What Did You Do To Your Boat This Week?

She would never notice that hanging off the back of the boat


Every husband makes one stupid mistake...I bought a new camera and didn't tell my wife.

She found out when a friend asked her how I was enjoying my new camera at a dinner she was at.

It would have been easier to remember to tell her I bought the camera than to forget to tell her. It is now a running joke in our marriage, well I don't think it is that funny, but she can make me squirm (to her delight) when she mentions the camera.

The boat build costs are tallied on her spreadsheet and she is well versed on every cost.
 
Every husband makes one stupid mistake...I bought a new camera and didn't tell my wife.

She found out when a friend asked her how I was enjoying my new camera at a dinner she was at.

It would have been easier to remember to tell her I bought the camera than to forget to tell her. It is now a running joke in our marriage, well I don't think it is that funny, but she can make me squirm (to her delight) when she mentions the camera.

The boat build costs are tallied on her spreadsheet and she is well versed on every cost.
Sometimes it’s easier to ask for forgiveness than permission ;). So what would you guys go with… reliable 300 Yamaha, merc with 8 cylinders and lots of torque or the Suzuki with dual prop? It was not an easy decision… I really like what the Suzuki and merc offer but thought the Yammy was more “eye candy” and a better resale?
 
After purchasing a new-to-me SeaSport 22 a year ago, I’ve completely ripped it apart and replaced all the 20 year old electronics and equipment. In the spring we replaced the Volvo Penta 5.0 with a near new fuel injected 5.7. Love the new engine for cruising with the family but hate it for fishing… so I just put a deposit on a 2021 Yamaha 300 (I forgot to tell my wife and she found the receipt and was a bit shocked to say the least). I called around and not many 300 outboards left on the island! Jenkins is doing the pod and fibreglass work this fall. Huge chunk of $$ wasted on the 5.7 and even more for the yam 300 but I’m sure I’ll keep it for years…
What did you do with the 5.7 Volvo ?
Thinking of selling if you still have it ?
Thanks
D
 
My Honda kicker seemed to be revving high on my last trip. It would troll slow enough, but when we got a fish on, it wouldn't slow much so I had to take it out of gear, which is okay too.
Anyway, I ran it in my barrel with saltaway for a good while then started playing with the two idle screws- no change.
Took the carb off, cleaned with wires, air, Seafoam. Put it back on -no change.
Loosened the screw knob that holds the throttle at one speed- problem solved.
This is one of the many things that I have known, but forgot. I can't remember the rest at the moment.
 
Started to clean up some wiring. More to do but it’s a start! In this case there were too many connections to the neg battery terminal.

I still need to clean some stuff up at the switch, and at the helm, will get there soon. One thing at a time :)

Before and after pics. Should be obvious which is which.

(And before you ask why I chose the bus bar with 20 connections, its cause it was lightly used and half the price of a new one with 10 connections. Lots of room to expand, although, I doubt I will ever need anywhere near all those connections)

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Started to clean up some wiring. More to do but it’s a start! In this case there were too many connections to the neg battery terminal.

I still need to clean some stuff up at the switch, and at the helm, will get there soon. One thing at a time :)

Before and after pics. Should be obvious which is which.

(And before you ask why I chose the bus bar with 20 connections, its cause it was lightly used and half the price of a new one with 10 connections. Lots of room to expand, although, I doubt I will ever need anywhere near all those connections)

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Looks good and that’s exactly what I will be doing on my boat over the winter for exactly the same reason, too many connections to the main battery. Any advice on what worked or what you would do better? Thanks.
 
Started to clean up some wiring. More to do but it’s a start! In this case there were too many connections to the neg battery terminal.

I still need to clean some stuff up at the switch, and at the helm, will get there soon. One thing at a time :)

Before and after pics. Should be obvious which is which.

(And before you ask why I chose the bus bar with 20 connections, its cause it was lightly used and half the price of a new one with 10 connections. Lots of room to expand, although, I doubt I will ever need anywhere near all those connections)

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I think you should tackle that mold on the plywood....
 
I bought a used montauk 17 yesterday and this is what I did to it today. It all was fine. I just demand better quality and enjoy doing itView attachment 70296

One of the best tools I found for heatshrinking the new wire is a heatgun from Canadian tire. Before that I was using a propane torch lol. Just did my electrical its good to know its tinned wire and fused properly. Used only inline fuses seem to be more rugged than fuse panels. Once a year spray the bus bars with fogging oil or something similar
 
One of the best tools I found for heatshrinking the new wire is a heatgun from Canadian tire. Before that I was using a propane torch lol. Just did my electrical its good to know its tinned wire and fused properly. Used only inline fuses seem to be more rugged than fuse panels. Once a year spray the bus bars with fogging oil or something similar
Ya I have a quality one. I redid my last whaler and it turned out great. Even flew up to my job in Alberta with my battery leads in my carry on to use the hydraulic crimper for terminal connections.

I definitely have more time into working on my boats than I do driving them, but I enjoy the modifying just as much. Great rainy day projects.
 
Added helm and deck boxes for the USB chargers. I'm a an advanced carpenter so was real easy. The helm I have a sheet of plexiglass ill cut on the table saw. So the slat is temporary. That way I can look at vessel view on my phone. Counter sink and attach plexiglass 11x6".

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Anchor rode got really beat up from boat camping all summer. Cut out the last chain link that was starting to get corroded. Also, tried out a new rope to anchor splice. Much more tapered then a normal 3-strand back-splice....goes through my electric windlass without jamming. Look at the chain link—-only two strands instead of three....some guys freak out when they see that, thinking that you’ve just weakend the anchor rope by 33% by cutting out the third strand

To the contrary, if you study the concept of a basketed load, you’ll see that the orientation of those two strands almost doubles the strength of the original twisted 3 strand (!)

Also, installed new Crosby shackle with cotter pin...hoping it won’t bind on the roller flanges the way the screw-in pin of the last shackle did

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Started to clean up some wiring. More to do but it’s a start! In this case there were too many connections to the neg battery terminal.

I still need to clean some stuff up at the switch, and at the helm, will get there soon. One thing at a time :)

Before and after pics. Should be obvious which is which.

(And before you ask why I chose the bus bar with 20 connections, its cause it was lightly used and half the price of a new one with 10 connections. Lots of room to expand, although, I doubt I will ever need anywhere near all those connections)

View attachment 70125View attachment 70126
You can never have too much wire it makes it more rigid. Nice bus bar can fit bigger terminal connectors if you remove a few screws.

Added a washdown pump and it added padding for my loose bilge pump. Second bilge on a 1" composite board. So more wire hoses gives support and is convenient.

Problem with mine is if I drop one screw or nut it disappears into the bilge never to be seen again lol. Need to put a tray under it.
 
Anchor rode got really beat up from boat camping all summer. Cut out the last chain link that was starting to get corroded. Also, tried out a new rope to anchor splice. Much more tapered then a normal 3-strand back-splice....goes through my electric windlass without jamming. Look at the chain link—-only two strands instead of three....some guys freak out when they see that, thinking that you’ve just weakend the anchor rope by 33% by cutting out the third strand

To the contrary, if you study the concept of a basketed load, you’ll see that the orientation of those two strands almost doubles the strength of the original twisted 3 strand (!)

Also, installed new Crosby shackle with cotter pin...hoping it won’t bind on the roller flanges the way the screw-in pin of the last shackle did

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Yeah, I've rigged for cranes and your basket logic is not relevant. What is? The very small rope radius around the chain link creates a weak connection. Freak out? No but I wouldn't trust it. That's why we use thimbles.

Rope is weakened when loaded around a small radius. The fibers on the outside carry more load than those on the inside, which may actually be slack, doing no work at all. This effect is customarily mitigated by changing the ratio of the rope diameter (D) to the diameter of the shackle pin (d) or chain link, in your case. D/d ratios of at least 8 are recommended to adequately cope with the loads and the greater potential for chafe.

A proper anchor splice - rope to chain - is made directly into the chain with 8 plait so the transition passes into the winch, smoothly and the rode strength remains intact. The 8 plait also flakes neatly into the anchor locker.
 
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Yeah, I've rigged for cranes and your basket logic is not relevant. What is? The very small rope radius around the chain link creates a weak connection. Freak out? No but I wouldn't trust it. That's why we use thimbles.

Rope is weakened when loaded around a small radius. The fibers on the outside carry more load than those on the inside, which may actually be slack, doing no work at all. This effect is customarily mitigated by changing the ratio of the rope diameter (D) to the diameter of the shackle pin (d) or chain link, in your case. D/d ratios of at least 8 are recommended to adequately cope with the loads and the greater potential for chafe.

A proper anchor splice - rope to chain - is made directly into the chain with 8 plait so the transition passes into the winch, smoothly and the rode strength remains intact. The 8 plait also flakes neatly into the anchor locker.
YES! Science.
 
YES! Science.
Boats, ropes, knots and splices have been used by sea-faring people for thousands of years. All our recent rope innovations have been in the synthetic fibers: nylon, polyester and dyneema, for example. Common knots and splices have been explored, examined, tested and then widely adopted over many years only because they are proven to work consistently well under severe, maritime conditions. If you have a novel concept for a knot or a splice, before employing it, perhaps ask yourself " Why has no one ever done this before?"

This rope to chain splice is proven to retain 100% of the rope strength and passes through a windlass.
 
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I took some plexiglass and cut it with a 60 tooth chop saw. The first pic is fitting it up and as I was drilling the top holes it shattered and dislocated my elbow. Very easy to Crack so you drill bit has to be semi new but not so sharp it catches. What you want to do is melt it. I fitted the third sheet lol. Dremel works good to enlarge the screw holes. So I have 6 2" screws going through the glass and into the 3/4 ply behind the console.

Some people template the console and recess a fish finder into it. What if you change finders? This way I can put my main vessel view mobile behind the glass. Smokes fishing licenses as well. Even put a few stickers on the glass.

Last picture is a tug towing a smaller tug by grace Island from my house.

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