Downrigger braid

Agreed - it needs to be replaced every now and then. Still 5 years is better than I ever got from a spool of cable.

Yep, way better than any wire I have run...
even the backing braid was breaking under stress so obviously there's a need to check.
first thing that alerted me was the line color fading out...
 
Interesting, I wonder what the cause would be.............?
Could it be possible you got some poor quality or knock-off braid?
I have run the same braid for many years ( more than 6) with no troubles but my boat is stored in a garage and not subject to the sun unless I am using it.
Do your riggers sit outside all year?
The spectra (dyneema) braids should have little effect form UV up here as tests down south have reviled little affect from UV
This is from PP website on UV resistance:
Spectra® is one of the most UV resistant fibers. The loss of strength depends on the line’s specific construction, but generally the sort of small diameter line used for lifelines will lose about 15% of their tensile strength (=85% of original tensile strength) after 6 months of continuous strong sun exposure (testing in Mexico and Arizona) and at 5 years will retain about 60% of its tensile strength.
Line size should be selected to compensate for this UV reduction in tensile strength. 3/16” stainless wire has a tensile strength around 3800lbs, while 3/16” Spectra® single braid has tensile strength around 5,800lbs. So, picking the same size Spectra® as wire will roughly allow for equal strength after 5 years of intense UV.
 
Definitely not a knock off, it was power pro 200lb.
My boat sits outside covered, but I don't think that would have any bearing
as the braid is not really exposed to U.V.

after 6 months of continuous strong sun exposure (testing in Mexico and Arizona) and at 5 years will retain about 60% of its tensile strength.

Would appear that they acknowledge deterioration over time...
 
I need a link for the #48 stiff Gagnon (spelling) or is it the same as seiner twine?? I want to rework my downrigger setup this winter and do away with the autostops.....
 
Definitely not a knock off, it was power pro 200lb.
My boat sits outside covered, but I don't think that would have any bearing
as the braid is not really exposed to U.V.



Would appear that they acknowledge deterioration over time...
Thats the equivalent to 25 years of the UV radiation we get lol
I guess I gotta keep an eye on mine.
 
Yep, way better than any wire I have run...
even the backing braid was breaking under stress so obviously there's a need to check.
first thing that alerted me was the line color fading out...
Scott,

I am curious why you and Seadna say that braid outlasts stainless cable. Since cable is impervious to UV light, and will not nick or abrade against pulley rims I am at a loss to understand these comments. Simply hosing the cable spool down with freshwater after every trip and you get zero rusting or corrosion. You might get kinks but you can easily clip off a few feet and re-crimp, which sure as hell beats reversing the braid.
I cannot see why it is not possible to get 10 or more years out of stainless cable.....
 
Scotty braid on a scotty rigger and you done. Make sure that if you have riggers that had steel cable on previously there are no groves and sharp points in your pulleys. I also like the tuna cord or scotty has some new leaders to run with the braid also. I tie a big swivel in for the stopper. If you run a metal boat and have a voltage issue the braid help!!
 
Lets not start this again. Every fall and winter the braid vs cable saga continues...If it snapped all the time we all wouldn't be using it.... Use what you like...... I still say that your snapping issue has more to do with the brand of braid you used.... I hate dealing with all the cable crimps and everything with wire stuff myself.

B....bbb..But it is not just me who gets (got) random snapping issues, High Five.! This is what Scott's post is all about for goodness sake!! Only this time he and the posters that followed have identified UV as a the culprit. Go back and read the thread......

So, my question stands. I am still curious as to why Scott believes braid is "way better than any wire I have run". Especially given the latest information provided by other posters of UV deterioration.
 
This thread..........

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Good question English... I am eagerly waiting on the response.......
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After a season or two of fishing hard your wire will be kinked, twisted and it will show rust. When you winter fish and put 200ft of cable out do you really think your rinsing that bottom 100ft of cable that gets wound up under the top 100ft? No your spray down only rinses the surface wire there will be lots of salt held in the spool since you had so much line out. Nobody fishing hard is getting 10 seasons out of wire.

Once your wire starts getting those little frays replace it. Cutting off 15 ft can help but usually new frays develop quickly once the wire starts going. I've had wire snap at the auto stop too - for stacking wire sucks those stops are hard on the line you almost need to kink it to put them on. - but not with braid.

Use what you like but you won't convince a braid guy wire is better they already had that debate and made their choice.
 
So, my question stands. I am still curious as to why Scott believes braid is "way better than any wire I have run". Especially given the latest information provided by other posters of UV deterioration.



Roland, personal preference thats all.
I think I switched the one rigger to braid in '08 (maybe '07)
so I've got 6 full seasons without reversing it.
I never got that with wire, and I don't have to deal with kinking,fraying,rust etc.
 
I switched to braid 7 years ago...never regretted it for a minute. If you're too cheap to replace your line every couple years then expect to lose a few balls.
Can't remember the last lost ball that was anything other than operator error. But to each his own...
 
You can get easy 10 seasons out of a 316 SS wire. Just it is now near impossible to find a 316 wire. All they sell now is cheap 304.
 
I've never gotten more than 2 seasons out of wire on my Scotty down riggers. It frays, it rusts, it kinks etc. I've had far less problems with braid. Your mileage may vary but that has been my experience.
 
so will the Albright knot itself with some shrink wrap act as a auto stop? I would rather not start tying in swivels and I would like something cleaner and smoother looking then FA's overhand loop knots..............but that's just me and my OCD issue...
 
Canon "positive ion control" is making it sound fancy as they are just copying what pro-troll and Scotty have. Probably can't say black box or there get a lawsuit.

I don't believe in this theory as much anymore based on this/last years fishing since I switched. I used to but not so much now.... I do concur that some of the high liners in my area use wire, but they are out there every day on top of the fish daily. Is it the wire? I am not sold 100%, but I would like to think I would be paying more attention to the presentation to not what the DR is doing myself.

BTW most of them that know about voltage don't use boxes they crimp on anodes to manipulate the voltage as well as brushing the balls etc. That includes getting the boat checked grounded properly by someone. Wire will give you a slight edge, but a lot of fishing is technique. No voltage can replace sloppy technique.

Braid is better for me in my boat because I don't have to carry crimp, crimping gear, stops. All I use is braid with the gagnion chord as stops, and no swivels or crap anymore. To me that is the trade-off. The only thing stainless has an advantage is voltage that's it, and too me I would rather have something they easy to work with. On my boat I have a few pre-tied gagnion that can retie and up if I get a break off and running with a minute or so. I could never do that with cable.

Positive Ion Control is used to auto stop the motor on the Cannon downrigger when bringing the line up. When the ss line breaks the water, the motor shuts off. Cannons don't use those little line clips like Scotty to trip the shut off, so without ss line, the Cannon motor won't automatically stop.
 
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