Kicker tie bar setup question

[pescador]

My boats been repowered and this is an old pix but you get the idea. I have the same set up on my new F250 and 9.9 Yam.

 

[tyee604]

You’ve got Seastar. Why not just install the Seastar Cable Tie Bar. It’s totally flexible and doesn’t care about different elevations or kicker placement. It’s bullet proof.

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/6-page-kicker-cable-single.pdf

@pescador
I was looking at that
Read a number of reviews that the internal bar on main motor side can get bent
Some reviewers said they have had to replace three times
Even the guy at marine store talked me out of it

 

[pescador]

@pescador
I was looking at that
Read a number of reviews that the internal bar on main motor side can get bent
Some reviewers said they have had to replace three times
Even the guy at marine store talked me out of it

All marine stuff breaks. It’s true you need to manage it. But it works Unreal.

 

[Aquaholic]

All marine stuff breaks. It’s true you need to manage it. But it works Unreal.

would it work and last longer if the bores were almost in alignment?

 

[ship happens]

I would 100 percent install a twin engine permanent tie bar.

 

[CIVANO]

@pescador
I was looking at that
Read a number of reviews that the internal bar on main motor side can get bent
Some reviewers said they have had to replace three times
Even the guy at marine store talked me out of it

My 2 cents. I have had the system for many many years and can tell you how to not have problems with it. 1st when trailering the boat turn the motors as if turning completely to starboard. The ss rod at the main motor is smaller diameter than the one in the kicker tilt tube. All the way to starboard completely inserts the smaller rod into the main tube and eliminates bending problems while trailering on **** roads. 2) The tilt tube on the kicker at least 9.9 yamaha is not stainless. It can get rusty and the steering can seize. I was dumped into the river at the old Port Renfrew Marina and discovered I had no stearing. It was seized. I forced the stearing which bent the smaller rod in order to get the boat secured. Check the ease of stearing occasionally and if a little tight, clean and grease the tilt tube. I do it once a year even if stearing is fine to be safe. 3) Use corrosion X grease that comes in the red tube. I have been using it for the last 5 years and have had no problems with stearing what so ever. I also use it on my trailer bearings. I have had zero kicker tilt tube rust or roughness. It is thick and stearing will be slightly more resistant than thinner grease. My boat has a pod for the main and a bracket attached to the stern for the kicker. This system allows me full power tilt on both engines and full turning. I had little options with my set-up and ez steer was terrible for me. I am completely satisfied now that I know how to take care of it.

 

[ship happens]

 

[pescador]

would it work and last longer if the bores were almost in alignment?

No don't think so. The part where people damage them is not greasing the crap out of them, or, they bump them against a dock. That's the two typical areas where people damage them.

 

[tyee604]

Tie bar is done
Just need to add cover sheath over threads to protect cables
After over engineering some other designs for bending the rod
Simplicity won out with a single bend
It works the best

 

[N2013]

Tie bar is done
Just need to add cover sheath over threads to protect cables
After over engineering some other designs for bending the rod
Simplicity won out with a single bend
It works the best

What did a tie bar and ends run ya? I have the same setup but where my bend is, it rubs on the screw down clamp handle. Thus I need to remove/reattach when trolling. I’d be interested in a new one if I could keep it attached. First world problems. A spare wouldn’t hurt either.

If you get a bunch of rattle with the new bar, Wolf gave me a good tip. Trim a piece of fuel hose and put the rubber ring over the ball. Grease it up, attach bar and voila. Acts as a nice rubber shim and quiets things down on the rear end.

 

[tyee604]

What did a tie bar and ends run ya? I have the same setup but where my bend is, it rubs on the screw down clamp handle. Thus I need to remove/reattach when trolling. I’d be interested in a new one if I could keep it attached. First world problems. A spare wouldn’t hurt either.

If you get a bunch of rattle with the new bar, Wolf gave me a good tip. Trim a piece of fuel hose and put the rubber ring over the ball. Grease it up, attach bar and voila. Acts as a nice rubber shim and quiets things down on the rear end.

@N2013
Bar ends was $45 or $50 each at Sherwood
That includes ball ends too
Thanks for sharing tips on rattle control

 

[turbomack]

If you have the resources burn a little gusset on the inside of the bend to help it maintain the curve.

 

[tyee604]

If you have the resources burn a little gusset on the inside of the bend to help it maintain the curve.

@turbomack
That crossed my mind
I’ll see how if goes first