trailer advice wanted
- Thread starter dmurph
- Start date
Mike park
Active Member
your boat overall is higher than mine on the trailer looks like you can go down 1 for sure, maybe 2 . Your rear bunks must be adjusted high I don't have that much chine visible..
I was on the top hole on the front and moved it down 2 holes . My boats in storage when I get a chance I'll take a photo ...
I was on the top hole on the front and moved it down 2 holes . My boats in storage when I get a chance I'll take a photo ...
Mike park
Active Member
Hi Bucket , I found shore lander trailers posted an adjustment guide . Like most people 10% tongue weight is a general guideline for a general trailer .
There are specific guidelines for a boat trailer you will find both 10% and 5% listed from my research for a tandem boat trailer 5- 7% is considered ideal .
A boat trailer usually has a single reach beam that couples to the truck, where a travel trailer will have an A frame beam which may have something to do with it as well.
I towed 7500 lbs 5000 Km on 1 trip so I got used to 750 lbs tongue weight , got home weighed each axle on a truck scale found the front axle had 2/3 the weight .
I moved the axles forward as a set real easy to do . I think it was 8-10 " to get 460 Lbs tongue weight , the front tires still showed more load than the rear but better , so I reset the front bunk height to lower the hull which put more weight onto the rear axle which I wanted.
After adjusting I Drove through the Rockies on Hwy 3 went to Gold River and back defiantly would not want to go back to 10%.
On the cross Canada trip I used a heat gun at every fuel stop to check bearing temperatures and tire temperatures took 1 minute. I had to run 45- 50 Psi on the rear tires and 65 front to get even temperatures due to the different load on each axle . Now they run the same and show even wear .
A cheap heat gun is a handy trailer tool.
I have no experience with the effect of the extension on your setup sounds long to me is it a forged bar . whats the rating for that.
I went to a Curt hitch class 5 and forged ball mount to get the higher rating
There are specific guidelines for a boat trailer you will find both 10% and 5% listed from my research for a tandem boat trailer 5- 7% is considered ideal .
A boat trailer usually has a single reach beam that couples to the truck, where a travel trailer will have an A frame beam which may have something to do with it as well.
I towed 7500 lbs 5000 Km on 1 trip so I got used to 750 lbs tongue weight , got home weighed each axle on a truck scale found the front axle had 2/3 the weight .
I moved the axles forward as a set real easy to do . I think it was 8-10 " to get 460 Lbs tongue weight , the front tires still showed more load than the rear but better , so I reset the front bunk height to lower the hull which put more weight onto the rear axle which I wanted.
After adjusting I Drove through the Rockies on Hwy 3 went to Gold River and back defiantly would not want to go back to 10%.
On the cross Canada trip I used a heat gun at every fuel stop to check bearing temperatures and tire temperatures took 1 minute. I had to run 45- 50 Psi on the rear tires and 65 front to get even temperatures due to the different load on each axle . Now they run the same and show even wear .
A cheap heat gun is a handy trailer tool.
I have no experience with the effect of the extension on your setup sounds long to me is it a forged bar . whats the rating for that.
I went to a Curt hitch class 5 and forged ball mount to get the higher rating
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Mike park
Active Member
Hi Dave found a couple of photos that show. I'm now 3rd hole down from the top on the front and second down from the top on the rear the bunks are about 1 " from each of the Hull strakes .
So when I adjusted the bunks I adjusted the winch post as well.
I might try going down 1 more hole on each this summer not sure but I'm going to add a centering Keel Roller for sure
So when I adjusted the bunks I adjusted the winch post as well.
I might try going down 1 more hole on each this summer not sure but I'm going to add a centering Keel Roller for sure
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Mike park
Active Member
That is a very important point to consider as Steep Ramp angles cause issues . A Centering Keel Roller helps a lot there provided you don't crush it
Mike park
Active Member
I looked at extensions briefly all I saw was a 24 " rated for 7500 towing that's tough to visualize what your using.
Buckethead905
Well-Known Member
I’m more speaking to the idea of 6% tongue weight and your experience with it..
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapters/Reese/RP45018.html
dmurph
Well-Known Member
Mike park
Active Member
I put some info. on post 22 for you
dmurph
Well-Known Member
Mike park
Active Member
I found a couple , I had to zoom in on to see the hole positions . I have to crash work at 5:00 AM
I'll try and send something tomorrow
Buckethead905
Well-Known Member
Sorry Mike, not sure how I missed that! That’s great info, thank you for that. My concern isn’t alleviating any weight from the extension, as it is actually rated for 750lb TW or 7500lb GTW. My concern was reducing the overall payload on the truck. Less tongue weight=less payload.
Mike park
Active Member
probably my rookie mistake for not clicking on the reply button..
My truck is an 07 Chevrolet crew cab 4x4 short box HD2500 300 Lbs made a noticeable difference , one catch it adds to the weight on the trailer GVW.
there is no sway at all tracks great, ever been on HWY 3 it's like driving 800 K to Gold River, I got stuck going that way due to fires burning.
Mike park
Active Member
I noticed it was better but , still had more weight on the front tires, even after sliding the axles ahead about 8 -10 inches can't remember exact dimensions .
I also weighed each axle at the scale individually to see the load on each axle and results of the the adjustment made to tongue weight sliding the axles made 2 trips to get it right.
I also noticed launching the stern would float quite high before the hull would release from the front bunks it was still heavy on the front bunks .
Going down 2 holes noticeably helped I might try 1 more this summer. But as previously mentioned before double check for clearance .
I think our trailers will be fine its open enough in the front.
The angle of the boat ramp makes a difference on the pressure placed on the front bunks so going lower on the front does help if you have room, on mine it put more weight on the rear tires as well which was my primary goal.
pictures won't work but I could zoom to see the hole position mine was 1 hole higher in the front than your rear was the same.
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