Trailer spindle nut

[scott craven]

My trailer hubs needed a 1/4 turn on the spindle nut to snug up some slack.
problem is that the drilled shaft end now doesn't line up for the cotter pin.
Is the castle nut holding the hub likely to back off without the pin through the spindle end ?

 

[tykkyt e blue]

Just MHO - never run hubs with no cotter pin, bearings can and will creep in the hub. Relying on the tabbed washer to stop the rotation from turning the spindle nut right off is pretty risky to me - find a plain washer to space the nut out to the spindle hole, or bend 'C' shape into cotter pin - something!

 

[gungadin]

A quarter turn is 90º, the castellated nut should line up with the hole in the shaft a couple of times, maybe not tight but close. Do not leave out the cotter pin.

 

[scott craven]

Ok thanks, I think I'm wrong in saying 1/4 turn, more like an 1/8

 

[Reel Gone]

If necessary as mentioned use a washer to space it. Cotter pin is a must! If between holes I would back it off to the next one and double check to see that it isn't good enough there, it likely will be.

 

[scott craven]

ended up pulling the hub off and the inner bearing was shot...
the cage had disintegrated and the rollers were floating around loose.
replaced the entire hub.

p.s. Rockwell American is made in China

 

[gungadin]

Now you can replace the bearings in the old hub C/W seal and
have a spare to replace the other side should you break down ar roadside

 

[scott craven]

Good idea, thats what I'll do..

 

[Dave S]

Having a complete hub with bearings, rim and rubber is a great idea. I should get on that too. Where'd you get the hub from Craven? How much?

 

[scott craven]

Princess Auto , $50 complete with seals and bearings

 

[1marko]

That's where I go . great price. but don't run the bearings snug. if you go finger tight then back off to the next notch
or you ll add tension to the bearings. tighten as you go but they will prematurely wear out if you over do it.

 

[scott craven]

Do you guys tap in the grease seals so they seat flush with the hub or recessed ?
seemed to me that unless the seals were recessed the bearing would slop around between the race and the seal

 

[1marko]

the seals should be fully seated in the hub and then slide with and onto the axel. add bearing buddies to the outside which
allows you to pump in more grease as you go and push out whatever water that had found space to sit in.

now how about my squeak in the tree. its driving me nuts...

 

[casper5280]

If I where you I would put on a stainless speedy sleeve first for the seal to run on. Also make sure your seals are double lipped. You will get way longer life out of your bearings.