Malibu Tyee Project

[Flybridge]

Hey all,
Long time follower, first time posting. Posting here as you all seem to have the knowledge needed about double eagles 176 and the malibu tyee.

I purchased this 1992 Malibu Tyee (hardtop) on a good deal (same hull as double eagle 176), thought it would be a great towable fisher. My current boat is 26' but not great for lakes or towing to desinations.

Anyway, this boat has a liner, everything appeared in pretty great shape, everything is solid including the floor, and the transom is solid (however I have now drilled some test holes and found it to have some moisture - not mulch yet though). As I do with all my boats after purchasing, I start digging deeper to clean and inspect.

1st thing I thought weird was nothing was installed with any sort of sealant except at the transom. So every screw I pulled from the deck had no sealant.

I went on and pulled the gas tank. I started tapping around, everything felt good until I tapped on the port stringer (adjacent to the gas tank). Drilled a inspection hole and found wet disenegraded wood. Feels like the original wood was 3/4" thick.

Normally I am pretty game for totally rectifiying the situation. But with this liner in place, there is no good way to replace the wood in this stringer without cutting out the floor liner. The stringer is about 10" tall, and the layup seems to be about 1/8" thick.

I'm looking for advice on how someone would go about fixing this without cutting out the floor. With the liner in place and adding structure to the boat, do I really need the wood in the stringer? or assume a "hollow stringer" is sufficent?

Also, the transom has moisture, still some life left. If I replaced the transom, I would be inclined to pod it since I'd have to cut out the splashwell. Anyone done this?

Thanks in advance!!!

 

[salmonkiller01]

Best way to repair is split the top from hull. That way you can get to everything without cutting up your liner

 

[Flybridge]

I agree. But there will be two parts that need to come apart.

1. The top - seems simple enough

2. The liner - which is structurally bonded “glued” to the hull. See attached photos.

Does anyone have experience separating the liner from the hull?

Ideally I’m looking for a reliable fix that doesn’t require separating these parts. If that’s not feasible or hasn't been done then I guess I’m in for more than I thought.

 

[Aquaholic]

Can you do a splint repair? Not sure if taking the inner liner out is worth it.

 

[Flybridge]

Can you do a splint repair? Not sure if taking the inner liner out is worth it.

Yes I could cut part of the liner out of the fuel tank area and splice onto the stringer.
I think my bigger concern is stopping the rot from expanding and having a larger issue on my hands.

Seems like the liner adds quite a bit of strength to the boat. A lot more than your typical plywood floor over stringers. If the stringer is bonded to the hull and liner, it seems like it makes an i beam effect. However the stringer layup being only about 1/8” thick seems a little light.

 

[Flybridge]

Started Digging into the transom. Port side was mush, but starboard side wet but intact. 3 layers of 1/2" ply that didnt seem to be bonded together.

Cut out the back 5" of the liner this morning to expose stringers. Stringers are wet everywhere. Core of the liner seems ok.

There are 4 stringers, 2 in the middle, and 2 outboard of that. Did grab photos of the stringers yet but I'll post a few of the transom.

Not sure how I'm going to be able to get to the stringers without pulling the liner. I really like the liner and want to save that. Has anyone pulled out the liner in these boats in 1 piece?

 

[Aquaholic]

Sorry man, that is too bad, prime fishing season is here and getting better.

Good thing the guys that went from Double Eagle didn't make the same build mistakes when they started Malibu Tyee.

 

[Flybridge]

Luckly I have my main boat sitting in the water and ready to fish. Bought this for a easily towable fisher and for when I want to save on some fuel. Hoping to have it ready by spring 2024.

Also been toying with the hardtop, want some more back deck space and the angle which the hardtop comes down isnt helpful with that. What do you all think? I think it looks decent.

But before I can start "upgrades" I need the basics to be sound. Also been researching fiberglass hull extension pod. Havent seen a lot of DE 176 or Tyees with pods. So if anyone has one, would be curious to know about what you did and how it rides.

 

[casper5280]

Like the chopped top but think I would leave the window the same.

 

[Flybridge]

Like the chopped top but think I would leave the window the same.

might need to mock that up to see how that looks. Would definitely be easier!

Well here is a nice look at the stringers near the transom. Moisture meter readings are high. If I squeeze them, you can see water.

I think the foam and the lack of limber holes has trapped the moisture in there. The way they built it was to put the foam in, and cover it with chop strand and resin, then they installed the liner on. In theory this seems like a good approach, but it leaves a small gap between the liner and the top of foam(covered in glass) which then condensates when it goes hot to cold. Foam doesn’t feel wet but when you push on it a bit of water comes out.

Also the glass on the backside of the stringers is paper thin. The side I drilled into in an earlier post is thicker.

The liner is really well bonded to the tops of stringers. This is a mess if I want to save the liner. It looks so nice. Would hate to cut it up!

 

[Cookie's Cutter]

I agree. But there will be two parts that need to come apart.

1. The top - seems simple enough

2. The liner - which is structurally bonded “glued” to the hull. See attached photos.

Does anyone have experience separating the liner from the hull?

Ideally I’m looking for a reliable fix that doesn’t require separating these parts. If that’s not feasible or hasn't been done then I guess I’m in for more than I thought.

 

[Flybridge]

If only it were that easy to bash a dock and have the liner pop out. Malibu did a really good job of sticking this liner to the top of the stringers. I cut out the recessed bilge and it was quite the project it get it out. My back still hurts.

 

[Flybridge]

my question is, what boat builder puts holes in one side of the stringer? This was on both of the middle stringers on the foam side.

Surprisingly the foam is actually pretty dry. The stringers in the back (middle two) are wet but not rotten yet. The port stringer was total mush. The starboard most stringer is dry and solid.

I was hoping cutting up a couple feet from the transom I would find dry wood. I did in some cases but not all.

Still trying to figure out how to save the liner without cutting it out

 

[Flybridge]

For my last update I cut out the splash well in entirety. I’m committed now. Going to glass in the transom and build a fiberglass hull extension/pod. Full disclosure I’ve never done this, but I think I can figure it out with brute force. My plan is to build the pod flush with the hull out to the lifting strakes, about 8” in from the edge of the hull. And build a full width swim platform.

I will say the two extra feet in the boat sure makes a difference

 

[Tightlines22]

Gotta wonder what the holes on the sides of the stringers were intended for. Almost looks like someone may have made test holes at some point.

 

[Flybridge]

Gotta wonder what the holes on the sides of the stringers were intended for. Almost looks like someone may have made test holes at some point.

I'm pretty certain they were from the factory. No visible signs of any patch back on the other side of the stringer. Cant come up with any reasonable assumptions as to why they are there.

 

[Flybridge]

Ok need some opinions. I am considering the two following Options for the pod, fiberglass extension.

First thing to note is this will add about 790-820 lbs of lift in the stern if my calculations are correct. The outboard is about 300lbs to be set back 28" from existing transom. My question is should I continue the lifting strakes or end the pod just before the lifting strakes. See attached option 1 and 2.

I guess option 3 would be to just make a pod to counteract the weight of the outboard. but I know the double eagle 176 and malibu tyee can sit a bit stern heavy, especially with a couple people fighting fish in the back.

@Brando, Ive taken a look at yours and it seems to work well, which would likley be closer to option 3.

On facebook BC fiberglass Double eagles owners group, Ive seen a 176 with full hull extension pod (full width) and it looks like the bow has a hard time lifting up.. not sure, just my observations, but I want it to still be able to lift up.

Any thoughts?

Also attached is a malibu tyee like mine on the water without a pod for reference. Photo cred: Dock BC (youtube).

 

[Brando]

You don’t need the pod to be too wide just enough to support the outboard. Extending the hull makes its difference when on plane the pod is similar to a big trim tab and helps create lift and increase the running surface.

 

[RiverBoy]

what outboard are you hanging off it out of curiousity?

 

[Flybridge]

what outboard are you hanging off it out of curiousity?

For the time being it'll be a 1993 Evinrude 115 2-stroke. 20" shaft length