Damn surge brakes

chille51

Well-Known Member
So I thought I was doing responsible thing when I bought my boat and trailer a few months ago, adding surge disc brakes to a trailer that had none before. I haven't weighed my rig (Arima Sea Ranger 17), but based on weigh ins on the Arima forums I am probably rights around 3000 lbs. Figured why risk it, do it right. So on went a new set of Kodiac discs and a Demco actuator. Now, when I talked to the ship to see what my options were, I specifically mentioned that my regular parking space involves an uphill reverse. No problem, I was assured, the solenoid cuts pressure to the brakes when your reverse lights come on. Well, those with more experience than me can probably tell where this is going. I've backed it up the driveway twice now, brakes locked up both times. A little forward roll and quickly into reverse helped a couple times, but inconsistent. I've had to put it in 4 low both times, which is obviously bad foe the trailer AND the truck. So that needs to stop.

Doing some reading I think I have a grasp on the problem... foot is on the brake when I put it in reverse, so pressure doesn't release. So my options appear to be:

1) manually lock it out somehow when doing the driveway
2) get a different solenoid that releases pressure back to the master cylinder reservoir
3) reverse the 7 pin plug and turn on the headlights apparently? Seems sketchy.

I will do #2 ultimately, but even once I have I feel like it would be good to have a mechanical lock out in case of electrical or solenoid failures. Make sense?

So... long winded explanation for a simple question. My Demco actuator does not appear to have a stock mechanical lockout, or at least nothing mentioned I have seen. I have been looking at it and trying to figure out where I can jam a pin or 2x4, or drill a hole, and have 2 options. But maybe they are both wrong, could someone idiot check my work?

Here is the parts blowup.

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I think if I put some sort of pin through the hole on the side in this photo, that would do it?

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Alternately, fabricate something that slides up around this rod in front of the spring in this photo?
 

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That looks like same location as the Titan one I had on my old trailer. Try putting a bolt or screwdriver through the hole and see if it stops the coupler from moving forward. It is the forward movement that engages brakes.
 
Have you got the 5 pin wiring harness with your tow vehicle’s back up light circuit connected to the solenoid contact on your trailer?
 
The weight of the boat pushing down toward the truck active the brakes, but at 3000lbs should be be easy to back up even with the brakes slightly engaged
 
You can put something through that hole you show in the picture to lock it. They do not make a pin for that actuator from what I know.
 
The weight of the boat pushing down toward the truck active the brakes, but at 3000lbs should be be easy to back up even with the brakes slightly engaged
I wish they were slightly engaged. They are fully engaged. I spun the tires on the tow vehicle and slid the butt end a foot sideways pushing against it. It's not a minor incline... hill all the way up and I have to swing it to the right on the incline too. That said, befor the brakes were added to the trailer it pushed up no problem in 2wd.20230626_160019 (1).jpg
 
You can put something through that hole you show in the picture to lock it. They do not make a pin for that actuator from what I know.
That's what I was hoping. Will see what I can find that is that shape. Maybe two bolts next to eachother?
 
Have you got the 5 pin wiring harness with your tow vehicle’s back up light circuit connected to the solenoid contact on your trailer?
Yes, the solenoid engages fine when I go in reverse on level ground, or back down the boat ramp. It's the backing up hill that is the problem. From my bit of research there are two kinds of solenoid - the one I have just basically blocks pressure from being applied but doesn't release any pressure that is already there - for instance from standing on the brake on my steep butt driveway when I pop it in reverse. There is a different type that releases the pressure back to the master cylinder reservoir, which I guess I'll have to get installed. If I had known it was an option when I first had the work done I would have asked for it to start with.
 
Yes, the solenoid engages fine when I go in reverse on level ground, or back down the boat ramp. It's the backing up hill that is the problem. From my bit of research there are two kinds of solenoid - the one I have just basically blocks pressure from being applied but doesn't release any pressure that is already there - for instance from standing on the brake on my steep butt driveway when I pop it in reverse. There is a different type that releases the pressure back to the master cylinder reservoir, which I guess I'll have to get installed. If I had known it was an option when I first had the work done I would have asked for it to start with.
In that case, I’d go with the big screwdriver in the slot behind theDemco logo in the picture you posted above.
 
I have a Highliner Boat trailer with surge disk brakes with a Titan hitch. It is for a 21 ft walk around. When I purchased the trailer many years ago I was also told that when I back up the trailer brakes would disengage. Well that did not occur and I also have a slight incline to my driveway. I just put a large bolt in the hitch to prevent the surge piston from engaging. Works like a charm. I have been doing that for about 6 years now.
 
I have a Highliner Boat trailer with surge disk brakes with a Titan hitch. It is for a 21 ft walk around. When I purchased the trailer many years ago I was also told that when I back up the trailer brakes would disengage. Well that did not occur and I also have a slight incline to my driveway. I just put a large bolt in the hitch to prevent the surge piston from engaging. Works like a charm. I have been doing that for about 6 years now.
Does your not disengage even on level ground? Like do you have to use the pin all the time backing up, or just on an incline? Mine seems to be just the hill that trips it up.
 
From what I recall it does not really disengage even on level ground. I use the pin all the time now so that is why I say 'from what I recall'. I use the pin even when backing the boat up at the launch.
 
I know this is not the model you have but shown below is a Demo DA91. The lockout pin and tab installs in a similar locations as the hole shown in your photo. I would just make up a pin or bolt with a tab welded on to fill the gap between the two pieces when they are pulled apart. I have a different actuator on my EZ loader trailer. Same issue with locking up when backing uphill into my driveway. I stop on an uphill incline just before I get home so that the actuator is fully open/extended and install a tab designed for my particular actuator.

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I know this is not the model you have but shown below is a Demo DA91. The lockout pin and tab installs in a similar locations as the hole shown in your photo. I would just make up a pin or bolt with a tab welded on to fill the gap between the two pieces when they are pulled apart. I have a different actuator on my EZ loader trailer. Same issue with locking up when backing uphill into my driveway. I stop on an uphill incline just before I get home so that the actuator is fully open/extended and install a tab designed for my particular actuator.

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Thanks! Welding is not within my wheel house but I think I get the concept and can probably MacGyver something.
 
Thanks! Welding is not within my wheel house but I think I get the concept and can probably MacGyver something.
How did this turn out? Just came across this conversation. I hang a galvanized bolt near the opening where the surge can be blocked. Fastened it on by choking the bolt with zip tie that holds another zip tie that creates a loop for a bit of wire which runs to an anchor point.
 
How did this turn out? Just came across this conversation. I hang a galvanized bolt near the opening where the surge can be blocked. Fastened it on by choking the bolt with zip tie that holds another zip tie that creates a loop for a bit of wire which runs to an anchor point.
I just used a bolt this season, which helped but wasn't perfect. As the slot is not totally round it still left a little room for the actuator to move. So I got less braking I think, but not full disable. Its on the off season list to come up with something that is a more perfect fit.
 
Solenoid should stop brakes from engaging, I back up a very steep hill and no issues ever. Check your ground and power to solenoid.
My backing up consists of stopping pointing down hill the reversing 150-200’ up hill
 
Solenoid should stop brakes from engaging, I back up a very steep hill and no issues ever. Check your ground and power to solenoid.
My backing up consists of stopping pointing down hill the reversing 150-200’ up hill
I have to agree, I'd check the power supply. I took mine off my backup lights, ran that to a little polarized plug and added a ground on the truck nearby, put in a matching plug on the trailer side that runs to the trailer lockout solenoid. With mine the truck end of the wire used to hang naked there and eventually shorted on the hitch or something, causing the backup light fuse to blow. ( I obviously have the hot running to the naked terminal, bad idea, the other terminal is covered with rubber... would have been better to protect the hot lead). After that I started putting a dummy plug over the truck plug end to 'capture' the hot lead when not in use on the trailer and secured the dummy on the truck lead so it can go on and off as needed without getting lost. I think the solenoid makes an audible click when it activates, so maybe one could just run a battery to it and listen for the click when powered up.??
 
I just used a bolt this season, which helped but wasn't perfect. As the slot is not totally round it still left a little room for the actuator to move. So I got less braking I think, but not full disable. Its on the off season list to come up with something that is a more perfect fit.
I think a piece of nylon plastic would do the job, get the right thickness cut it to the proper width. drill a hole in it, mount nearby.
 
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