Trailer Brakes Question

hbpaints

hbpaints

Crew Member
Hey guys, I have a question that I'm hoping one of you may have an answer for regarding trailer brakes... Electric over Hydraulic Disc
And I apologize in advance for the lengthy post...

1. Identification of Trailer brakes ? Looking at the pictures, "Kodiak" disc brake system is the obvious answer, and yes, the trailer does have (confirmed with wheel removal) the Kodiak 4 Wheel Disc Brake kit installed on it)

However, the "pump/reservoir" unit.... I cannot identify or find any reference to it on the Kodiak Website? So I don't think it's part of the system, but it has no identifying marks on it... Any ideas from the pictures? Anyone have one of these units?

Current issue with the unit is:
1. 12v applied through hot wire activates "pump", but does not move brake calipers/pads (ie. no braking on trailer)
2. Reservoir is currently down in fluid (appears maybe at 70% full) I am assuming Dot 3 or Dot 4 to fill but unsure... (No manual or identification for reservoir)

brake1.jpgbrake2.jpg
brake3.jpg

I don't have a lot of experience with Electric over Hydraulic brakes, so maybe I'm missing something... If I manually pull the lever on the controller, I get a 12v signal to trailer, pump activates on trailer but there is ZERO stopping power at wheels... Even when Brake controller is on "10" or max...

2. I've searched the internet for an answer, but no-one really explains and all of the notes talk about the "Factory" Trailer brake connections...

Anyhow... again... on the same 2005 Dodge Ram 3500...

As mentioned, currently has an aftermarket REESE Trailer brake actuator mounted in the cab, connected to the "factory" Dodge plug under the dash... This has served me well for the last 10 yrs or more, but now that the truck is getting older, it is starting to have some electrical gremlins. I have had to re-run a 12v hot wire from 12v power source (battery) to the brake controller to get it to power up...
1. When I push my truck brake pedal, the trailer brake actuator does not activate ?
2. No signal out to 7 pin trailer plug.
3. Trailer lights all work properly, signals and brake lights...

So... I have read that there are some electrical issues that may cause problems with the factory plug under the dash and I am hoping to bypass this plug...

However.... I am having a heck of a time locating the "Brake Switch wiring color codes".... I have what I think is the factory brake switch up under the dash, 6 or 7 wires coming out of it, mounted to hinge point of brake pedal assembly... I found the part online to replace, but they don't give a wiring harness color code...

Testing with both a voltmeter and a test light, NONE of the 6 or 7 wires have 12v when brake pedal is depressed... I just cannot figure this out... Unless there is a separate Brake "switch" off the pedal somewhere I'm missing?

Anyone know which wire (color code) to tap into to get 12v signal when brake pedal is depressed? Or if I'm even looking at the correct plug?
Or, better yet, anyone here not used the factory plug to hook up a electric brake controller in they're 3rd gen dodge?


Basically I want to eliminate the factory wiring as a possible problem and hardwire the controller, seeing if maybe my controller is toast....

Thanks for any advice or tips...
 
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Sounds like the controller to me
 
Those brake actuators eventually just stop. You’ll get 5-7 years use out of them. I’ve been thru a couple on my Roadrunner. $700 to replace. Not cheap.
 
Thanks for the replies guys...

Here's a follow up question, and maybe I've found my reasons...

Brake controllers... I have read, that there are differences in them???

I may need to replace my current "Drawtite" controller with one that is capable of Electric AND "electric over Hydraulic" control capabilities...

Is this a thing? If so... Boy... I'm out of date...

This will be the first trailer I have owned with Electric over Hydraulic... all my other trailers are Electric only....
 
To me that looks like a Dexter EOH unit, but reading the top of the actuator it says it’s a surge break system. Might want to look into that a little further. The pump running might just be the “lockout” solenoid for backing the trailer uphill. C1D82585-B7BA-455D-B684-2AF6C8CA3164.jpeg
 
Buckethead905 said:
To me that looks like a Dexter EOH unit, but reading the top of the actuator it says it’s a surge break system. Might want to look into that a little further. The pump running might just be the “lockout” solenoid for backing the trailer uphill.
Click to expand...

I would interpret that portion of the decal advising what to do IF the system is using surge brakes.
 
Do you have a friend with a new truck with a brake controller I would have them plug in and see if the brakes are working with the truck

On the dodges under the dash the brake controller has a standard plug for the harness you can get a new harness and controller for like 130$ for a decent one off amazon

If you can manually trigger your electric hydraulic pump but it dosnt do much to apply the brakes I would first visually check to see if they are moving then bleed the whole system. If you don't know how long the brake fluids been in the system it absorbs moisture since it is hydrophobic and could possibly seize up the calipers everything you pop the cap and if it's not 100% sealed moisture enters the system.

Don't be scared of getting brake fluid on ground when flushing just use a hose and rinse it off
 
Try bleeding the brakes to see if there is just air in the lines...start with farthest from actuator and move closer...you will need someone to activate the pump by pulling the emergency switch on the trailer...just make sure you don't let the reservoir go dry or you will have to start from over from the beginning. By cracking the 1st bleeder you will know if it is in fact pumping. If not...air is not the problem.
 
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Lots of testing over the last couple days... Determined issue to be the Dexter Actuator is not working properly or is the wrong size (pressure) for the Disc Brake application... Pulled the breakaway and pump starts and runs but brakes do not apply... Lines have been bled, fluid comes out, but not in a stream at what I would expect at 1000psi... more of an "arc"...

Currently a Dexter 1000PSI actuator... Pump runs and pressure builds, but not enough to move brake pistons... So either bypassing or ??
When I called Dexter Tech support, they said the 1000PSI units were meant for DRUM brake applications, so I am assuming the trailer originally had drum brakes. Previous owner literally towed the boat a block or less to put it in the water do I suspect he didn't even realize they weren't working...

So... I'm going to order a new 1600 psi actuator, but not sure which one to get... Dexter? Hydrastar? etc...
Anyone have any experience with either in a disc brake application and have recommendations?

Thanks in advance...


Oh, and I gave up on troubleshooting my towing setup on my dodge. I went and bought a 2011 F-350 instead... Couldn't pass up the deal... :D:DNow I have to figure out if the factory brake switch will work with Electric over Hydraulic application or if I need to put a new controller in it's place... lol
 
i've heard the disc brake calipers get stuck if they arent the stainless steel. That may be your problem also as no matter the pressure the pads wont move. Its a very common issue.
 
Go to E-Trailer.com and get the Hyrastar unit for disc brakes...I bought that one from them. Tuff trailers use that one on their new units. I bought the complete kit with battery backup and watertight junction box that mounts on the trailer near the pump unit. They also have great videos explaining installations.
 
Second on the hydrastar, easy to install and a good product. I wouldn’t say the dexter unit is defective if it only puts out an “arc”. When the you bleed the system it doesn’t come out any faster than you’ve mentioned, the power is in its ability to build pressure, which is not gained through velocity of the fluid. If you go to the hydrastar website there is a compatibility chart that will show you if your factory brake controller will work.
 

That little box on the left side of the photo is the;

HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Adapter Module for Ford and Chevy Brake Controllers Item # HBA-CAM​


This device allows you to use your in-cab stock factory brake controller. Depends on the year tho. Some years don’t need it. I’ll tell you my experience with my 2013 Chev. I wanted to use my factory controller. I installed the HBA-CAM. After a year the factory controller stopped working. It’s apparently a common problem. After market they say are way better. I installed a Tekonsha. Never an issue since.
 
Why don't you thread a gauge onto your pump and confirm that's the cause instead of just tossing parts at a problem?
 
My kit didn't have the module on lower left...everything else came in my kit along with the waterproof colour coded wire junction box which makes for easy and tidy installation. I bought a Tekonsha cab controller separately from a Canadian online vendor.
 
Make sure you bleed the actuator first before anything else. Once that's fine then go to the brakes. Air compresses so you gotta make sure the actuator is bled first. I've just been through exactly the same and once the actuator was bled it moved fluid into each wheel cylinder hard and fast.
 
Here is the kit explained in video from E-trailer Click on watch on Youtube
 
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Oops sorry didn't see you may have a mismatched actuator, if that's the case all the bleeding in the world won't do much for those pistons. You can move the caliper pistons easily as in they're not seized?
 
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