mounting new kicker

[tubbed out]

So this afternoon I plan on mounting my new kicker . I have a couple of questions

It mounts right to my transom .

so should I put any sort of product ( rubber or something ) under the mounting surface or go clean ?

I want to put on a chian or something to prevent theft and or catch the motor should it ever somehow fall . What have you used ??

Any tips on the break in period ?

thanks
Tubbed

 

[tubbed out]

sooo looks like Im gona need a bracket . any thought , ideas or pictures ???

 

[scott craven]

Go for a powder coated or aluminum fixed bracket.
the adustable ones usually break.
You can get one for $150-200

http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/8176721

you will have to carefully locate the bracket so the kicker
is at optimal position.

 

[Island Fish Lifter]

agreed with RS. I mounted mine too low and it was underwater lots of the time offshore. Those powdercoated brackets and made in Vancouver by Action Marine (I think thats what theyre called). If you buy it directly from there you dont pay the middle man mark up.

Fill the dam tub!

 

[cedarman]

They are called adventure marine in vancouver.

 

[tubbed out]

SO do you guys trailor with the kicker mounted ?

if so do you tilt it up ???

Ive seen it done a tone but a little research and now Im not so sure

If I go solid bracket I would have to tilt it up .

I guess a strap and or transom save might solve these issues

thanks Tubbed

 

[scott craven]

Not such an issue with a solid kicker bracket as there is no flex.
ground clearance would dictate whether or not you could travel with the
kicker down, which would be easier on the screws and tilt assembly.

 

[tubbed out]

Ok solid it is ''I like the looks of the solod brackets anyhow .

Now

so the yammy instructions state the cavitation plate must be within and inch up or down of the bottom of the boat . So do they mean the bottom where the motor mounts or the lowest point of the bottom { the middle }

if I put it aT the lowest point it will for sure have to tilt

hope that makes sence

thanks rs


tubbed

 

[scott craven]

I would say they mean the area of the hull where the kicker enters the water. however get another opinion on that, cuz you only want to do this once.
holes should be drilled first using the bracket as a template.
Remember to use stainless bolts,lock washers & nuts. and coat the bolts with Sikaflex to provide a seal where they pass through the hull.

 

[profisher]

It is where you'll be mounting it, not the keel of the hull. You want the prop to be clear of the hull so it gets a clean flow of water in forward gear and shoot water under the hull in reverse. The longer the leg the better, as you can keep the prop deeper in the water so it won't cavitate on rough days and still keep the powerhead up as high as possible.

 

[Tailspin]

Food fo thought,

Watch that you mount it high enough that it does not drag in the water tilted up, splashing water all over while getting up on plane. If you run a line guard on your prop they like to chuck water around at plane. I run a adjustable garalick and find out quick if i forget to bring it up to the top notch. If i ran a fixed bracket it would not work without an extra long shaft.

www.tailspincharters.com

 

[profisher]

I got rid of my Garlick cause my back was either going to pop when I lifted...or I was going over the transom on a rough day. High gunnels and a adjustable bracket don't work well together. I hated having to spray it with LP2 all the time to keep it from stiffening up as well.

 

[Fins -n- Skins]

Tubbed if you have a boat under 20 ft i would go with adjustable garelick. I put a fixed on a 17 ft which was great. But like Tailspin said it dragged when not up on plane and water everywhere. If you don't mind water spray then go with a fixed. I now have a garelick adjustable, and yes it moves abit, but not much. Even with the fixed you will have to lean out to tilt up, unless you have power tilt. The fixed works great on the bigger boats because of pods and high gunnels and so forth. The new garelicks are built for 4 strokes and mine hasn't seized up ??

 

[Weinstein]

Agree with Profisher, the prop should be clear of the boat hull when it's down so it gets clear water through. What size kicker are you mounting? I would recommend going with the biggest bracket they have, the tougher the better. I cut some square panels of starboard (the cutting board material)in the shape of the bracket and mounted them front and back to protect the transom.

You do have a little bit of play when mounting the bracket. We mounted ours and found it to be too low, finger tip reach over the transom when raising it back up. So we moved the bracket up by one bolt hole. Try it first, just drill the middle holes only, then you can always raise it without needing to fill a hole afterwards.

You want the cavitation plate to be well underwater otherwise you it will cavitate whenever you get a slight chop or wake, makes a racket.

 

[tubbed out]

iTS A Yammy 8 hp 85 lbs I think

Like stated before I only want to do this once
I really like the idea of the hard bracket but the splash thing would drive me crazy .
I store by boat at home and trailor all the time

Ill try to post a pic if I can figure it

thanks for everyones input

tubbed

 

[profisher]

No splash from my bracket. The other thing to consider when making your choice..is the set back from the hull. I think the solid bracket will put the kicker farther aft..possibly making a tie bar connection a bit more involved. My main is on a pod so it sits back far aft as well so it wasn't as much an issue for me.

 

[tubbed out]

OK so I spent most of weekend planning and gathering supplies to mount my new solid mount .

I like the cutting board idea on the inside . So I will pu a chunk tomorrow at Ip and paint I like the ideas of the board on the outside but it will set my kicker out like another half inch or so . Is there really any advantage over the large flat podwer coated alum bracket right against the back of my boat .

and yes Im using sikoflex and ss hardware

thanks to all who have replied

BTW congrats to BigMeal on his new kicker ( copy cat )

tubbed

 

[tubbed out]

OK so I spent most of weekend planning and gathering supplies to mount my new solid mount .

I like the cutting board idea on the inside . So I will pu a chunk tomorrow at Ip and paint I like the ideas of the board on the outside but it will set my kicker out like another half inch or so . Is there really any advantage over the large flat podwer coated alum bracket right against the back of my boat .

and yes Im using sikoflex and ss hardware

thanks to all who have replied

BTW congrats to BigMeal on his new kicker ( copy cat )

tubbed

 

[profisher]

I have the board on the outboard clamp side to give them better bite into a softer material. I also used 2 stainless bolts to secure the outboard to the bracket. No need for anything between the transom and the bracket...just sika around the edge and the thru hull bolts..

 

[profisher]

I have the board on the outboard clamp side to give them better bite into a softer material. I also used 2 stainless bolts to secure the outboard to the bracket. No need for anything between the transom and the bracket...just sika around the edge and the thru hull bolts..