Auto pilot opinions

[doug78]

I am looking at going a different way. I own a welded aluminum and A lot of guys in the US go with a bow mounted trolling motor.

I will still need to run the kicker for trolling but the bow mounted motor will move/turn to maintain the heading.

The advanced ones have GPS and chartplotter interfaces.

just depends on the current. I have a buddy that has a bow mount and he runs his kicker and steers with the bow mount. He likes it.

Just kicker in gear and running? Or running just to charge batteries?? is his a 12v motor??? Cables run stern to bow or front battery set up?

The big cost of a bow motor set up can be running a decent battery pack. Lots of the guys down south, especially on larger boats run 3 12v lithium batteries for the 36v motor. That alone adds close to a thousand bucks a battery if you go lithium. A decent lead acid set up would be 6-800. Then you need space for them...

If you need a big battery pack i can see the cost adding up quickly. They do work really well, especially for spot locking. But for trolling i think it would be a bit much. Having the kicker running would help the charging circuit, so you would not need much reserve power just the approriate 12/24/36 voltage and a charger to make that work.

 

[Fisher_dude]

Just kicker in gear and running? Or running just to charge batteries?? is his a 12v motor??? Cables run stern to bow or front battery set up?

The big cost of a bow motor set up can be running a decent battery pack. Lots of the guys down south, especially on larger boats run 3 12v lithium batteries for the 36v motor. That alone adds close to a thousand bucks a battery if you go lithium. A decent lead acid set up would be 6-800. Then you need space for them...

If you need a big battery pack i can see the cost adding up quickly. They do work really well, especially for spot locking. But for trolling i think it would be a bit much. Having the kicker running would help the charging circuit, so you would not need much reserve power just the approriate 12/24/36 voltage and a charger to make that work.

Kicker in gear and running to get the speed and steers with the front. He’s got 3 12v battery’s.

 

[Ringo]

Been using the Reactor 40 now for a few weeks it would

Been using the Reactor 40 now for a few weeks it would recommend it because you don't have hydraulic that would be $1800 the reactor on your kicker would give throttle and steering from the remote. Works good at low speed 2 miles a hour trolling in wind and current off Cape Mudge and heavy chop and wind at Kitty. If your have the Garmin 942 you can get away without the GHC 20 helm control that would save you $400 so you could get it for $3100. And yes I believe you can use it in reverse but for back trolling it would be a pain you would still have to kick it in and out of gear and put into standby when on the spot it may work for you but I don't think it easy. The throttle actuator has failed on mine from the start working with Garrmin support I got it to work one day but it failed the next it was so nice to have speed and cruise control . Garmin after 2 months now has agreed to replace it but the are on back order from Taiwan and it wont be here the October. I have it on a 17 foot boat with 9.9 yam high thrust.

Garmin Reactor 40 Kicker Autopilot – GPS Central

Designed for small gasoline boats, this Reactor 40 kicker autopilot gives you the extra hand you need, so you can fish and explore paradise worry-free. GHC Autodisplay is NOT included.

www.gpscentral.ca

Thanks for this.
If I install the AP system on my boat and my 3-footitis proves to be incurable, how easy would it be to move to the next boat? Would the installation require drilling any holes in the glass hull?

I’m not going to get the GHC 20 screen, will be just networking to my Garmin 942 through the NMEA2000 connection. So, no cutting holes in the dash for the screen.

 

[blueugl]

Thanks for this.
If I install the AP system on my boat and my 3-footitis proves to be incurable, how easy would it be to move to the next boat? Would the installation require drilling any holes in the glass hull?

I’m not going to get the GHC 20 screen, will be just networking to my Garmin 942 through the NMEA2000 connection. So, no cutting holes in the dash for the screen.

I did cut a hole for the rigging tube that I had added the yam is a high thrust with battery cord and main wiring cable then the ap throttle actator wire plus the Garmin steering step motor cable I also use the kicker bracket to raise and lower the kicker. I added the rigging tube to protect all the wiring. It would be easy to just pull off a add to a different boat all just plug and play. the rigging was fun the routing took all the lenght of wire from my main harness and I had to re-route that and get some most length because the big bow that I put in the rigging tube. The rigging tube fit right tight up inside of the kicker bracket nicely.

 

[Ringo]

Thank you. This is very helpful.

 

[fishbadger]

Get an AP with a wireless remote on a lanyard. Being able to steer while rigging on the troll, instead of having to run up to the helm, is essential if you're fishing busy spots solo. I second the reservation about using "spot lock" AP feature to fish deep water like hali, you wont be on top of your gear due to current. I can see how it'd be might helpful for anchoring solo, or hovering, or whatever.
I have a GHP20 right now. It's on it's 3rd pump or so, if you use them to troll like crazy like I do you'll maybe get 2-3 yrs tops out of a pump. I troll on my mains (F150's), but will be repowering with F200's, so I'm navigating the AP decision with the new platform (fly by wire or mechanicals will dictate the AP setup).
fb

 

[RevyG]

Absolutely get the remote, should just be part of the package. Necessary in my opinion if you have AP

 

[Marty-party]

The post is a bit old but can anyone recommend a shop or person to help me with my raymarine autopilot on my 21’ aluminum boat. I bought the boat used and I’m having nothing but trouble with my raymarine electronics.

 

[Deejray]

The post is a bit old but can anyone recommend a shop or person to help me with my raymarine autopilot on my 21’ aluminum boat. I bought the boat used and I’m having nothing but trouble with my raymarine electronics.

Parker marine installed and set mine up. Curt in Courtenay. 2503344808. They have a location in Nanaimo too

 

[SpringVelocity]

The post is a bit old but can anyone recommend a shop or person to help me with my raymarine autopilot on my 21’ aluminum boat. I bought the boat used and I’m having nothing but trouble with my raymarine electronics.

Breakers Marine in Port Alberni on VI set up mine. I am sure the do all kinds of systems. Ask for Jeremy.

 

[Marty-party]

I should have specified. Anyone or store on the mainland.

 

[Ringo]

Call Cole. He’s mobile and does a fantastic job.
604-803-5558

 

[Marty-party]

Call Cole. He’s mobile and does a fantastic job.
604-803-5558

Thanks for the recommendation, is he on the mainland?

 

[Ringo]

Thanks for the recommendation, is he on the mainland?

Yep