Sea Star cable tie bar adjustment
- Thread starter pescador
- Start date
ship happens
Well-Known Member
Which tie bar is it
Brando
Well-Known Member
Don’t think you can adjust the cable tie bar in small increments short of drilling new holes. your transom is not flat so if the kicker is installed in such a way that it’s “square” with the transom that radius is likely the misalignment your seeing. Could you post a picture standing at the stern looking down at your motors.
Assuming the above posted is the one your talking about
Assuming the above posted is the one your talking about
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ship happens
Well-Known Member
Aww ****
If that boat was I'm my shop I would have never done any of that.
Shorten that kicker bracket and put a twin engine tie bar done.
Going to have to drill new holes and figure out that one. Ina couple years that cable will be worn out.
Yamaha small engines were never good for remote steering on certain levels because they don't have a steering plate. Bolts to the casting. Same casting they use on the tiller models.
If that boat was I'm my shop I would have never done any of that.
Shorten that kicker bracket and put a twin engine tie bar done.
Going to have to drill new holes and figure out that one. Ina couple years that cable will be worn out.
Yamaha small engines were never good for remote steering on certain levels because they don't have a steering plate. Bolts to the casting. Same casting they use on the tiller models.
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Rayvon
Well-Known Member
Good timing on this thread,I want to change out the crap EZEE-STEER and get this system on my 208 Grady.My kicker is set back on a seperate bracket so solid bar connection on the front won't work.I can't see how the cable could be adjusted ,but offsetting the front kicker mount bracket or shortening/lengthening the return bar should work.They should made that kicker return bar with a turnbuckle in the middle for adjustment.How flexible is that cable,mine would have a fairly tight bend ?
seahorse
Crew Member
I recently installed the same setup on my 228 Seafarer and my kicker is slightly out of alignment with the main. I contacted Suzuki to see if I could get a longer steering bar but they said no. I tried to straighten the bar a little in my shop vise to make it a little longer and ended up breaking the vise so I will live with the issue. I lift my main a little while trolling and it seems to work fine.
ship happens
Well-Known Member
Just have to make a different connecting point and offset it for the direction you wanna go.
willydw
Active Member
My friend just had a new install also. Same problem. What’s wrong with doing it right the first time.
Explorer682
Active Member
I went with a Panther bracket, stainless rod with ball joints , was about $400 and it took me many hours to get it installed but was worth the effort. Might be an option for you as your motors are not offset to much.
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Skins88
Well-Known Member
Here's a pic of what I did on my 208. I couldn't find an easy solution and made my own custom arm out of copper pipe and an air line fitting off the main and an old panther connection on the kicker. Have to pop it on and off for trolling. Also use a small bungy to keep the tiller upright with the arm. Not great, but only takes a minute to pop in. And it works.
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Rayvon
Well-Known Member
I have the same offset bracket on my 208 and you can see in your picture how tight the main motor is in the well.This will make it hard to have a fixed link and the cable may not bend that much.Time to get creative.
Skins88
Well-Known Member
I made my bracket as tight to the transom as possible. Still a ways back from the main. It's a tough one. Curious to see what you come up with.
Brando
Well-Known Member
As I said above since your transom is curved this is the cause of the misalignment the picture shows that. Would suggest in the off season that you remove the bar that ties the linkage to the kicker at the motor you can then line your motors up and measure the distance that you are out. You can use this measurement to modify the bar or the way in which it’s mounted to the kicker.
Another option would be to pull the hairpin on the main side, line the motors up and re-drill this might mean cutting some of the shaft shorter or you may not have enough play depending how far out it is. Drilling stainless can be a major Pita so I would lean towards the other option.
With all that said if the boat turns properly as is don’t worry about it the fish will never know.
Another option would be to pull the hairpin on the main side, line the motors up and re-drill this might mean cutting some of the shaft shorter or you may not have enough play depending how far out it is. Drilling stainless can be a major Pita so I would lean towards the other option.
With all that said if the boat turns properly as is don’t worry about it the fish will never know.
MiddlepointBight
Well-Known Member
What is the effect of the misalignment? Do you feel a lot of resistance when steering? Does the level of this resistance chance if kicker up vs. down?
I have same the same setup on my 20'3 Hourston. Will take some pics if helpful.
Rayvon
Well-Known Member
I'd like to see more pictures to see how tight a bend is possible without having the cable fail or be too tight before I buy one.
MiddlepointBight
Well-Known Member
Roger. I'll snap some photos later today and post.
I have never had to disconnect the cable, so far, and full range of steering is possible irrespective of engine tilt configs (i.e kicker or main, up or down). There is a little resistance though but not too bad.
Rayvon
Well-Known Member
Thanks,my concern is the side of the splash well is only about 8" away from the steering connection on the main motor,so it would have to bend 90* at that point,pretty sharp bend.For a $1000 purchase ,I'd like to know it's going to work and last a long time.
pescador
Well-Known Member
Zero effect other than it bothers me visually. It needs a one inch adjustment
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