Switch from pencil lead/spiltshot to slinkys. They rarely hang up & when they do, you can usually wrangle them loose without too much work. I go through so few of them, I only carry 6-8 extras with me to minimize weight in my vest.
Basically, it is parachute cord, green in most cases, with #4 buck pellets stuffed inside & the ends melted & crimped closed. We hang 'em off a 3 way swivel with a #4 Berkley snap ( getting harder to find now ) & fish 'em the same way you would pencil lead. Biggest advantage is, when they do get hung up, they will generally bend & twist their way loose. Less time rigging lead = more time fishing = more fish hooked.[8D] The only time they break off is when they are caught below a ledge or if your main line is directly rubbing on a rock. Been fishing the Stamp pretty regular since Labor Day & have only gone through two of them. I DO change the 3 way swivel after every trip, but that is just a personal preference.
Basically, it is parachute cord, green in most cases, with #4 buck pellets stuffed inside & the ends melted & crimped closed. We hang 'em off a 3 way swivel with a #4 Berkley snap ( getting harder to find now ) & fish 'em the same way you would pencil lead. Biggest advantage is, when they do get hung up, they will generally bend & twist their way loose. Less time rigging lead = more time fishing = more fish hooked.[8D] The only time they break off is when they are caught below a ledge or if your main line is directly rubbing on a rock. Been fishing the Stamp pretty regular since Labor Day & have only gone through two of them. I DO change the 3 way swivel after every trip, but that is just a personal preference.
Another way with using a Dink float is to cut a piece of pencil lead (need the right cutters) or you will pinch the opening closed, and slide your main line through. Position it away from your hook (two-three feet) and crimp the end of lead to fasten it in place. Don't forget the float goes on the main line first. I find this gives you a direct pull if snagged using only your main line and eliminates swivels. Just another of many ways to get down where the fish are.
The best thing,that I have found to cut pencil lead with, is large dogs nail clippers. Doesn't crimp the end and leaves a smooth cut. Then just feed the line through.
all i do is use pencil lead cut it to length use the pliers to smooth the edges down then shove it in a piece of rubber tubing so that the whole lead is covered i kin pull outta most snags any i cant pull outta makes me retie but thats rare
If you use sliding pencil lead, place a bead on line in front and in back of lead to keep it from fraying line. Adds a little colour as well. Also makes it easier on your swivel and your float.
As well, use a tooth pick with your float as it makes it very easy to adjust, won't have to wrap float with the line as much. Put tooth pick in float holes, top.
Hey everyone thanks for all the great advice. I've re-set all my rods and been out several times now. System works excellent!! I've lost four weights and no rigs in over 8 hours on the river so I'm no longer catching bottom the way I was. Only problem now is I'm not catching any fish either.
I'm sure that I'm still doing something wrong or the success rate would improve. The rig I'm using is a #2 Gamakatsu with a small piece of orange and bright pink wool behind a 16 inch leader. Then a one ounce weight. I adjust the float on the line so the weight is just bouncing off the bottom depending on the area of the river I'm on. I've seen several other guys on the river with almost identical rigs and they're catching fish. What could I be doing wrong in my presentation or rigging?
Not directly related to the question, but for cutting pencil lead try your electrical wire strippers. Cuts the lead without crimping the centre hole shut.
One very quick & easy way to cut pencil lead is to use a small 'mini pipe cutter', available for about $7. Leaves a very good end and doesn't affect the hole in center.
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