Down rigger tips

I have been using DHA's pro rigs from PNT for two years now and love them. They are made with the blue tuna cord. He makes them up with 20 feet of tuna cord so you just use the old Scotty release clips right on the cord. Hold like crazy with no slippage. There is a little bit more blow back due to so much tuna cord but in reality not enough to worry about.
 
well sorted out my 15lb pancake's from a good mate

as running the false flasher (bottom hole) and the bottom release clip(top hole) off the fin plate

i got some cord so have approx 5'-6' on the end attached loop to loop to my main scooty DR Braid

and then looped the end cord as well thus attaching a scotty coastal lok with bumper rubber above

tried the downrigger out at the dock and the loop knot just in the scotty Braid knocked off the auto retrieve so really no need for the orange stoppers now as when it hits the cord loop knot will sure knock it off.
on my chord i used that same knot but in the link but only 3 passes it shows 4 for ultra braids which is what i used in the scotty DR braid

the great thing about doing the loop to loop is its fairly easy to change things as if any thing show's wear & tear, carry a few extra bottoms abroad and swap out

on my bottom release clips there 6'long of 250lb mono as i fish with the booms out and use a boat hook to bring them in

have also fitted the weight retrievers on so when i am going to try out the stacking clips i can pull the DR braid in attach and set it back out to get the stacked top rod fishing

i'll post a few pics when i get back down the dock and get some fishing in
but its looking bleak at the moment....lol just snowing bits in Gibson's
 
Hey thanks for the advice on the knots guys, will try them for sure. Really like the bigmeal setup, would be really slick to get the ball up to the pulley and out of the way when netting. Gonna rig it up to try this winter.
 
I saw the show that Bgmeal is talking about and ran that set up all summer. The only balls that went for a swim were the ones my buddy lost cause he didn't like the way I had them set up. Took the boat out changed to his way and lost two balls in two trips. Now he loves the new way. Funny how that works.
 
This is a variation of the tuna cord version that I make up...it is using 300lbs mono. I use a small bearing swivel at the head to clear the pulley and act as a stop. Add two inline brass crimps to use as locators a bumper at the thimble and a three way swivel to an snap for the ball. The three way is free to use as a dummy location or a release line, just change up to suite your needs.

WP_000758.jpg
 
Put a new weight on my downrigger the other day, put it over the side and it just kept going. :-( think it is time for new wire. Looks like this line is breaking down. Has not been replaced for six years. Has anyone found one SS better than others. I have had success with Black box so want to continue.
 
I recently acquired my first electric downrigger from another member on here. It was an older 30" model. I wanted a longer boom so I stopped in at metal supermarkets and bought a 48" stainless steel boom 1" diameter. $21 after tax. Then grabbed the end plug thingy needed to mount the pulley onto the boom. Scotty hooked me up with that. Drilled the holes needed to mount it to the rigger. Saved me some bucks for sure.
DSC_0543.JPG
 
DHA said:
This is a variation of the tuna cord version that I make up...it is using 300lbs mono. I use a small bearing swivel at the head to clear the pulley and act as a stop. Add two inline brass crimps to use as locators a bumper at the thimble and a three way swivel to an snap for the ball. The three way is free to use as a dummy location or a release line, just change up to suite your needs.

View attachment 2422
Click to expand...

Good idea to change out the barrell swivell every couple of months, they eventually break causing catastrophic gear loss.
 
just got my new electrics all rigged up. i used the tuna cord set up and like it already. i have 60 inch booms and ball retrievers. was wondering what length of releases work best right off the ball. the ones that come with it seem a little short.
 
bardfromedson said:
just got my new electrics all rigged up. i used the tuna cord set up and like it already. i have 60 inch booms and ball retrievers. was wondering what length of releases work best right off the ball. the ones that come with it seem a little short.
Click to expand...

48-60" releases - long enough to reach the boat and hold in your hand with the ball out
 
Dusting off an oldy but a goody....

I was out on a guide boat recently and saw a modification that has still got me impressed.
I can't stand, and I'm sure many agree...the "tick tick tick" sound that your reel makes as it ever so slowly releases more line when hooked up on the down rigger. I assume that it is due to blow back of your mainline.

Prior to this 'new to me' (I have yet to see anyone use it but the guide) we would crank down the drags until the ticking stopped and the reel was quiet. Problem with that is the drag is set far to tight when adjusting downrigger depth, or when a big fish grabs on and gives it a pull.

The mod is simple. You simply clip a Scotty down rigger clip just in front of the reel, attached to your mainline. The clip must be attached to a fixed position on the boat (down rigger boom, grab rail, cleat, ect...)

I will include a picture, but this method is awesome. You never need to adjust your drag. Simply set your drag to a tension that allows you to drop the ball without breaking off on the way down. Once at depth, clip the fixed Scotty "drag clip" in front of your reel. The clip will hold your mainline in one position, with no more blow back or the more than annoying 'tick tick tick'. When a big fish breaks it off the clip, the clip in front of your reel should pop off too. On smaller fish you simply detach the fixed clip in front of your reel and begin the fight from there.

One other method I learned from the guide was, rather than reeling down, and yanking on the rod to free it from the clip (at the risk of breaking rods, as the convergence is notorious for this it sounds), simply engage the down rigger and drop the ball while holding the reel. It will pop off smoothly and you can begin fighting the fish.

It sounds like a lot of extra work, but with a bit of method and practice, it becomes very efficient.

The easiest is if a big fish bites and pops both clips (the one on the down rigger and the "drag clip"), but when dealing with smaller fish, here's a few steps to make it work fluently.

1. smaller fish bites 2. unclip drag clip 3. remove rod from holder, hold reel steady 4. drop down rigger a few feet (or until rod pops). 5. begin fighting!

the process takes less than a few seconds. No fish were lost, and it really smooths things out.

I'm sure many will say all of that is a waste of time, but I found it quite efficient. Within a few fish, I had the method down.


PS used the Tuna Cord system for the first time on the Sculpin. Awesome set-up that is!
 

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dropped the tuna cord , now use heavy mono , think its 120 or 150 lb test
,2 crimps , no swivel , palomar knot from the braid
( mono loop and crimp acts as the bead for the auto stop, slick !!

less parts , smoooooth... i bet the mano will outlast the tuna cord ! bowt the same diameter ,
scotty clip holds TIGHT on the mono as well



thx Rob... go see em at PNT , set ya up...

fd
 
You don't use anything to protect the mono from the braided knot? I worry the braided line will cut through my parachute cord I would be really worried about the mono. Same with release clips they don't damage the mono? How often do you change that peice of line? I take it you don't bother with a snubber if your using a mono leader to the ball. So many options!
 
only tried n tested for a week , but ,

put on some SERIOUS Hard hours in that week , bouncin , draggin in mud , dropping down 300 feet etc...
think i even bonked a Humpy once or twice lol..

in the past , ive told guys , that after alot of hours , the 3/0 or 4/0 swivel fails ,braid ta tuna-cord junction ( now mono ) ,
eventually the swivel opens up , , ka plunk , say good bye ta all ur gear..
Mono still looks brand new , NO the braid does not cut into the mono , NO , the scotty clips dont cut into the mono, no I dont worry ,
i expect ta lose gear from time to time ,
kinda like the elasticity of the mono , less stress on the knots and ball hook , kinda like a snubber...
might eventually try getting rid of the ball hook too , just make a big enuff loop , with a crimp , to go through the dr ball eye ,
and drop the ball through the loop you just created !
pretty sure that is how a few guys roll , no ball hook !

just passin on new ideas to anyone who is lookin ,
this was passed down to us from a Commy that Rob knows ( PNT )

my next 1 week outting should tell me a good story , maybe end back up with Tuna cord , well see...

time will tell how long the mono lasts , its THICK stuff , dont see it bein a prob..
just sayun..

gd lk

fd
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Finished Business said:
Dusting off an oldy but a goody....

I was out on a guide boat recently and saw a modification that has still got me impressed.
I can't stand, and I'm sure many agree...the "tick tick tick" sound that your reel makes as it ever so slowly releases more line when hooked up on the down rigger. I assume that it is due to blow back of your mainline.

Prior to this 'new to me' (I have yet to see anyone use it but the guide) we would crank down the drags until the ticking stopped and the reel was quiet. Problem with that is the drag is set far to tight when adjusting downrigger depth, or when a big fish grabs on and gives it a pull.

The mod is simple. You simply clip a Scotty down rigger clip just in front of the reel, attached to your mainline. The clip must be attached to a fixed position on the boat (down rigger boom, grab rail, cleat, ect...)

I will include a picture, but this method is awesome. You never need to adjust your drag. Simply set your drag to a tension that allows you to drop the ball without breaking off on the way down. Once at depth, clip the fixed Scotty "drag clip" in front of your reel. The clip will hold your mainline in one position, with no more blow back or the more than annoying 'tick tick tick'. When a big fish breaks it off the clip, the clip in front of your reel should pop off too. On smaller fish you simply detach the fixed clip in front of your reel and begin the fight from there.

One other method I learned from the guide was, rather than reeling down, and yanking on the rod to free it from the clip (at the risk of breaking rods, as the convergence is notorious for this it sounds), simply engage the down rigger and drop the ball while holding the reel. It will pop off smoothly and you can begin fighting the fish.

It sounds like a lot of extra work, but with a bit of method and practice, it becomes very efficient.

The easiest is if a big fish bites and pops both clips (the one on the down rigger and the "drag clip"), but when dealing with smaller fish, here's a few steps to make it work fluently.

1. smaller fish bites 2. unclip drag clip 3. remove rod from holder, hold reel steady 4. drop down rigger a few feet (or until rod pops). 5. begin fighting!

the process takes less than a few seconds. No fish were lost, and it really smooths things out.

I'm sure many will say all of that is a waste of time, but I found it quite efficient. Within a few fish, I had the method down.


PS used the Tuna Cord system for the first time on the Sculpin. Awesome set-up that is!
Click to expand...

That's one of the best ideas that I've heard or seen in a long time. That gives me something to do with my short releases that I never use.
Dave
 
vetteman said:
That's one of the best ideas that I've heard or seen in a long time. That gives me something to do with my short releases that I never use.
Dave
Click to expand...

Booyah! All techniques I learned from Highroller charters. Seasoned Pro's run those rigs!
 
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