Hook size for coyote spoons

Orion

Member
I have a few coyote spoons with rusty hooks that I would like to replace. What are you guys using for hooks. Size and type would be great.
Thanks Orion
 
I use 5/0 straight shank and rather than pound close I squeeze shut with a pair of pliers. I also prefer the hook with a slight inward roll of the point.
 
It depends on the size of the spoon but I like 4/0 Siwash hooks up to 6/0 for larger spoons. Nog pointed out what can happen if you don't close those eyes with a nice even one squeeze motion (I broke a couple by double squeezing and squeezing too hard).
 
If you Pound( would tap with force sound better) the hook closed with an anvil and hammer, you don't get any broken eyes and the eye is tightly closed-whereas with a set of pliers you have to keep re-squeezing to get the eye tightly closed (if you can). This puts undue force on the hook as the steel tries to bounce back to its old shape and then you squeeze again-this flexes it causing a weak spot which probably explains broken hooks on closing. I've used both methods-but in both cases the hook should never be used again if you have to open the eye in any way. It will definetly break either when you try to open it or worse when put under the strain of a large fish. My 2 cents LOL
 
The Coyotes are a light flutter action spoon. Don't put too heavy a hook on them. Match your hook size to the size of the spoon. 3/0 for a 3.5 Coyote, 4/0 for the 4, and 5/0 for the 5.0 and 6.0. They were originally equipped with Mustad 9510's. Use Mustad 9510 Open Eye and bend closed with an appropriately adjusted pair of Channel lock pliers in one smooth and consistent motion.
 
I've replaced a lot of mine with the rvrfshr hooks (#4 or #5 depending on the size of the spoon). These hooks with their unique angled bend seem to hold fish a bit better.
 
Depends what you want the Coyote or Silver Horde spoon to do.

If you put a small lightweight hook on the welded ring on you will get better action at slow speed because the spoon does not have to overcome much resistance.

Hook should be facing inward to the spoon belly.

if you put an offset bend in the hook you are creating a directional "rudder" which will affect it.

Some do this for better hookup though.

If you put a much bigger hook on the welded ring, you will slow down the action of the spoon at slow speed (unless you mess around with the bend in the spoon).

If you put a swivel on the end of the spoon with a small hook, it will roll faster than if you hadn't bothered at faster speed.

Ditto for a large hook on a swivel.

The swivel takes the rolling resistance out of the spoon and it is more free to roll.

A swivel on the end of the hook can increase your hookup ratio though, because when the fish "jack-knifes" or rolls the swivel prevents the spoon from popping out of the fishes mouth more.

I find I get more fish with a slower moving spoon, so I set mine up these days to have action at slower speed.

I'm not using swivels on the back end of the spoon any more.

I like Siwash hooks with a deep "cup" in them. I tend to go Mustad a lot. Also VMC too.

Many of the commercial hooks are just too "weighty and heavy-duty for my liking.
 
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Depends what you want the Coyote or Silver Horde spoon to do.

If you put a small lightweight hook on the welded ring on you will get better action at slow speed because the spoon does not have to overcome much resistance.

Hook should be facing inward to the spoon belly.

if you put an offset bend in the hook you are creating a directional "rudder" which will affect it.

Some do this for better hookup though.

If you put a much bigger hook on the welded ring, you will slow down the action of the spoon at slow speed (unless you mess around with the bend in the spoon).

If you put a swivel on the end of the spoon with a small hook, it will roll faster than if you hadn't bothered at faster speed.

Ditto for a large hook on a swivel.

The swivel takes the rolling resistance out of the spoon and it is more free to roll.

A swivel on the end of the hook can increase your hookup ratio though, because when the fish "jack-knifes" or rolls the swivel prevents the spoon from popping out of the fishes mouth more.

I find I get more fish with a slower moving spoon, so I set mine up these days to have action at slower speed.

I'm not using swivels on the back end of the spoon any more.

I like Siwash hooks with a deep "cup" in them. I tend to go Mustad a lot. Also VMC too.

Many of the commercial hooks are just too "weighty and heavy-duty for my liking.

X 2.

One thing for sure though, you have to be very careful with the experimentation....or you may kill the spoon. Silver Hordes have a low tolerance for tinkering.

One thing for sure, manufacturers design and punch their spoons to catch fish under a wide range of conditions so that baseline makes for a very impressive benchmark.

Your mileage may vary....
 
Thanks for all the info guys. That's a lot of things I hadn't thought of. I had always tried to use my needle nose pliers to close the hooks, what a pain and now I know why. Since I joined this site I have changed so much of how I fish and I've already caught more fish than I did all last year.
Thanks for the help guys. Orion
 
Yeah the channel lock pliers are the way to go over the needle nose.


Thanks for all the info guys. That's a lot of things I hadn't thought of. I had always tried to use my needle nose pliers to close the hooks, what a pain and now I know why. Since I joined this site I have changed so much of how I fish and I've already caught more fish than I did all last year.
Thanks for the help guys. Orion
 
The reason for the use of the needle nose was always just they were handy on the boat. I knew they weren't the right tool for the job but they seem to always be within reach.
 
I just use a pair of mid-size Vicegrips.

The serrations in the jaw of the vice-grips I have hold a hook in place very well.

I set the grips to get a good squeeze at low pressure.

You can set up the eye of the hook in the vice-grip jaws to close at the best angle you want.

One slow squeeze and they are done.

Then I reset and use the vice-grips to compress the barb on the hook. Works great.


Except for some hooks where the barb will snap off when you compress it.

Then I take a file to it....or use a dremel on the exposed rough spot.

But....if using dremel be careful of heat build-up....which will decidedly weaken the hook at that spot.
 
I just use a pair of mid-size Vicegrips.The serrations in the jaw of the vice-grips I have hold a hook in place very well.I set the grips to get a good squeeze at low pressure.You can set up the eye of the hook in the vice-grip jaws to close at the best angle you want.One slow squeeze and they are done....
X2.

That's exactly how I do it too-100% effective.
 
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