pod design

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I'd be so anxious to test it at the point you are right now.

Just curious, did you glass the hole in before pod was installed? I didn't see any pics of that.
 
transom had some wetness so I opted not to close the hole at all.

on the outside I am about to fill all the generations of transducer screw holes and epoxy a small rectangle of 3/4" plywood as a base for my sensors and transducers, so they never pierce the outer fiberglass

I am still waiting on a few key parts:

-kicker controls
-smartmonitor tach
-hosekits for rigging from transom to engines
-propeller

also need shorter stainless bolts, the threads ended 1/4" too soon and I have multiple washers just to keep it tight.

and probably have to get the dealer to program my throttle if I cant hack it myself.

still lots of work to do.
 
Only problem with starboard is that you can't use adhesive to attach to the transom - so it will have to be screwed. If you're going to use plywood, I'd fibreglass it first.
 
cut some dovetails into the starboard and then 5200 it to the hull then it will be mechanically fastened or you could use some pvc board as 4200 or 5200 will stick to it. You will need the dealer to do the final setup on the verado....no way around that.
 
I've had good success with Lexan, had some 1/4 pieces laying around, cut them into small rectangles of same size, glued together with clear silicone, then siliconed to hull. Ducer can be mounted anywhere on the lexan block with 3/4" screws, hull remains pristine. Can be removed if needed by sliding a utility knife blade through the silicone.
 
Also need shorter stainless bolts, the threads ended 1/4" too soon and I have multiple washers just to keep it tight.

You might want to get some heavy SS fender washers/spacers made but that is what washers are for, in reality there should be no threads in the transom as threads provide less bearing surface than the solid shank and can allow movement which will lead to more movement. Think of the bolt shank acting as an alignment pin and the nut offering compression to the joint.
 
You might want to get some heavy SS fender washers/spacers made but that is what washers are for, in reality there should be no threads in the transom as threads provide less bearing surface than the solid shank and can allow movement which will lead to more movement. Think of the bolt shank acting as an alignment pin and the nut offering compression to the joint.

I got bolts that were 1/2" shorter, pulling the threads 1/4" into the outboard's bracket.

also you need to remember my engine is bolting onto a 1/2" metal plate, and not through the 3" wooden/glass transom.

I was kind of vague, maybe you thought I was talking about the pod's bolts, which in my case were installed by the pod guy.
 
Getting the motor to the right height is critical.The rule of thumb is for every 10-12" aft of transom motor should be raised 1",but it can vary from one boat to the next for best performance.I'm dealing with this on my new boat right now.Those older Searay's were great hulls,Im sure you'll love the ride when finished.
 
almost there.

I have been busy rewiring the old accessories and refitting my dash

a few spots to recaulk as well, while its off the water...
 
My SeaRay ran great. Up and out of the water with no issue. I can turn hard and accelerate without cavitation. Only weird thing is this rooster tail that forms and washes over the hood of my etec when I'm slowing down. I'm told its no issue. It is remedied by me giving a little bit of gas just as she settles back into the water.

Sorry if I highjacked your thread Lazy Bones. If I had found this many people in one place to learn from I'd have done this a long time ago.

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nice

mines just about ready, I gutted everything for my repower, so its taking a lil longer than expected.
hopefully by the end of next week I'll have a similar pic for you. :)
 
I'm considering doing the same to my boat but it is a bigger boat, 29 feet, weighs 10,000 lbs. I'm thinking of two 200 HP outboards. I'm very curious how much the out boards, when tilted up, add to the length of your boat.

What is the distance, with motor tilted up, from transom to tip of prop?
 
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