Surge break help

[hambone]

I had to pull apart a partially seized surge disc brake yesterday. After having a look, I'm pretty confident the only problem is that the hydraulic cylinder (my terminology could be way off) that compresses the brake pads isn't backing away fully, leaving the brake partially engaged. This results in some rapid heat build up and obviously needs to be fixed.

My goal was to back of the pads so that I could drive the trailer into a shop without it getting red hot. To do this I had to fully remove the whole unit and compress the cylinder in a vise, which unfortunately means of the brake fluid has been lost.

My question is.... Obviously the line needs to be bled to get brake fluid back into that particular brake, but can I drive the trailer knowing there are still 3 working brakes? Will the air in the system only effect the one brake? Can I damage it by not bleeding the line?

Thanks for any advice or suggestions....

 

[hambone]

I should probably add that I'm working on this alone and there's a boat on the trailer which makes it a little difficult. I'm skinny and I still can barely get under there and look around. Also bleeding the line will be impossible alone I would think.

 

[hambone]

Ohh.... And the title of this thread should be surge brake help. Lol

 

[spring fever]

Won't do any damage but I doubt you will have much for brakes in the other three. I would put a brass plug in the line with the defective brake so it can't come on and stick. Then you could get her to a shop. I might add that having a couple of plugs with you is a good thing if on the road-then you can isolate any brake-open the bleeder and take the pressure off the stuck brake. Lordco has them.

 

[Brando]

is this a disc or drum setup? Sounds like you need a new wheel cylinder or caliper.

 

[hambone]

Thanks guys.. Surge disc brakes.

 

[Hookin'up]

you can also get 1 man bleeders from lordco or use a piece of hose from the bleeder screw into a bottle partially filled with brake fluid make sure the end of the hose stays submersed in the fluid in the bottle so when you are pumping the hose is sucking fluid and not air,
you can also sometimes lower the trailer tongue all the way down and loosen the bleeder on the affected caliper, let them sit for a while and they will gravity bleed, make sure to keep the master cylinder full

 

[Rayp]

I might be having similar problem with mine so I am very interested to hear what those experience in this field may have to say but I do not want to jump the thread.

 

[CIVANO]

I had one caliper on a disc break seize up on the rotor and cause the bearings to over heat. I removed the caliper and put a 2x4 piece of wood between the pads, wired the caliper to the axle with the piece of wood secured with wire and the other 3 brakes worked fine until I could replace the rotor and caliper. Without the piece of wood the brake fluid will run out when braking with the caliper removed. When bleeding make sure to bleed both bleed screws on the caliper. If they are not evenly bled, the caliper can jam.

 

[hambone]

Some great advice... Thanks guys.