Red Monster
Well-Known Member
Okay, that makes sense. Thanks. [8D]
used plugs without flashers. I used them in alberni inlet a lot. some days, plugs with bright colours work well, other days, they don't work well. change the plugs with colours into dark.
A friend of mine was new with his plug attached with a flasher while fishing. He caught AND THEN lost a nice fish! a flasher attached with plug put up some stress on fishing line...then snapped line!
A friend of mine was new with his plug attached with a flasher while fishing. He caught AND THEN lost a nice fish! a flasher attached with plug put up some stress on fishing line...then snapped line!
M
Mortician
Guest
Plugs don't work unless there are fish around. Period. No fish = No Catch. When you get offshore if the fish aren't there..you ain't catching...
When the fish are on the prod and plentiful, they're a great lure, which allow you to cover more area...otherwise it makes for lazy fishing, blasting around at high speed. better hope you have a good stereo, a cold bevy or good company on board to keep you occupied.
Otherwise, no fish, no catch.
When the fish are on the prod and plentiful, they're a great lure, which allow you to cover more area...otherwise it makes for lazy fishing, blasting around at high speed. better hope you have a good stereo, a cold bevy or good company on board to keep you occupied.
Otherwise, no fish, no catch.
IronNoggin
Well-Known Member
Agree with Tailspin on this one. Last couple of seasons I ran 7" plugs a LOT. Began as simply a way to avoid the often too numerous coho, but the production was fast enough on larger fish to warrant running them anytime the large returners were about:
As there were more pilchards around than herring last year, weapon of choice was a Tomic 7" 722:
These were doctored up by adding a series of black dots along the "lateral line", and yanking the pins. Ran the leader through the uppermost hole which created great action at speeds from 3 through near 4 knots (usually 3.4 for me). As Tomic hasn't produced this paint job in the last few years (at least that I could find) I was using the last two plugs I found in an aging box on the troller, so I very much didn't want to lose them. But, lose them we did! No less than seven times last year alone. But, these battle-scarred veterans are still with me! On each occasion the leader let go (ask me again how you can separate a 50 lb leader???) we swung back and were able to retrieve the "lost" plug. So, they went on and on catching Biggies for the balance of the season, and have just had their paint jobs restored for the one upcoming.
Removing the pins did give a little more action, but obviously not too much for the fish, even at speed. And, the bonus was you could retrieve them when they broke free. Priceless when you can't get more immediately, and you have a proven Killer!
On an aside, this is the one I prefer for Barkely Sound / Alberni Inlet. Rarely fails
And as for the original question: Nope, no flashers. Not even "Falsies" required.
Cheers,
Nog
O
OneWay
Guest
The Classic is the original Tomic plug (pin in or out), while the Tubby is an original plug that has been machined on a lathe to remove some of the tail — for example, a 6-inch Tubby is a 7-inch Classic that has been shaved down so it's stubbier. The removal of length and material is what allows the Tubby to have much more action at low speeds.
Pulling the pin is mainly for possibly saving a plug after a break off. If you pull the pin, make sure you run the mainline right though the plug to the hooks without any swivels so the plug won't get hung up after a break off.
In theory, removing pins reduces the action compared to properly tying a line to the tow bar (so it swims head down). So plug without pins may need to be trolled much faster.
In general, I like to really crank along with plugs of any style. Don't worry, salmon will keep up.
With regards to fish needing to be around with plugs out....you could say that about any lure, even bait. Tom Moss used to lament that anglers would only put out his lures after a "hot" bite when their anchovy or herring were no longer catching any fish....then say that plugs don't catch fish — duh. If fish are really hitting herring and anchovy, they'll hit almost anything.
That said, plugs are not created absolutely equal. Commercial boys fish hundreds of plugs in a season, but only a few dozen consistently catch fish. Those dozens of "catchers" are covered in teeth marks — so many that you can't even tell what colour the plugs were. When you find a catcher, put it away in a special place after each outing. The plugs that don't catch anything...sell them at a flea market, they'll probably be pristine, and won't have a scratch on them. When the commercial fleet was reduced a few years ago, you could get buckets of Tomic plugs for 25 cents each...the guys who picked out the most scratched up ones got the proven plugs that caught fish...so keep your eye out at garage sales.
I use gear almost exclusively when trolling. If I miss a strike on gear, the lure will still fish properly. If I miss a hit on bait, that line will not catch fish until I check it, and I may have lost a half hour of prime fishing time on that line.
Don't get me wrong, I do fish with bait, but I don't get into a panic if there's a bait shortage or I run into a school of doggies, or hit a gazillion coho. And I don't need to worry about brine, the right bend, teaser heads, toothpicks, pins....
IronNoggin
Well-Known Member
Not in my experience. I run generally 40 lb leaders (~ 6 feet) through the plug to a bead, then the hook (single that is). The opposite end was attached to a swivel, then to 50 lb mainline (specialty commercial order from Hawaii - thinner diameter than 30 lb Maxima but very strong). The only way you would lose the plug with that set-up is if your mainline broke before the lighter leader did. In 7 break-offs last year, this never occurred once. As long as your mainline is reasonably good shape, the lighter leader should go first, allowing the plug to surface and be re-collected.
Again, not what I've experienced. By removing the pins, and running the leader through the uppermost hole that is left, you actually place the pivot point much closer and higher on the face of the plug than any other method. That equates to more action at slower speeds, and quicker action at higher speeds. Try the test boatside yourself with two rigged each way. You'll quickly see what I mean.
Absolutely! Being one of those Commercial Boys you refer to, I have a bit of experience in this regard. For every couple of boxes (6-8 to a box for the larger sizes) you'll find one, and generally only</u> one that is a True Killer. The rest are usually traded off through the season. Some minor flaw, something different in the way it looks/swims that simply makes it "fishy". Never been able to determine just what that little difference is, but it certainly shows in the catch rate!
Used to get a kick out of asking my clients to pick a plug to try from the rack. Almost without exception, they would select the newest, shiniest looking one on the rack, discarding those that were battle-scarred almost to the point of non-recognition. Occasionally I let them swim the one they chose, but always put the Ol' Beater out beside it. Not hard to guess which one took the fish!
Greatly prefer gear myself. Less muss, less fuss = more time in the water. And as we all know, the terminal that works is the one downstairs!
Cheers,
Nog
M
Mortician
Guest
Ok.
I've observed what ya'll say to be true at one time or another. However could it be that you've been fishing just the killer plugs at the killer depths the most? In some cases when the bite is on, those are the plugs that'll catch the most because they're being fished on the most productive spread.
Anyways, come on over and fish those plugs at our Thrasher/Gulf Islands fishery in about a month here and let's test your theory out on our scare Georgia Strait chinookies and see if the plugs will outfish spoons and bait.
I've observed what ya'll say to be true at one time or another. However could it be that you've been fishing just the killer plugs at the killer depths the most? In some cases when the bite is on, those are the plugs that'll catch the most because they're being fished on the most productive spread.
Anyways, come on over and fish those plugs at our Thrasher/Gulf Islands fishery in about a month here and let's test your theory out on our scare Georgia Strait chinookies and see if the plugs will outfish spoons and bait.
IronNoggin
Well-Known Member
Ummm... Since Slummin' ain't on the agenda just yet, think I'll pass for now...
Nope. Six lines in the water, each running 5 to 7 pieces of gear. When running plugs off the troller, that is pretty well all that is out there as we move a tad too fast for blades. Might toss in the odd large spoon. As pretty well any commercial troller can tell you, a Killer plug will perform better than the rest, regardless of where it is placed in the spread. Sure, the others will catch, especially when the bite is on. But there will always be that one (per box kinda deal) that FAR</u> outshines the rest. Best indication is when you're scratch fishing. The one that is consistent when the others consistently fail is the one you want to keep (ie: tie up with heavier purlong!)
Just the way it is...
Cheers,
Nog
Red Monster
Well-Known Member
Great feedback. Thanks to all! I've got some nice old plug that I plan to try some more. I've yet to catch anything on a plug, but then I've not used them much.
I wonder if you need to use siwash hooks or if I could use stainless hooks with beaks that curl in a bit? These Mustad 95170's I use on spoons and would also work on plugs I think.
I'm also thinking a couple of glow beads between the hook and the plug might be a good idea. That would get the hook closer to the back of the plug.
I love it when folks take the time to explain things. I learn so much more. [8D]
I wonder if you need to use siwash hooks or if I could use stainless hooks with beaks that curl in a bit? These Mustad 95170's I use on spoons and would also work on plugs I think.
I'm also thinking a couple of glow beads between the hook and the plug might be a good idea. That would get the hook closer to the back of the plug.
I love it when folks take the time to explain things. I learn so much more. [8D]
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