Karma-Kazi
Active Member
Try a trout release clip for the one on the reel might trip easier and be smaller and less bulky!
-Steve (Formerly Fishflyguy)
-Steve (Formerly Fishflyguy)
Down rigger tips
- Thread starter wildthing
- Start date
Finished Business
Well-Known Member
I was thinking too of using the smaller lake (trout) clips for the drag clip as they don't need to hold nearly the tension of the downrigger clip. It seems every boat I fish off (I try to make it as many as possible!!) always has some new modification or method that makes fishing easier. I can't wait until I start putting them to use once my own boat hits the water. fun times I'm sure!
fish stalker
Active Member
what length of leader are you guys running on your downrigger clip? I had two new ones and ones super short and ones super long. I guess long ones for guys with extendable booms or dr's closer to the stern..?
It depends on the length of the boom and the amount of freeboard your boat has etc. as to how far away it is. I use extended booms and like the line to the clip to be just long enough that I can put out my fishing line to the flasher and then take the tip of my rod put it under the release clip line, flip it up and slide the clip down the rod to me so that I can grab it and set my fishing line in the clip. Fast, easy and works well when it is the right length (but does take a little practice) and you don't have to touch the rigger. Each boat is a little different.
You don’t want it longer than you need for that operation as the real long ones tend to wind around the main rigger cable a turn or two and you have to pull on it to unwind it or worse bring in the boom to fix it.
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Hit em Hard
Member
Hello FB
I use this downrigger clip technique all the time - guess where I learned it. Yup you guessed it Todd Highroller. Works great.
h.e.h.
blackvelvet
Member
trendsetter
Active Member
the fog ducker
Well-Known Member
surprised you get a reel creep on that Daiwa
or , is it just for the sake of keeping your drag on loosely ?
interesting though...
fd
or , is it just for the sake of keeping your drag on loosely ?
interesting though...
fd
trendsetter
Active Member
You're right reel creep isn't a problem on these daiwas for me. But this way you can keep the drag a little looser and it's easier to drop the lines down deeper. Just unclip the line release and drop your riggers. Then reclip the line release and you're good to go. No need to adjust the drag in any conditions.
SteelyDan
Well-Known Member
nice tip! Put that one in the memory bank
Englishman
Well-Known Member
Where the hell does one get hold of 200# test mono? I don't think I have ever seen mono above 100# sold anywhere in BC (this is not tuna/swordfish country LOL) and anything beyond that is braid and that usually stops at around 150# (except for downrigger material of course, in short lengths of 300 or 400 feet).
spring fever
Well-Known Member
I use 500 lb mono-PNT_Unbelievable
Gypseas
Active Member
the fog ducker
Well-Known Member
Parksville PNT , where i get mine
fd
fd
tykkyt e blue
Well-Known Member
I sure like the tip about using an extra clip to stop reel creep!
I just came back from Port Renfrew and tried it out. Works Great! I often fish 200' for springs and 240 -250' for Hali on the troll so its a BIG help. Found I could reduce the preset drag by half and still have a good bend in the rod.
Offshore this year ( swiftsure ) the chinook have been mostly mid teens so less drag makes more fun. I use Alvey 4.5 flyreels that have lots of drag range but they are touchy for friends to adjust on the fly if they are not familiar with them since the drag knob is in the 'middle'
Funny thing... Sunday, I decide to fish the beach for mature returners... use the the second clip, set drag half as usual... perfect right?
Along comes a 31 lb and POUNDS the bait - pops both clips so hard the clip bangs on the rear gunnel and startles me..I grab the rod in haste as the light drag lets the reel scream... I haven't bashed my knuckles in years!!! My right index knuckle still bleeds today if I bend it too far - LOL
whee!!!!
I just came back from Port Renfrew and tried it out. Works Great! I often fish 200' for springs and 240 -250' for Hali on the troll so its a BIG help. Found I could reduce the preset drag by half and still have a good bend in the rod.
Offshore this year ( swiftsure ) the chinook have been mostly mid teens so less drag makes more fun. I use Alvey 4.5 flyreels that have lots of drag range but they are touchy for friends to adjust on the fly if they are not familiar with them since the drag knob is in the 'middle'
Funny thing... Sunday, I decide to fish the beach for mature returners... use the the second clip, set drag half as usual... perfect right?
Along comes a 31 lb and POUNDS the bait - pops both clips so hard the clip bangs on the rear gunnel and startles me..I grab the rod in haste as the light drag lets the reel scream... I haven't bashed my knuckles in years!!! My right index knuckle still bleeds today if I bend it too far - LOL
whee!!!!
eaglemaniac
Well-Known Member
Sounds like west coast salmon fishing to me.
eman
eman
Dave S
Active Member
I picked up some security bolts from a specialty hardware supply store in Victoria to replace a couple of the bolts on each of my down rigger swivel mounts. $20 is much cheaper than the scotty locks. And I have a feeling those scotty locks would not like salt. Now I've got to see if I can get something for that long pivot bolt.
Improved safety bumper for the new High Speed Scotty Riggers.
I found it very easy to ram the gear into the pully on a high speed rigger when tapping the button to get the ball out of the water when playing a fish. The rigger has so much power that it can rip the wire right off.
The guy at Scotty suggested that I only use 15 or 20 lb balls on these riggers. I think it helps slow them down just a little which helps.
I have heard of some using up to 3 of the Scotty Bumpers in an effort to cushion the impact of accidently ramming the gear/ball into the pulley. If these impacts don’t cause loss of the gear directly, over time repeated hits will weaken it.
What was really needed was a better bumper and I borrowed an idea from a friend and improved upon it.
You start with a 3 inch length of black 3 quarter inch rubber hose. The kind without a lot of reinforcement in it. Then you cut quarter inch cuts into the ends of the hose. The idea is to cause the hose to flair on the ends upon impact and absorb much of the impact energy. I also cut groves into the center of the hose and ever remove little slivers of the hose. This weakens the hose more and allow it to more easily bend or open up in the center upon impact.
As a result when you ram the gear into the pully (and ever the most careful will do it on occasion) the short hose bumper absorbs much of the shock which I think really does help greatly to reduce tear offs and lost 20lb balls, connectors, releases clips and swivels and lost fishing time.
Also a good idea to periodically cut off and reattach braid or wire before things get worn and fail.
I found it very easy to ram the gear into the pully on a high speed rigger when tapping the button to get the ball out of the water when playing a fish. The rigger has so much power that it can rip the wire right off.
The guy at Scotty suggested that I only use 15 or 20 lb balls on these riggers. I think it helps slow them down just a little which helps.
I have heard of some using up to 3 of the Scotty Bumpers in an effort to cushion the impact of accidently ramming the gear/ball into the pulley. If these impacts don’t cause loss of the gear directly, over time repeated hits will weaken it.
What was really needed was a better bumper and I borrowed an idea from a friend and improved upon it.
You start with a 3 inch length of black 3 quarter inch rubber hose. The kind without a lot of reinforcement in it. Then you cut quarter inch cuts into the ends of the hose. The idea is to cause the hose to flair on the ends upon impact and absorb much of the impact energy. I also cut groves into the center of the hose and ever remove little slivers of the hose. This weakens the hose more and allow it to more easily bend or open up in the center upon impact.
As a result when you ram the gear into the pully (and ever the most careful will do it on occasion) the short hose bumper absorbs much of the shock which I think really does help greatly to reduce tear offs and lost 20lb balls, connectors, releases clips and swivels and lost fishing time.
Also a good idea to periodically cut off and reattach braid or wire before things get worn and fail.
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