Looking into upgrading my trailer for my 2005 Wellcraft Coastal 232. Looking for both new and used, but would prefer a slightly used one… boat is around 6300 lbs when half full with fuel, so thinking around a 8000 lb would be better suited for it. Current trailer is good for local hauling, but not so much for longer trips. Feel free to pm me as well. Thanks!
WTB: 8-9k lb. Trailer
- Thread starter David2
- Start date
I would also like to hear member’s thoughts about oil bath vs. grease, and any island recommendations for trailers… I’ve contacted Sherwood and Howich but not sure how many more dealerships sell trailers. Looking for tuff, roadrunner, ez-loader, and? Also, looking into the archives here, some have suggested that it’s not worth rebuilding (axles, wheels, frame …) but buying new. But the price of new these days… thanks for any insight!
Gallivanter
Crew Member
I’ve had a Tuff trailer for 5 years now and have put a lot of miles on it. No complaints , everything has come as advertised.
Gallivanter
Crew Member
Yes bought boat & trailer combo from Sherwood
The dog of the above mentioned brand is the rr. They use to be cheap pos which was alright, but now a 10k road runner is an expensive POS.
Highliner should be added to the list. Good galvanized units.
A modern Karavan is a decent trailer too. (be cautious and look for frame cracks buying the pre 2018 aluminum karavans)
Also note many of the used trailers you see available are surge units. Cost to swap them to electric / Hydro is expensive so some guys dump them once they've imported a US boat and just buy a new trailer. Your boat is heavy enough it'll need a elec/ hydro unit to be legal I believe (Think it's over 6500lbs?). Maybe someone else can clarify the number. Many guys don't care and run big boats on surge units for years but beware there could be some liability.
kaelc
Well-Known Member
I like loadrites 
Look at this post on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/share/SsjcHU8iU9h5zCUx/?mibextid=79PoIi
Look at this post on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/share/SsjcHU8iU9h5zCUx/?mibextid=79PoIiThx for that! He was on my list as well to contact after I hear back from Sherwood. They seem, from what I can gather on them, pretty reliable. One issue I seem to be having is to get an 8-9ktrailer, they are built for slightly longer boats. Most can be modified somewhat to fit, but wouldn’t be ideal.I like loadrites
I have a 2004 ez loader… other than needing new bunks soon and brakes down the road, it’s in okay shape. Just not rated enough for trips to Nootka, etc. Too small for my boat. We’ve kept the boat in the marina for the most part, but now want to do more road trips.
Buckethead905
Well-Known Member
To be legal you’ll need electric over hydraulic. Aside from the legalities, towing with EOH offers braking response that is worlds ahead of a surge brake setup and offers in-cab adjustability via a brake controller. Oil bath is the only way to go, I’ve owned both and anyone that tells you that bearing buddies are great should be monitored for a head injury. The owner of mid island hitch and trailer in Nanaimo told me the only reason he’s stayed in business all these years is thanks to bearing buddies. With oil bath hubs you never have to “repack” them, they have a sight window so you can verify immediately if there is any water intrusion, and when you need to service them you simply spin the cap off and let the oil drain out, spin the cap back on and fill it up with oil via the fill port. You can service a dual axle trailer in 15 mins, opposed to half a day removing the entire brake and hub assembly to pack bearings. The biggest issue with any water intrusion is the sealing surface on the spindle. Installation of a stainless speedi-sleeve and a high quality double-lipped seal is the only way to bulletproof that issue. With Grease you never know if there’s any water in the hub until it grenades on the side of the road. The next item would be brakes. Disc is absolutely the way to go. Kodiak stainless calipers and dacroment coated rotors will last 5 times any other setup and provide great brake performance and corrosion protection. Specing a trailer like this would come at cost but you would have years of hassle free towing and easy maintenance.
Thanks for your feedback! Read lots online about pros and cons of oil bath. Seems that the biggest concern is the possible leak and then losing all oil immediately as opposed to grease where you could pull over and repack. I like the easy visual check that oil baths allow, but if the right used trailer with grease came up, I’d be okay with that too! Thanks again for your thoughts on this!
Buckethead905
Well-Known Member
That’s not an issue whatsoever. If the oil leaks out you pull over and pack the bearing with grease the exact same way you would with a bearing that already had grease. It’s a win/win. If that’s a concern you pack a tube of grease with you and spare set of bearings and races. I have a spare set already packed in grease ready to go in the event something happens.
salmonkiller01
Well-Known Member
Vault hubs on tough trailers are great. Hybrid grease, turns to oil with heat. 10 years no maintenance
MikePA
Well-Known Member
I've been researching lately and from what I've read, the components used are in the cheap end of things vs other brands. No first hand experience though.
Weatherall
Member
I'll vouch for the Loadrite Trailers. Just picked up an 8400lb shiny new unit. Solid trailer. Maybe the jack that came with it isn't of the highest quality. I have to do a slight modifcation for a 24ft boat, but not too bad.
Good to hear… I’m in contact with a guy there and have an initial quote. Good customer support?
Weatherall
Member
If you're dealing with Norm in Langley, he's a real nice guy with lots of info. I don't know about company support but for a new trailer with all the right brakes and everything, it's the best price right now. You might find it a little cheaper from Defiance in Bremerton, WA but I'm not certain they are certified for Canada. It would be worth a look into. They have a few ads up on Seattle craigslist
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