Trailer brake corrosion advice

SalmonDreamer

Well-Known Member
I have a 19ft boat with single axle surge brakes. Multiple times the cylinders have corroded and seized. I launch in the salt multiple times per year. I rinse each trip with fresh water but this keeps happening almost yearly.

My question is would you:

1. Switch to disc brakes with stainless steel rotors. Or

2. Switch cylinders, hubs and bearings every year at end of season as prevention?

Other options?

Thanks in advance.
 
I spray everything liberally except the pads and drums, including inside the cylinder boots, with a good corrosion inhibiting product: fluid film, LPS 3, CRC corrosion inhibitor, you pick. It's not important which one. Use bearing buddies and keep them full. Repeat the spraying every year if you can.

I also spray all the non galvanized parts of the trailer, brake line fittings, lug nuts and studs, springs, nuts and bolts, everything. It really helps keep the rust away.

I changed one wheel cylinder in 5 years before having to do a total brake replacement this past summer. Only had one bad bearing, the other 3 are all going on 6 years. All salt water use, never rinsed the brakes.
 
I am firm believer in option 2. Then everything comes apart, as it should. Few hour job. Just take everything apart and put back together. Including wheel cylinders. Then adjust and bleed brakes. Only cost is grease and grease seals.
Having just spent $1400 on a trailer brake and bearing refit on my old EZ-Loader, could you go into some detail? I have discs on my trailer, however, but am looking for the ultimate annual process that will keep things working well and reduce the parts & replacement costs...
 
If you’re converting to discs? I’d take the calipers off and lube up the slide pins and repack the bearings. Maybe keep an eye on the brake bleeders. Good to make sure they can be used, if need be.
 
Stainless Calipers with Coated Rotors. Double lipped hub seals riding on a stainless wear sleave inside the axle, Bearing Buddy on the outside. A good quality marine axle grease (calcium sulfonate). Infared thermometer in the tow vehicle and check regularly.
 
I can't believe how many people back there tow vehicle wheels into the water, never mind the trailer wheels. That can't be good. Never mind the idiots that purposely drive along the seawall during a storm surge.
 
If you’re converting to discs? I’d take the calipers off and lube up the slide pins and repack the bearings. Maybe keep an eye on the brake bleeders. Good to make sure they can be used, if need be.
My dual axle trailer has discs now...I generally am ok with my local shop doing an annual service, but want to identify what I can do short of doing the brake and bearing disassembly myself - the idea about spraying the springs etc with Fluid Film strikes me as sensible. That kind of thing. I rinse every time I can, and use Salt Away as well, spraying a mix out of a pump up sprayer, particularly if I launch and can't rises where i am parking.
 
I’d fluid film all the brake line fittings and springs, for sure. A few pumps of grease, after you trailer it, when things are warm helps too. Only as much as your bearing buddies will allow. Don’t forget the tongue jack and winch too.
 
I can't believe how many people back there tow vehicle wheels into the water, never mind the trailer wheels. That can't be good. Never mind the idiots that purposely drive along the seawall during a storm surge.
A bit of a derail here but some people don't have a choice, depending on the slope of the ramp and/or the type of trailer/boat combination they have. I stop going to the one in Esquimalt for this very reason. At certain tide elevations I would be almost halfway up the wheels to get the boat off of the trailer. Even then it required a bump. No issues at Pedder or Cheanuh, it just floats off.
 
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