Gear'n'beer!
Well-Known Member
Rotating ceramic nozzle and a few thousand psi makes it look like new
New To Me
- Thread starter walleyes
- Start date
ReelSlim
Crew Member
Make sure to use the regular CLR not the kitchen and bath. I think it’s a bit more diluted. I have also used the Home Hardware brand of CLR and really haven’t noticed any difference and it’s a lot cheaper if your using lots.
Stizzla
Crew Member
I was thinking magic erasers also.
They really work on the side of white shoe soles too.
ReelSlim
Crew Member
I use them a well. I know some people have a hate on for them because they are abrasive. I have found on a white hull or interior a gentle wipe with them hasn’t caused any wear marks...and I’m super anal!
Drink
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, tried everything mentioned above except SteelyDan's 10% diluted bleach solution.. Worth a try for sure.
Bought a bottle of Star-Brite Non-Slip deck cleaner to try when it warms up a bit in the shed. Let you know how it turns out. If that doesn't work I will try the Aurora as well.
On another note I am fairly new to this forum so a big thank you to everyone who participates. With over 60 years of boating/ fishing experience I hope I can add some added value by participating.
Bought a bottle of Star-Brite Non-Slip deck cleaner to try when it warms up a bit in the shed. Let you know how it turns out. If that doesn't work I will try the Aurora as well.
On another note I am fairly new to this forum so a big thank you to everyone who participates. With over 60 years of boating/ fishing experience I hope I can add some added value by participating.
Drink
Well-Known Member
Next time I am out checking the boat over I will take a few pictures.
Stizzla
Crew Member
You’re doing well on the hockey thread for sure!
walleyes
Crew Member
I've been using CLR and a stiff brush and scrub pads. There was a very bad rust ring around the waterline that I scrubbed off I was amazed at how well it stripped it, it wasn't easy but it came off. I should have taken a picture of the inside of the one fish box that is in the pic. He kept his anchor and chain in that box. It was absolutely thick with rust I never thought I would get it but as you can see front the pic it came darn near new. In the pic of the box the floor looks dirty as I was heavy into repairs when I took it so the floor is not the cleanest, I have since finished my repair work and did a final on the floor. I have CLR in a small spray jug and I wet the floor, spray it with CLR then on my hands and knees and scrub with the stiff brush, really brightened it up. I also bought a jug of Acetone and have it in a spray jug. I've been using it on the black rubber scuffs and the tough stains it a miracle worker that stuff but I learned on a few things,, it hates plastic lol, be carful with it I'll say that. But when I comes to the fiberglass and bad scuffs it's incredible stuff.
walleyes
Crew Member
This is the deck after a good cleaning. I wish I would have taken some pics of the boat of when I first got it, it was absolutely black. My wife thought I was nuts. But I looked at the mechanical side of it and I knew I could clean up the rest. The canopy and topside of the boat were black with mildew. It looked like, well a boat that was stored outside year round for 10 years is what it looked like. The guy looked after it mechanically but not so much on the cleanliness. I am amazed it came as clean as it has I really am. Believe me it hasn't been easy though.
BCI
Well-Known Member
Let the star-brite sit for 5-10 before scrubbing/rinsing. Don't let it dry out, but let it soak in before you work it.
Use it regularly, and your deck cleaning becomes a 'rinse off' affair.
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Buckethead905
Well-Known Member
Second on the FSR product. The acronym is “Fiberglass Stain Remover” . It is comprised of oxalic acid and isopropanol. I have done a few non skid boat floors and the stuff is really amazing. Don’t bother with the bleach cleaners and especially stay away from the pressure washer, you don’t want to delaminate. This is of particular concern with the raised non-skid bumps, as they can tend to be weak from things impacting the floor and once the pressure hits it you’re hooped. All fiberglass surfaces are porous, and as the surface oxidizes over the years it allows for stains to become imbedded in the glass, all the scrubbing and pressure washing in the world won’t fix your problem. Apply the FSR with a toothbrush in a small 6x6” area, until you have a thin blue layer of the goo on the floor. Wait 5 minutes and wipe off with a microfibre cloth, if any stains remain you can reapply and it will get out the rest, this stuff is incredible. After you’re done the floor wash it thoroughly with a boat wash. Come back when it’s dry and apply a high quality non-skid deck wax. This is a crucial step to seal the now unprotected and porous surface. You’ll never get rid of the oxidization in the floor (can’t compound or wet-sand) but regular waxing will keep the surface sealed and protected. Your floor will look like new. Just ask @Unreel how the 2foot section on his pursuit looked when I was done.
Here is a link to the MSDS;
https://www.davisinstruments.com/product_documents/marine/msds/msds790.pdf
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chromatose007
Well-Known Member
Starbrite has a product for that. Also Bleach and Bilge Cleaner 1/2 & 1/2 in a spray bottle works well.
Might want to use Fluid Film instead of WD40 under the cowls...
Nice rig, well done
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