Trailer Brake Issues.

Jencourt

Jencourt

Well-Known Member
Hi folks:
I have a 2010 road runner tandem axle with hydraulic surge drum brakes. I do not have the fresh water flush system. I use it to carry my 21 trophy with outboards.

After about 8-10 times of use, the front port side brake was stuck on and I could not get the wheel to roll. After backing up and snapping it forward a few times it let go.This happened a couple more times and then I took it in and had it looked at. Nothing could be found but they did back the adjuster off and it was good for another 4-6 times.

The last time I used it it would not roll at all. I have a 3/4 ton diesel standard and I could not move it forward or back. I jacked it up to find both wheels stuck hard on the port side.The starboard side was free an normal.After checking fluid and brake lines I backed the adjusters all the way off and was able to get it rolling again. I disconnected the line from the surge cylinder and reservoir rendering the brakes useless. This got me home. I have been back to the mechanics and they are suggesting a change to disc brakes.

This is expensive to the tune of 13-15 hundred. I am wondering what experience and suggestions you all may have with this kind of problem. Any info would be much appreciated.

Thanks again (in advance) for your feedback.

Ray
 
Sounds like your actuators are sticking on. Perhaps you should talk to Mike at Road Runner and tell him your problem and see if they have changed actuators because of problems. You can buy a seal kit for the actuators and maybe they are dirty. Did you change your brake fluid every year? If not -brake fluid is like a magnet for moisture and I'm betting there is a little corrosion in your actuators.
 
Changed mine last year to Kodiak Discs, hardest part was getting the old drums off. Cdn prices were almost double so I ordered the parts to a Mail Outlet in Pt Roberts. You need to change the coupler as well and they recommend stainless brake lines as flexy lines are not designed to handle the higher pressures associated with discs. Was rather easy to do myself. Imagine having to get one of those seized drums off at the side of the road. You will be happy once you make the change.
 
spring fever said:
Sounds like your actuators are sticking on. Perhaps you should talk to Mike at Road Runner and tell him your problem and see if they have changed actuators because of problems. You can buy a seal kit for the actuators and maybe they are dirty. Did you change your brake fluid every year? If not -brake fluid is like a magnet for moisture and I'm betting there is a little corrosion in your actuators.
Click to expand...

From what I am hearing I think you would be correct about the actuators. It sounds like they get corroded and then wen they come out they do not retract all the way. I will give road runner a call.

Did not know to change brake fluid so you are probably onto something there.

Thanks.
 
Jencourt said:
Hi folks:
I have a 2010 road runner tandem axle with hydraulic surge drum brakes. I do not have the fresh water flush system. I use it to carry my 21 trophy with outboards.

After about 8-10 times of use, the front port side brake was stuck on and I could not get the wheel to roll. After backing up and snapping it forward a few times it let go.This happened a couple more times and then I took it in and had it looked at. Nothing could be found but they did back the adjuster off and it was good for another 4-6 times.This is pretty common for csurge brakes with drums.
The last time I used it it would not roll at all. I have a 3/4 ton diesel standard and I could not move it forward or back. I jacked it up to find both wheels stuck hard on the port side.The starboard side was free an normal.After checking fluid and brake lines I backed the adjusters all the way off and was able to get it rolling again. I disconnected the line from the surge cylinder and reservoir rendering the brakes useless. This got me home. I have been back to the mechanics and they are suggesting a change to disc brakes.

This is expensive to the tune of 13-15 hundred. I am wondering what experience and suggestions you all may have with this kind of problem. Any info would be much appreciated.

Thanks again (in advance) for your feedback.

Ray
Click to expand...
Pretty common fore surge brakes with drums. Mine can get a layer of rust during the time that it's parked at the ramp and not turn for me. I just carry a two pound hammer with me and a 14" long 5/8" bolt. I have spoke type rims so I slide the end of the bolt thru the gaps in the rims until it contacts the drum and give it a good smack with the hammer. I go all around the rim that way and the drum and brake shoe free up. I used to take the time to back the brakes off but this works better and faster.
Dave
 
Jencourt Changed my ezloader drum brakes over to disc last winter, all parts including disc brake actuator delivered to my door on Vancouver Island was $650.00 . Really easy to change over.

Esora
 
I've got a 2002 ezloader with surge,single axle, replaced brakes 2 yrs ago with all new backing plate kits..the acuator started to weep on one side,so did both sides... just a thought??...how are you parking your boat trailer?? do you back "UP HILL" into you usual parking spot?? if so after unhooking look at the surge hitch to see if it has released the pressure on your brakes,if not your brakes could/will be "ON" while your parked for how ever your boats sits till next time out...
 
Yes..as Sf552 says....make sure your brakes are not left 'on' while parked. If you need to, while still connected, put a block in front of a trailer tire and pull the rig forward, just a bit, to ensure your actuator is not applying pressure. Otherwise things can seize up under pressure.
 
Hey thanks folks! Some good info starting to add up here. I will be pulling a wheel or four tomorrow to see what it all looks like behind the drum. After tapping the bearing buddies out what is the best way to put them back in? I am thinking a block of wood and a big hammer?? As far as I know they are just pressed in. Yes??

Ray
 
Yeah Ray that's right just inspect them for burrs before putting them on. While you have the wheels off make sure you open the adjusters as far as they will go and coat them with never-seize before running them back in-also look at all the springs-doesn't hurt to LIGHTLY coat them and anything else that looks like it moves or pivots. With the exception of the drum and shoes. LOL Mike
 
the wheel cylinders on drum brakes and the callipers on disc brakes can have a piston (s) that can seize in the bore. As shoes or pads wear the pistons in both systems have to come farther outside of the cylinder to keep the braking material close to the drum or rotor. The exposed part of the piston is what can and will corrode, even stainless. Once corroded bad enough the piston will seize or won't retract back into the cylinder far enough to release the brake. With both systems you will get longer calliper or wheel cylinder life by replacing the pads or shoes before they are completely worn out.
 
profisher said:
the wheel cylinders on drum brakes and the callipers on disc brakes can have a piston (s) that can seize in the bore. As shoes or pads wear the pistons in both systems have to come farther outside of the cylinder to keep the braking material close to the drum or rotor. The exposed part of the piston is what can and will corrode, even stainless. Once corroded bad enough the piston will seize or won't retract back into the cylinder far enough to release the brake. With both systems you will get longer calliper or wheel cylinder life by replacing the pads or shoes before they are completely worn out.
Click to expand...

I am also in the process of cleaning up my drums and shoes (same problem). I have cleaned up the pistons and gently emery papered the bores what should I coat the pistons with to help stop them seizing?
 
Don't think you can coat them with anything-don't forget the backside is bathed in brake fluid-maybe a light coat of never seize in front of the seal-not sure that will work but won't hurt. Your best bet is to flush your entire brake system with new fluid-I do it every year but every second minimum. gets rid of the moisture in the fluid and stops corrosion
 
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