Notched 23 Hourston Transom

[FisherTim]

I know this topic seems to have a pretty strong consensus from this forum after looking through the 23-26 hourston restoration thread. Hats off to Rob, that’s an amazing level of workmanship.

Im going to get one thing clear from the get-go. I have neither the resources, time, patience, nor skills and workmanship to get the boat to a similar standard as rob did. My Priority is to get a structurally sound boat that is seaworthy, and will last, that means marine ply, epoxy bonding, no hardware, inside of hull gelcoated. I want a fishing vessel, not a yacht.

Im hoping to keep the boat under 10k. (Yes I know I will be laughing at myself down the road for even thinking that’s possible)

I happen to have a pair of Yamaha F115XLs counter rotating with rigging, hydraulic steering. Etc. I know it’s not ideal, but should be enough to plane comfortably and cruise in the low 20s. Also already have Raymarine plotter/sounder, so two big ticket items taken care of.

Realistically I don’t think I can get a pod under 3k, so that would eat into my budget pretty hard.

A pair of 115s weigh approx 850 wet, considerably less than the 351 and leg that were in there before. It seems like this boat was designed to have power right at the end of the transom too. According to the Yamaha service manual I’m supposed to go 13” from the centreline, leaving me with about 28” above the keel, or 12” of freeboard at the stern (based on the inboard waterline). If I build a splashwell to the height of H7, Ill be left with over 28” of flounder protection. That can’t possibly be a Safety concern. 2‘ from the transom with room to walk on either side is also considerably less of a footprint than the doghouse was. Still over 6 feet from splashwell to hard top. Total cost would be closer to 300 than 3000(labour is free)





I’m just about done ripping out all the stringers and bulkheads(one to go). And don’t worry, I already got rid of the Flybridge. Im going to try to keep an open boat and only build up the rear bulkhead to half height, use as backrest for seats with a drop down curtain to close bow off in winter.

I want to focus my budget on high quality materials and go minimalistic On the build. Nice open deck, good visibility, room, and a V Berth to sleep in.



Really, why shouldn’t one notch out the transom? Seems like a much more budget friendly option, especially if you’re already replacing it. Paired with a splashwell you’ll never flounder. I understand that if you’re putting $75k into one of these builds, it’s a no brainer to spend the extra pennies on a pod, but that’s not the case for me.

 

[RiverBoy]

I know this topic seems to have a pretty strong consensus from this forum after looking through the 23-26 hourston restoration thread. Hats off to Rob, that’s an amazing level of workmanship.

Im going to get one thing clear from the get-go. I have neither the resources, time, patience, nor skills and workmanship to get the boat to a similar standard as rob did. My Priority is to get a structurally sound boat that is seaworthy, and will last, that means marine ply, epoxy bonding, no hardware, inside of hull gelcoated. I want a fishing vessel, not a yacht.

Im hoping to keep the boat under 10k. (Yes I know I will be laughing at myself down the road for even thinking that’s possible)

I happen to have a pair of Yamaha F115XLs counter rotating with rigging, hydraulic steering. Etc. I know it’s not ideal, but should be enough to plane comfortably and cruise in the low 20s. Also already have Raymarine plotter/sounder, so two big ticket items taken care of.

Realistically I don’t think I can get a pod under 3k, so that would eat into my budget pretty hard.

A pair of 115s weigh approx 850 wet, considerably less than the 351 and leg that were in there before. It seems like this boat was designed to have power right at the end of the transom too. According to the Yamaha service manual I’m supposed to go 13” from the centreline, leaving me with about 28” above the keel, or 12” of freeboard at the stern (based on the inboard waterline). If I build a splashwell to the height of H7, Ill be left with over 28” of flounder protection. That can’t possibly be a Safety concern. 2‘ from the transom with room to walk on either side is also considerably less of a footprint than the doghouse was. Still over 6 feet from splashwell to hard top. Total cost would be closer to 300 than 3000(labour is free)

View attachment 66119



I’m just about done ripping out all the stringers and bulkheads(one to go). And don’t worry, I already got rid of the Flybridge. Im going to try to keep an open boat and only build up the rear bulkhead to half height, use as backrest for seats with a drop down curtain to close bow off in winter.

I want to focus my budget on high quality materials and go minimalistic On the build. Nice open deck, good visibility, room, and a V Berth to sleep in.



Really, why shouldn’t one notch out the transom? Seems like a much more budget friendly option, especially if you’re already replacing it. Paired with a splashwell you’ll never flounder. I understand that if you’re putting $75k into one of these builds, it’s a no brainer to spend the extra pennies on a pod, but that’s not the case for me.

I think having a full height stern is a lot safer in super snarly waters. if you are back trolling on the west coast , having your stern towards the waves watching some of those big rollers fill your splashwell is extremely unnnerving. with a pod, the waves usually die right then and there. more room at the stern is another consideration; some ppl have all their coolers and floatstied off on a stern rail. the pod provides a different level of gravity depending on planing pod etc.

this is a generality; i’m no expert on the subject; i’m just bored as usual so i thought i’d chime in

 

[brutus]

I think having a full height stern is a lot safer in super snarly waters. if you are back trolling on the west coast , having your stern towards the waves watching some of those big rollers fill your splashwell is extremely unnnerving. with a pod, the waves usually die right then and there. more room at the stern is another consideration; some ppl have all their coolers and floatstied off on a stern rail. the pod provides a different level of gravity depending on planing pod etc.

this is a generality; i’m no expert on the subject; i’m just bored as usual so i thought i’d chime in

To each there own, transom mounted outboard boats freak me out, exactly for the reason Riverboy as pointed out, big swells coming over the stern would be a big concern for me, watch wicked tuna for a bit and you get what I mean, imagine taking one of those in a stern mounted boat, better have good pumps

 

[gunnerlove]

I like it. Skipping the pod actually makes a bunch of sense. I would strongly consider/recommend building the splash well to the same height as the gunnels. Freeboard is your friend.
Of course I am the type of monster who wants to gut a 26 and turn it into a center console.

 

[FisherTim]

To each there own, transom mounted outboard boats freak me out, exactly for the reason Riverboy as pointed out, big swells coming over the stern would be a big concern for me, watch wicked tuna for a bit and you get what I mean, imagine taking one of those in a stern mounted boat, better have good pumps

I hear that concern, Ive spent a little time in gnarly waters myself. ive Back trolled with waves coming over the cowls on 28 pursuits. In a perfect world, I’d have a walk through transom with a 3‘ hull extension. That being said, if I had $100k to throw at this project, I certainly would pod it, put on a brand new 350, put In a sea keeper, etc...

that being said, I’m trying to do a $10,000 boat. Good enough will have to be good enough in some cases. I drew out the cutout and it does cut the boat down a lot, bit still a foot of freeboard over the water line. Paired with a splash well should still be far more capable than most production 23’s

 

[brutus]

I hear that concern, Ive spent a little time in gnarly waters myself. ive Back trolled with waves coming over the cowls on 28 pursuits. In a perfect world, I’d have a walk through transom with a 3‘ hull extension. That being said, if I had $100k to throw at this project, I certainly would pod it, put on a brand new 350, put In a sea keeper, etc...

that being said, I’m trying to do a $10,000 boat. Good enough will have to be good enough in some cases. I drew out the cutout and it does cut the boat down a lot, bit still a foot of freeboard over the water line. Paired with a splash well should still be far more capable than most production 23’s

Yes sir I get it, I mean go for it there are plenty of those out there, just make sure it’s done right and get yourself a good pump in case you do take one over. Good luck with your project

 

[adrian1991]

Let's see the boat

 

[cpony]

I had a 21 Striper that was rock solid and took big water with no issues. Loved the boat would take it anywhere on the coast. Actually have been up and down both sides of Van Isle, and down to Seattle. The number of times I've had to back into big water hard or back troll a little made me scared with notched transom. Always wanted to pod it for that very reason. If you are going through all this work and want a solid boat with resale down the road get it podded by someone that knows what they are doin. In five years that $3/$5,000 will be nothing.

 

[Fritz]

I like it. Skipping the pod actually makes a bunch of sense. I would strongly consider/recommend building the splash well to the same height as the gunnels. Freeboard is your friend.
Of course I am the type of monster who wants to gut a 26 and turn it into a center console.

You are a monster

 

[FisherTim]

Got most of the interior gutted today

I drew the line where I’d cut the transom


The twin 115s will be centred on the dry exhaust holes, leaving 28” to the keel from cut. still unsure of total width and profile upward.

 

[Fritz]

It’s a lot of work, I just gutted a 20’ this winter and finally got stringers and a floor back in recently. I’m going to spend some time doing a more detailed thread of the autopsy and post op. I put these pics up hopefully as encouragement and there is no better feeling (of the build) than when the floor goes back in.

Good luck with your project!

 

[FisherTim]

It’s a lot of work, I just gutted a 20’ this winter and finally got stringers and a floor back in recently. I’m going to spend some time doing a more detailed thread of the autopsy and post op. I put these pics up hopefully as encouragement and there is no better feeling (of the build) than when the floor goes back in.

Good luck with your project!
View attachment 66156

Very Nice work.

 

[FisherTim]

I like it. Skipping the pod actually makes a bunch of sense. I would strongly consider/recommend building the splash well to the same height as the gunnels. Freeboard is your friend.
Of course I am the type of monster who wants to gut a 26 and turn it into a center console.

I was thinking of just cutting the transom top flush with the gunwales and moving it 2’ inwards. Not entirely sure yet.


still have to tear out old transom(even though it doesn’t look too terrible in most places)

A 26 CC would be so sick. Big budget build for sure, but if you have 50 grand and more time and patience than sense you would get yourself a mighty nice boat.

 

[adrian1991]

It’s a lot of work, I just gutted a 20’ this winter and finally got stringers and a floor back in recently. I’m going to spend some time doing a more detailed thread of the autopsy and post op. I put these pics up hopefully as encouragement and there is no better feeling (of the build) than when the floor goes back in.

Good luck with your project!
View attachment 66156

Love it you should of done a write up

 

[wolf]

A pod is like 3500 bucks honestly if you cant afford that you should have a boat
Bring
Out
Another
Thousand

and dont take this the wrong way but you will be into this project well beyond 10 grand ... and IF you have to sell it the resale of a pod is going to get you more .Trust me I get you want to "cheap" but sometimes cheap doesn't make it better. you will have to spend more time and money reinforcing a "well" . with a pod it gives you many many more options... just look at what 23 hourston did on his it looks great... its fast simple and really not expensive....

 

[Brando]

You can build your pod from marine ply / foam and glass, not my style but it’s possible and will likely cost you the same in materials and time as you’ll spend ruining (IMO) that beautiful transom and building an adequate well.. not to mention aesthetics and safety but to each their own. If you checkout what Myles has done to his 20 maybe ask him some questions?

 

[FisherTim]

A pod is like 3500 bucks honestly if you cant afford that you should have a boat
Bring
Out
Another
Thousand

and dont take this the wrong way but you will be into this project well beyond 10 grand ... and IF you have to sell it the resale of a pod is going to get you more .Trust me I get you want to "cheap" but sometimes cheap doesn't make it better. you will have to spend more time and money reinforcing a "well" . with a pod it gives you many many more options... just look at what 23 hourston did on his it looks great... its fast simple and really not expensive....

I hear you. A pod would be ideal. I would like to say that the first line is a little condescending. I’ve owned 8 boats so far and I’m only 22. All of these I paid for entirely myself.

I like to think it’s possible to get the hull structurally restored for 10k, and I don’t think that’s too unreasonable.

$1500 marine ply
$1000 Epoxy and filler
$1500 Poly and Hardner
$500 for Matt and cloth
$1000 In disposables(gloves, rollers, brushes, grinder disks, suits, masks, etc)
$500 in gelcoat for internal sealing.
$1500 for epoxy paints

leaves me 2500 In wiggle room

its not necessarily a matter of being able to afford the pod as much as if it’s really a good idea to focus such a big part of my budget on it

Keep in mind I already have power, rigging, and electronics, riggers, etc.(so really it’s a 25k project)


a full hull extension pod/euro transom was also a consideration, but I don’t want to turn the 23 into a 26. 23 is more than enough boat(esp for twin 115s) . My plan was just to cut the transom top and glass it back in 2’ further forward(some idiot already cut it up so it would need to be repaired anyhow. My decision Isn’t final yet,

 

[Gear'n'beer!]

I think you might just be the first person in history to not pod an IO and put in a splashwell. Personally I agree with Brando that your not talking much more money to build your own pod and I would definitely see if Myles would have a opinion, but what do I know. Will be an interesting project. Good on you for taking this on.

 

[Sea lyin’]

Long time ago I had a 20’ k&c someone put a splashwell in and converted to an outboard. Think they called it “tubbing” back then. It was an open boat and the job was done well and was tough to tell it had been modified. Handled fine and had an old 140 Johnson on it. My neighbor across the street has a 1970s 22’ bell boy thats been converted to an outboard with a splashwell. It’s got a 150hp on it and he loves it. Does look a little funny though as they didn’t do a full transom but instead cut a hole for the engine to fit. I’ll see if I can get some pics next time he’s around.

 

[myles]

Hmm, the budget seems tight. I think you will need $1500 in Epoxy minimum for stringers. I would think 20 gallons would be about right. Check prices here. Use lots of 1708 and make nice big fillets http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html (good prices on epoxy and its nice for wetting out) Id go slow cure for summer work and then no blush to deal with

Easier to get an Alum pod made and bolt-on than re and re the transom. Lots of work to make a motor well-but not impossible! But motor wells suck so that's why I would never consider them when the boat already has a full transom.

Building a pod out of glass is more advanced and will take longer than the time it will take to make money to buy an alum pod LOL.

In summary, I would go with a bracket of some sort, the boat is long enough that a planning pod will work great.

It's your boat, your decision, and $. Good luck with the project! Great hull