everything back. For reference i raised mine 4". Made my fair share of mistakes. I think your saddle tanks are further forward which is really nice other than sacrificing some of the gally pack space.

I mean the best solution is obviously a full hull extension :p not that difficult seeing how your pod is already fiberglass!

cannon balls in the bow are a great alternative..
 

Attachments

  • 20200229_151245.jpg
    20200229_151245.jpg
    220.4 KB · Views: 295
  • 20200306_213754.jpg
    20200306_213754.jpg
    336.3 KB · Views: 238
  • 20200308_201651.jpg
    20200308_201651.jpg
    320.8 KB · Views: 224
  • 20200310_204840.jpg
    20200310_204840.jpg
    380.8 KB · Views: 242
  • 20200321_092301.jpg
    20200321_092301.jpg
    395.2 KB · Views: 290
Not much to update. Just lots of sanding. I have been sanding and grinding for about 4 hrs now. I am getting the old fibreglass prepped for the new glass to lay down. Next week I hope to get the stringers in.
 
Another afternoon of sanding and some primer. Looks much better. I have decided I am going to fill the trim tab mounting holes and start with a fresh set up. Maybe tackle that on Thursday.
 

Attachments

  • 95AA47D0-4033-430E-AB77-7B86F24F4560.jpeg
    95AA47D0-4033-430E-AB77-7B86F24F4560.jpeg
    212.1 KB · Views: 168
  • E3644565-B41E-4AC9-96C5-D018554D0BBD.jpeg
    E3644565-B41E-4AC9-96C5-D018554D0BBD.jpeg
    257.9 KB · Views: 147
I have the original aluminum fuel tanks. I think they are about 25 gal each. If someone wants them make me an offer. They need to have a good cleaning inside as fuel sat in them for 8 years unused
 
I have the original aluminum fuel tanks. I think they are about 25 gal each. If someone wants them make me an offer. They need to have a good cleaning inside as fuel sat in them for 8 years unused
The tanks in my eagle are 100 liters each. Hope this helps
 
Here are a couple pictures of the fuel tanks I have for-sale. $100 each. They are 100L aluminum tanks from a 1981 206 Double Eagle.
 

Attachments

  • 68FBC06C-81E3-45D3-8737-721A77682935.jpeg
    68FBC06C-81E3-45D3-8737-721A77682935.jpeg
    369.5 KB · Views: 71
  • CE54B9FC-2A36-4F14-92C6-9CA0CBC353F1.jpeg
    CE54B9FC-2A36-4F14-92C6-9CA0CBC353F1.jpeg
    264.2 KB · Views: 63
  • CBEC44C8-01A1-462B-B754-5C3B25683FE7.jpeg
    CBEC44C8-01A1-462B-B754-5C3B25683FE7.jpeg
    277.2 KB · Views: 78
Back
Top