Seasport cabin floor project etc

[Sculpin]

That is one hell of a repair job. Looks like your serious and going about it the right way. I will be trying to get out fishing a couple of times in the afternoon next week if want to hop on. I hate to see a guy down and boatless. Let me know .

Cheers,
John

 

[MRWood]

Thanks for that John, appreciate it. I may have to take a rain check as I'm traveling next week. Would love to get out with you at some point soon.
Boatless In Nanoose, Lol

 

[Sculpin]

Thanks for that John, appreciate it. I may have to take a rain check as I'm traveling next week. Would love to get out with you at some point soon.
Boatless In Nanoose, Lol

Well maybe the week after. Hope you have a good trip. Offer is open anytime .

Keep at her man. Your doing a great job.

Cheers,
John

 

[terrin]

I looked back to your earlier pics and it looks like the tank was rubbing on the hull from that support on the gas tank giving way. That water is too high to come from the bilge it must have come through the floor somewhere. Maybe you can get a camera like they use in sewers between the foam and the floor to confirm you don"t have any issues further in the back. You need to try and figure out how the water got in there it could be as simple as a screw hole. From one of the pics it looked like the foam had a little dip there where the water probably settled and did its damage over time. As for the floor in the cabin it seems to me from the scum line in the gas tank area that you had water up to that level at some time which would have allowed it to fill through your hose holes right to the front and then it couldn't get back out completely. If water can get in it must be able to get out or problems will arise. Inspection hatches are a great idea.

 

[Fixit]

yikes, looks like a nightmare to me.... makes me wonder how many boats have problems like this that go un noticed

 

[MRWood]

Terrin...I suspect the water damage on the bilge sidewall and 2x8 came through screw holes from the hatch that covers the fuel tank and forms part of the deck between the engine cover and entrance way to the cabin. The border where the hatch meets the permanent deck was all sika flexed but i don't think the screws were. The foam was basically all dry except where it met the bilge sidewall. Water is a mysterious thing. The underside of the floor that I have left in is bone dry for as far as I can reach.

Fixit...you're right, problems like this can go un-noticed and I'm sure it's very common. The boat is a 92 so it has had time to get wet through things like screws that we not properly sealed when removing and putting back.

 

[albernifisher]

Nice to meet you last night Mike, looking forward to seeing the progress...

 

[MRWood]

Nice to meet you last night Mike, looking forward to seeing the progress...

THanks Gary for coming over and taking a look. It's always good to have someone that knows what they're doing give some direction. I appreciate it. I've cut the deck back all the way to the stern and taken out all of the foam. Took me most of yesterday to do it. Things look pretty good. I'll put up some more pics shortly.

 

[MRWood]

I have been tardy with my postings on the progress of my little turned big project. Since the last posting I have been very fortunate to have been able to meet and have Albernifisher come over and view my project (kinda like the cavalry coming to the rescue). He is incredibly knowledgeable and has given his time to help me get out of my predicament. Upon Gary's advice I decided to take out the deck on both sides in order to expose all of the stringers. Port side had a little less water damage on the bilge wall stringers but still a similar situation. Here is a picture of the starboard side stripped down and stringers cut to remove damaged sections. Also next pic is of the Port side.

 

[MRWood]

Gary gave me some homework to do before his next visit. I cut a scarf joint, which is an angled cut, on the stringers that need repairing. The scarf joint helps give a stronger more stable joint. Also had to grind down all of the edges and tabs while trying not damage anything beyond repair.

 

[MRWood]

On Gary's next visit we, actually he, cut out and matched the stringers from the 3/4" marine plywood that would be fit into the starboard side (one side at a time). He then glassed the one side of each of the two stringers. Here is a pic of the cut outs with the two layers of glass chopped strand matting.
My homework before his next visit was to glass the others sides the next day and to grind away the glass edges on the hull and tabs. Nothing too technical. Upon his return I received a passing grade, as in P in our old grading system.

 

[Redfisher]

Mike

Don't worry about the springs out off Ballenas right now, very few are over 20 lbs so you are missing little Job is looking great.

 

[MRWood]

Over the past few days we have been able to install both of the new stringer sections. The sections are fitted into place using pliogrip urethane structural adhesive. Then they are glassed in with multiple layers of tabbing, the joints had 4-5 layers of glass cutouts. It is way stronger than previous, I'm hoping bulletproof. Here are the pics of the stages. Last pic is where we are as of today, both stringers installed.

 

[MRWood]

Mike

Don't worry about the springs out off Ballenas right now, very few are over 20 lbs so you are missing little Job is looking great.

Hi Red, Heard some good reports from today, neighbour limited out. I see Jeffy on the Nanaimo thread also did really well. I'll get my chances soon

 

[Sir Reel]

When reattaching your floorboards you may want to drill oversized holes and fill with epoxy. Then screw into the epoxy. Otherwise you may get water intrusion again. I used a rubber gasket under the floorboard as well.
3M 3/4" wide self adhesive.
Maybe you want to have a drain plug into those spaces as well. Or an access hatch in the floorboard.

Great thread. Keep up the posts.

Dave

 

[MRWood]

Hi Sirreel....thank you for the tips they're all real good ideas, much appreciated.