Starting a dormant outboard

[Jahfreddy]

Hello SFBC!


I've got an older 9.9 Johnson ['94'ish] which has been a reliable workhorse for many, many southern Gulf Island (Mayne) fun days on the water.

I had the impeller changed 2 years ago and due to many unforeseen circumstances, haven't run her since the change.

I'm a little worried because a buddy did the same and a season later, when he went to start her up, the impeller wasn't moving water. The explanation from the boat mechanic at the time was that because it hadn't been run after the change, it became "stuck" and that's why it basically stripped and wouldn't move water. Apparently the fins/tabs/blades of the impeller were stuck to the housing, and the bearings (or what have you) were spinning freely.

I'm in a situation where the motor has a new impeller, hasn't been run in the 2 years since it was changed, and I'd like to run it this coming weekend.

My question is this - what do I do to prevent the rubber fins of the impeller sticking to housing, stripping/sticking in turn, and avoid having another impeller issue?

I had one mechanic suggest that a little bit of vegetable oil would work (carefully squirted through the water intake screen), in particular because it wouldn't break down any seals, gaskets, etc. because it was a vegetable-based oil.


In a nutshell, I want to be able to run my engine but don't want to screw up an impeller and be landlocked.


As always, any and all responses are most welcome.


Many thanks and tight lines!

 

[Labman2]

Would it be worth the effort to open it up the lower unit and lube the impeller?
I'm not familiar with the mechanics involved, but that way you would be certain it was lubed well.

 

[SteelyDan]

Run it in a bucket with some liquid dish soap. Should free right up

 

[trendsetter]

The impeller in an outboard motor leg is water lubricated. They don't need any type of additional lubrication. There aren't any bearings in there either. It's a simple rubber finned impeller with a brass ring and a pin to hold it in place. If the motor turns over then the impeller is not stuck.

The bucket idea with dish soap is the only suggestion I'd try here but I don't think even that it required. Make sure that water is flowing through the leg on muffs or the leg is submerged in water covering the water intakes completely before starting.

If it doesn't start pumping water in the first 30 seconds of running shut it off. It's far more likely that something is clogging one of the water passages or the nozzle where the tell tale stream comes out.

 

[fish stalker]

If it doesn't start pumping water in the first 30 seconds of running shut it off. It's far more likely that something is clogging one of the water passages or the nozzle where the tell tale stream comes out.

what the best way to clear those if that happens?



ya Mayne Island!!!!

 

[Gunsmith]

Use air in the telltale inlet, my suggestion is fire it up and check it out if it doesn't work the replacement kit is cheap and should not take more than an hour for you to replace. Instructions come with the impellor kit.

what the best way to clear those if that happens?



ya Mayne Island!!!!

 

[Seafever]

You can blow out the nozzle with a shot of compressed air.

I had a motor that sat for ages and spiders got into the outflow hole on the outboard and plugged it up.

Thought I needed an impeller.........took the mechanic about 30 seconds to clear it.


Tilt the outboard up and get some water up into the leg with a garden hose as a sort of pre-soak before you start it.

if it hasn't been run for that long you might want to spray some penetrating oil into the cylinders and leave it overnight (if it's a two stroke). It'll burn off when you start it later.

You can score the cylinders up if you don't. At the very least try turning the engine a few revolutions by hand before you start it just to free up the pistons/rings.

It is a good idea to "fog" it whenever it's going to be doing nothing for a long time too.

I don't know about impellers 'sticking" to the inside.........but I do know that they will take a 'set' if not used much......in other words the impeller blades, although they are rubber, will 'set' into a curved positon and then not work properly.

when not used the impeller tends to dry out ......best thing you can do is run it every month or so with earmuffs or bucket....even if you are not using it on a boat.

 

[Island Fish Lifter]

JUst start it and go fishing. The impellor is only 2 years old. It will be fine.

 

[Island Fish Lifter]

And Impellors do not "dry out". THeyre rubber.

 

[Seafever]

Yep...they're rubber compound.......but they seem to last longer when exposed to water frequently.....

They do dry out in a sense.....maybe the water keeps 'em more supple....

And depending on what brand of impeller he bought (O.E.M. or cheapo aftermarket) will determine whether it hardened up some more from none-use.

Some of the aftermarket brands (and even certain O.E.M. ones) are notorius for having used dirt-cheap rubber compounds when they made them.

The longer they sit inactive the more they "set".

 

[High Velocity]

The longer they sit inactive the more they "set".

This is very true. Last summer, I helped a friend get his 18 ft boat ready for a trip to Sheridan Lake. He had owned the boat for two years at this point, but had not used it. The friend he bought the boat from had receipts showing the impeller had been replaced within one year of my buddy buying it. I got the boat serviced and ready to go. We were at Sheridan for four days and each day, the boat started running hotter. When we got home, I ripped into the impeller and found only one impeller blade still intact. After this, my feelings are, that if the boat has been stored more than 1-2 years, replace the impeller. The parts are relatively cheap and easy to replace compared to ruining a fishing trip. Rubber or not, these impellers do take a "set" and for the price of a few parts, it's not worth taking the risk.




Sent from my iPad when I should be fishing.

 

[Jahfreddy]

Wow! Great suggestions All! Many thanks!


I didn't check out the thread until now, and there's a pile of good info already!

Cheers to SFBC first and foremost!

I can see how something rubber would "set" or sort of retain a shape if left there long enough. I don't want to go through the trouble of changing the impeller if I don't have to, that's for sure.

As far as the telltail being clogged, I've definitely heard that often enough that it can be a concern in my case.

When the suggestion was given to give it a shot of air, would you just pull the discharge hose inside and blow it out from there? How far would spiders make it inside - the bastards!?!?!

I like the idea of giving the impeller a "pre-soak" of sorts, and will consider the dishsoap idea. A boat mechanic friend of a friend of a friend suggested using vegetable oil through intake as a winterizing thing because vegetable based oils won't ruin seals, gaskets, etc. Anyone heard the same?

Anyway, the motor really isn't worth anything other than what it's worth me, but I like to take care of my stuff and know that the majority of the folks on SFBC do the same.


Keep em coming!


Cheers!!!


As always, thanks for advice, it is VERY much appreciated!~

 

[Jahfreddy]

Hey Fish Stalker, you a Mayne Islander?