Trying To Improve At Fishing. Please Help!

Try fishing with the solunar tables and when it is slow fish across the tide. That way more fish see your offerings than going with or against the tide. Works for me.
 
Try fishing with the solunar tables and when it is slow fish across the tide. That way more fish see your offerings than going with or against the tide. Works for me.
Reading tides is also one aspect I need practice on. I usually just get to my spot, stop the boat and see which way it pulls me.
 
M
Reading tides is also one aspect I need practice on. I usually just get to my spot, stop the boat and see which way it pulls me.
My Lowrance chart plotter has a tide button which shows you what the tide is doing
 
Keep a journal. Doesn’t matter if it’s fresh or salt, fish have seasonal as well as daily patterns, as the season changes, so does the bait: locations, depths, species, size, etc. Your local ares won’t fish the same on every tide or morning vs mid-day vs evening. Keeping a journal helps a lot of folks figure out what works in their local area by season, time of day, tide, what bait is available, what depths tend to work, etc.

Working out these “patterns” is particularly important if you have limited time and short fishing windows, as you won’t have the luxury of sorting through various options and locations to figure out a pattern daily. You also dont have the time in a short window to “stick and stay to make it pay”, aka as grinding out tried and true location, depth, bait etc until fish show up or “turn on”.

There’s a reason seasoned locals and guides produce, they’ve paid their dues over many seasons to earn the knowledge that gives them the best starting point in any given season or on any given day.

Cheers!

Ukee
 
Don’t over think it, find a spoon, a hoochie, a plug, and a teaser head that works for you and fish the **** out of them . I highly disagree with guys constantly changing out their gear for minor changes in colour that I don’t believe make a difference . All the top rods fish the same gear day in day out, regardless of what they post to make gimmicky Gibbs Delta happy.
 
Don’t over think it, find a spoon, a hoochie, a plug, and a teaser head that works for you and fish the **** out of them . I highly disagree with guys constantly changing out their gear for minor changes in colour that I don’t believe make a difference . All the top rods fish the same gear day in day out, regardless of what they post to make gimmicky Gibbs Delta happy.
I don't know how many times I have been with guys that fish everything in there tackle box and not catch a thing. Main reason being their gear is never in the water long enough. I've even seen guys change up gear just after they catch something. Guys will ask me to come fishing with them and all my gear fits in a lunch bag. They'll ask me where my gear is and I just point to my lunch bag. lol
 
Learn how to mooch properly.

Prospect, prospect, prospect. My old Straits chart from the 1970's is well worn but has tons of productive areas marked along with lineups and compass bearings inked on. (No GPS back then and most of us could not afford Loran).

Keep a log book, note tides & currents, locations, bait sighted, what the fish were caught on, anything special. Stomach contents also.

After a few years you will be able to predict where to go.

And I use proven gear. If the stuff below is not working, I move to another of my "holes".

When I am mooching I take three sizes of bait. Small 3 to 4 inch "firecrackers", the standard 6 inch, and some big guys up to 10 inches long. Firecrackers have caught for me when the fish would not touch a 6 inch.

If anyone is interested I will unwind the setup below and explain. Most of the Chinook I have caught have been within 10 feet of the bottom.
enhance



Downrigging: This setup has worked for me since about 1979. Still produces!!!

enhance


enhance



enhance



Ummm dynomite on feeder Chinook!!! 18 to 20 feet behind the downrigger wire.

LgWsdWU.jpg


I normally run the flasher/hoochie within 10 feet of the bottom and the plug the same.

My productive areas are drop off ledges that run down to 4oo or so feet deep, I usually fish where the bottom is 160 to 200 feet deep.

60 pound Yama Mono leaders to the flashers and plugs, same for the hoochie leader.

nmovVlK.jpg
 
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Don’t over think it, find a spoon, a hoochie, a plug, and a teaser head that works for you and fish the **** out of them . I highly disagree with guys constantly changing out their gear for minor changes in colour that I don’t believe make a difference . All the top rods fish the same gear day in day out, regardless of what they post to make gimmicky Gibbs Delta happy.


Yes!!! I have sorted out what works for me, if I am not getting hits I move to one of my other locations. Find the right stuff and have faith in it. I am still using gear I bought in the 1980's.
 
The third picture with the weights, can you explain what your doing there. Thanks and thanks for your good tips.
 
Learn how to mooch properly.

Prospect, prospect, prospect. My old Straits chart from the 1970's is well worn but has tons of productive areas marked along with lineups and compass bearings inked on. (No GPS back then and most of us could not afford Loran).

Keep a log book, note tides & currents, locations, bait sighted, what the fish were caught on, anything special. Stomach contents also.

After a few years you will be able to predict where to go.

And I use proven gear. If the stuff below is not working, I move to another of my "holes".

When I am mooching I take three sizes of bait. Small 3 to 4 inch "firecrackers", the standard 6 inch, and some big guys up to 10 inches long. Firecrackers have caught for me when the fish would not touch a 6 inch.

If anyone is interested I will unwind the setup below and explain. Most of the Chinook I have caught have been within 10 feet of the bottom.
enhance



Downrigging: This setup has worked for me since about 1979. Still produces!!!

enhance


enhance



enhance



Ummm dynomite on feeder Chinook!!! 18 to 20 feet behind the downrigger wire.

LgWsdWU.jpg


I normally run the flasher/hoochie within 10 feet of the bottom and the plug the same.

My productive areas are drop off ledges that run down to 4oo or so feet deep, I usually fish where the bottom is 160 to 200 feet deep.

60 pound Yama Mono leaders to the flashers and plugs, same for the hoochie leader.

nmovVlK.jpg
And can you please un ravel the mooching leader so we can take a look? Great post btw!
 
Learn how to mooch properly.

Prospect, prospect, prospect. My old Straits chart from the 1970's is well worn but has tons of productive areas marked along with lineups and compass bearings inked on. (No GPS back then and most of us could not afford Loran).

Keep a log book, note tides & currents, locations, bait sighted, what the fish were caught on, anything special. Stomach contents also.

After a few years you will be able to predict where to go.

And I use proven gear. If the stuff below is not working, I move to another of my "holes".

When I am mooching I take three sizes of bait. Small 3 to 4 inch "firecrackers", the standard 6 inch, and some big guys up to 10 inches long. Firecrackers have caught for me when the fish would not touch a 6 inch.

If anyone is interested I will unwind the setup below and explain. Most of the Chinook I have caught have been within 10 feet of the bottom.
enhance



Downrigging: This setup has worked for me since about 1979. Still produces!!!

enhance


enhance



enhance



Ummm dynomite on feeder Chinook!!! 18 to 20 feet behind the downrigger wire.

LgWsdWU.jpg


I normally run the flasher/hoochie within 10 feet of the bottom and the plug the same.

My productive areas are drop off ledges that run down to 4oo or so feet deep, I usually fish where the bottom is 160 to 200 feet deep.

60 pound Yama Mono leaders to the flashers and plugs, same for the hoochie leader.

nmovVlK.jpg
I really don't think you have enough 602 plugs
 
Stizzla I think you should win SFBC posts of the year. Anyway one thing I learned this year is I now leave my UV flashers in the light for a half hour before dunking them as it seems to bring back the UV. Likely everyone else knows this already but it works for me. Also Mako's hoochie rig is what I am using too, most likely I found it in an old post of his...pretty much instant increase in success.

Oh and the number one thing I've learned is friends don't let friends use ****** swivels. Life is too short for that.
 
As I understand it UV blades wont hold a charge, they just reflect UV light, which happens to penetrate the water column deeper than the regular sunlight we see. Glow tape will hold a charge, so you should be charging that if anything. Test it out in a dark room!
 
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