Seastar kicker tie bar-'-- cable replacement

[Sharphooks]

I have a Seastar kicker tie bar that has given me problems ever since it was installed. My guess is the internal tube was not properly lubed with grease during the original installation. After one season it froze up (at the worst possible time....just after launching and I was left with a powered up main engine that couldn't be steered.)

I managed to straighten out the bent stainless cable that connects to the main and was able to free up the cable that had frozen up in the kicker tilt tube and got a full summer's use out of it but this week it froze up again and I bent the stainless "cable".....not sure I can straighten it out again

The question: how difficult is it to remove the cable and replace with a new one? I spoke to a Seastar rep yesterday and he was amazingly unhelpful. He started off telling me I probably would have to remove my kicker from the boat to swap out a new cable....wtf?

My concern is the bent part of the cable at the main engine side (the threaded portion). If I cut off the bent section, remove the nut that connects the cable to the kicker steering flange, will I be able to just pull the old cable out and insert the new one or do I have to remove all the hardware at either end of both tilt tubes?

Thanks for any comments out there...BTW, it's a 28" cable...replacement part No. is HP6228

 

[CIVANO]

I replaced mine. Same issue frozen in the kicker tilt tube. I did not have to remove the kicker. You have to remove the hardware at each end of both tilt tubes. The new cable comes with all the connections. A problem is that when you loosen one end the other end turns on the main. If you have a wrench on the other end it tightens instead of loosens. My mechanic told me to use an impact wrench on one end only and it will spin the nut fast enough that the grease inside resists enough that the nut will be loosened enough to remove and it worked. My kicker is a 9.9 yamaha and it has a pot steel tilt tube and it rusts. I bought a stainless steel tube brush and run it through a few times a year to remove the rust and old grease. I spray corrosion x hd in the cleaned tube first to bond with the metal http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx-heavy-duty.html and then use their HD bearing grease inside the tube http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx-grease.html. The stuff is a little pricey but I have not had it freeze up. I keep reminding myself that even with this it is better than ez steer. Other kickers have after market stainless tilt tubes but not Yamaha.

 

[Sharphooks]

Hey Civano

Much appreciated the quick response. However, it would help if you could clarify:

Quote

A problem is that when you loosen one end the other end turns on the main. If you have a wrench on the other end it tightens instead of loosens. My mechanic told me to use an impact wrench on one end only and it will spin the nut fast enough that the grease inside resists enough that the nut will be loosened enough to remove and it worked...

Unquote

So the cable is threaded into a nut on the main outboard side? A bit more detail on that part of the cable swap would help....maybe I should just get the new cable and see how it's put together...thanks again

 

[CIVANO]

I'm a couple thousand miles from my place and boat so I am a little fuzzy without looking at it. It would make sense that if one nut on the end of the tilt tube was being turned counter clockwise, the nut on the opposite end would turn counter clockwise if held but the opposite was happening I believe. Or maybe it was because both turned in the same direction and I could not get one to come off since the other one was rotating. I know I could not get it loose without the impact wrench. I also had to cut the plastic covered wire that come out between the 2 motors at the nut on the main so I could use the impact wrench on that nut. Sorry I can't visualize it more clearly. The cable replacement comes with the rubber gland nut for the far side of the kicker and the stainless gland nut for the main where the solid small diam. stainless rod moves in and out. I am afraid you may have to get it home to see what you need. I hope I did not make this more confusing. It is fairly easy except for getting the piece out of the main tilt tube.

 

[Sharphooks]

Your follow-up was a big help. Thanks again!

Not thrilled about replacing a $200 cable.....I mentioned the word "warranty" and the Seastar guy just about burst out laughing.... yes, a few clicks better then the EZ steer system, though when Seastar seizes up it's not an easy fix. Seastar recommends pulling it out when not in use....sounds waaay easier said then done

 

[Derby]

send them a e-amil explaining what is going on.. they replaced my for no charge find they give great service

 

[Sharphooks]

Thanks, Derby. I only have an address for a guy in the Florida office who in the past was helpful....which office gave you the velvet glove treatment?

I got a cold shoulder when I asked about warranty. Thanks

 

[Derby]

I'll send you the info i have..

 

[CIVANO]

The only part that seizes is the bigger stainless rod that goes through the kicker tilt tube. They told me to remove this tube when not in use. It is easy to get out.

 

[paguy]

Sea star also has an updated replacement for the cable through the kicker part. It is a solid bar that connects from the main to kicker and is a much better design, And gets rid of that week stainless bar you keep bending.