Two Questions

Tiki35

Member
First, when trolling with a lure, and you want to check your gear say after 20-30 mins, do you trip the release and then reel in, and bring the downrigger in, or bring the downrigger in as you reel the line in. I have read conflicting information.

Second, I was fishing on Thursday. Two new MR3's, two 10'6" G. Loomis rods, my starboard rod I had to tighten the drag ridiculously too much to stop the reel from letting out line (so much so, a strike would have likely broken the line). While the port rod's drag was probably half has as much and the reel was not moving.

Hit me guys...
 
If I'm trolling with 'meat' I check it every 45 or so; spoons or rubber, every hour or so. With all the junk in the water here on the South Island it probably wouldn't hurt to reduce those time frames some.
I always pop the pin and reel it in.

Never used an MR3, sorry.
 
1.Bring up the line with downrigger. 2. What lb test of line are you using? It may be putting to much strain on the line if you are using over 25lb test main line, causing alot of blow back. Hope this helps,,,Tight Lines,................BB
 
Tiki
I had the same problem with my MR3 when I bought it. I took it to Islander and they put a new cork in it. It is great now.

Tips
 
I always release the line from the downrigger and let it come to the surface on it's own you never know you might get a strike on the way up so keep your eye on your rod.

Beacon

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Bring it up in the downrigger as then you dont put strain on the rod by poping it off I have seen many a rod bust on guys popping it off on the downriggers.

Last year saw a client of CODFISH's do it and watched as the rod blew up.Got to give credit to Dave all he did was laugh good on you as i would have been pissed.

So the rountine I do is swival my downrigger back hit the switch on the down rigger reel in the rod just was doing this with a guide on here a couple weeks back and on the way up pop of the rigger and I got a nice bbq spring!!!!

So now its right beside me clip,line and brings up all eel grass,weeds etc give it a good couple of shakes and most of the time the weeds flick off, unclip then with the clip in hand I clip it onto the wire so its not dangling or if you run long clip leaders hang it over for resetting.

check the bait, roll etc usually because you did bring up all that weed and eel grass prior there will be none on the flasher and bait (usually), reclip as it right there handy now because you have elimanted steps prior re send down.

I can burn through gear in about 2 mins this way.

I laugh at people out there who take all that other time out there fiddle F#$$^** around and there gear is out of water for ten mins and they have trolled tru the best part with no gear down. OR even better when both guys in the boat check gear at the same time and troll 300 yds with no gear what so ever in the water and they are usually the ones back at the dock saying they didnt touch one fish.

Simple keep the gear in the water as long as possable and as check as fast as possable you will get better results.


As for the drag thats one of the things you have to "live with " there famous for that,I just found out the other day too that them reels are only warrantied for 2 years and thats it!!!WTF
Thats a alot of money for a reel of that calibre with a short warrenty!!! just my thought.


good luck Wolf

Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
 
So often I see captains pick up the rod pop it out of the clip and hand the rod to their guest and have them reel it up. So much fun reeling in a flasher from 150-250 ft. So much easier to just turn on downrigger and let it do the work. If you are worried about your line it's just not strong enough. 30 lb. main should suffice.
 
I've got the same line creep issue with my mr3, just got it not to long ago, do I need to send it to Islander or can the shop I got it at give me a new cork?
 
take the rod out of the holder, drop the tip and reel the slack, give a quick lift with the rod and the line will pop from the clip, flick the rigger switch, start reeling, sometimes a fish will follow on that lift.

if i see salad on the rigger line, i assume there is salad further down and will pull everything. other wise the hardware gets looked at when i feel a change is warranted. you know superstitious behavior rules on which flasher/dodger, hoochie or spoon to swim :)
 
I always pop the rod and let it drift up, I have caught A LOT of fish on the drift up.

Leaving it on the downrigger comes up to fast and won't get as many strikes.

Another option is if you are fishing in deeper water, is drop your gear way down or to the bottom and pop it. That way it drifts the entire water column.
 
Only after I go through the main spot of the track will I bother to check my lines. I will pop one rod only and let it come up on it's own. I have hit many large springs doing this. It also helps identify the differant levels the fish may be foraging at. At the same time I will hit the downrigger button. Once the flasher is on top, I reel it in. Check for debris, clear the line and clips. Reset my bait, strip it out, reset the clips and send her down. Takes all of about 50 seconds from the time I start to reel in the line. I repeat for the other side once my first line is back down. Once that second line is complete I prepare to make a turn and double right back over the hotspot.

Islanders on downriggers = line creep. Just have to put up with it.
 
Thanks guys,

So I guess we're kinda of divided. I would rather let the downrigger do the work personally. I could really see breaking the rod tip as a possibility. By the way, I use 25lb test on my main line.

And the best most expensive reel on the planet are known for line creep. How lovely. I am in Nanoose Bay. How would I see about sending it to Islander to replace the cork?

After paying that much, put up with it? I'll sell it before I do that.
 
Yeah, I experience the line creep on my MR3 also. The nice thing is that the drag is so buttery smooth, that you can easily adjust it once a fish is on.

Highliner

www.salmonboats.ca
 
Yeah I wouldn't put up with either. No islanders on my saltwater rig. All HMX and shimano for me. No hassles worry free kickem around sort of thing. I'll save my Islander and Sage gear for hands on river/fly fishing situations only.;)

HL
 
Too many rods are broken from trying to remove the main line from the clip (release). Let the DR work for you... There's no difference between releasing the line from the clip and allowing the DR to work. If a fish is going to hit, it's going to hit regardless.
If a fish strikes and fails to hook itself, then allow the gear to travel to the surface. Often the fish will follow or re-strike.

Imagine if you are tangled on the release... Even further cause to simply allow the DR to work.

Better check with the rod manufacture on expensive graphite rods. More than likely if you told them you were trying to release the line off the clip, you might run into issues on warranty if the rod breaks.

Water salad... Everyone hates this. Keep in mind the hydrodynamics of your line in the water while trolling.. You are going to have mainline blow back too. Unlike DR cable or Spectra, mono's back back off the rod is more pronouce. Therefore, it creates more of an elongated arc back to the release. Water salad will not be able to travel down your cable or line past the mid-way point due to the hydrodynamics. It will stay in place about mid-level or wherever the line starts to bend back towards the release. So don't fret it and leave the gear in the water until a fish is hooked or it is time to check the gear. We've put plenty of fish in the boat that were COVERED with salad... Kinda like one of those bass fishing shows.

To keep it off the DR wire, simple add a 1 or 2 ounce weight to the end of a Scotty line retriever. This will keep the end underwater and salad will collect on the surface before traveling downward. For the rods, you can always remove the rods from the holders and work the rod tips around the stuff.

Just remember, you can't catch fish if you're not in the water!

www.CaptainDownriggins.com
 
I like to keep things simple as well, shimano gt's for me, with fresh Berkley big game 25lb mainline and annual maint. They have worked flawlessly for 10 years,I have never broken my lamiglas rod ( my fav for about 20 years) but I have seen any brand graphite rods shatter into 3 or more pieces on the boat and even in the store, I feel you have to know your release clip and how hard to set the trigger, this can bust any rod or it will trip for no reason, ( only had 1 hit today) and keep the sun tan oils and the greasey chicken you had for lunch off your hands, this can render a release clip useless, as I personally experienced myself several times, just my 2 beans
 
I always let the DR do the work. A lot easier on the the rod, the line and me. For me, nothing worse than spending time fighting the flasher and letting all the kelp or grass slide down on down. My fishing partners seem to love to pop it off, let all the crap that's accumulated at the release clip slide down the line and foul the flasher, chovy or what ever. By using the rigger I can get it to the boat, check it and get it down in a 1/4 the time or less it takes my friends. I know the argument is that some fish might be caught as it comes to the surface but I think more fish are caught when the bait or lure gets back down to the correct depth fast.

Slabby

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this is one of those questions where Id have to say, get out there and get your own experience. Youll learn just as I did and most others on this site, jees, whats next, do you want us to set the hook for ya too? come on...

nootkalasttrip015.jpg

Fill the dam tub!
 
I agree with those that say to be gentle and yet pop it off the rigger and reel in. I've got 5 Chinook this year while reeling in and lost a couple more. Can't say I've ever got that many reeling in for one year before, but it coule be due to how deep we've been fishing.
I just got a 19.5lb Chinook two days ago this way.
 
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