FisherTim
Active Member
I know this topic seems to have a pretty strong consensus from this forum after looking through the 23-26 hourston restoration thread. Hats off to Rob, that’s an amazing level of workmanship.
Im going to get one thing clear from the get-go. I have neither the resources, time, patience, nor skills and workmanship to get the boat to a similar standard as rob did. My Priority is to get a structurally sound boat that is seaworthy, and will last, that means marine ply, epoxy bonding, no hardware, inside of hull gelcoated. I want a fishing vessel, not a yacht.
Im hoping to keep the boat under 10k. (Yes I know I will be laughing at myself down the road for even thinking that’s possible)
I happen to have a pair of Yamaha F115XLs counter rotating with rigging, hydraulic steering. Etc. I know it’s not ideal, but should be enough to plane comfortably and cruise in the low 20s. Also already have Raymarine plotter/sounder, so two big ticket items taken care of.
Realistically I don’t think I can get a pod under 3k, so that would eat into my budget pretty hard.
A pair of 115s weigh approx 850 wet, considerably less than the 351 and leg that were in there before. It seems like this boat was designed to have power right at the end of the transom too. According to the Yamaha service manual I’m supposed to go 13” from the centreline, leaving me with about 28” above the keel, or 12” of freeboard at the stern (based on the inboard waterline). If I build a splashwell to the height of H7, Ill be left with over 28” of flounder protection. That can’t possibly be a Safety concern. 2‘ from the transom with room to walk on either side is also considerably less of a footprint than the doghouse was. Still over 6 feet from splashwell to hard top. Total cost would be closer to 300 than 3000(labour is free)
I’m just about done ripping out all the stringers and bulkheads(one to go). And don’t worry, I already got rid of the Flybridge. Im going to try to keep an open boat and only build up the rear bulkhead to half height, use as backrest for seats with a drop down curtain to close bow off in winter.
I want to focus my budget on high quality materials and go minimalistic On the build. Nice open deck, good visibility, room, and a V Berth to sleep in.
Really, why shouldn’t one notch out the transom? Seems like a much more budget friendly option, especially if you’re already replacing it. Paired with a splashwell you’ll never flounder. I understand that if you’re putting $75k into one of these builds, it’s a no brainer to spend the extra pennies on a pod, but that’s not the case for me.
Im going to get one thing clear from the get-go. I have neither the resources, time, patience, nor skills and workmanship to get the boat to a similar standard as rob did. My Priority is to get a structurally sound boat that is seaworthy, and will last, that means marine ply, epoxy bonding, no hardware, inside of hull gelcoated. I want a fishing vessel, not a yacht.
Im hoping to keep the boat under 10k. (Yes I know I will be laughing at myself down the road for even thinking that’s possible)
I happen to have a pair of Yamaha F115XLs counter rotating with rigging, hydraulic steering. Etc. I know it’s not ideal, but should be enough to plane comfortably and cruise in the low 20s. Also already have Raymarine plotter/sounder, so two big ticket items taken care of.
Realistically I don’t think I can get a pod under 3k, so that would eat into my budget pretty hard.
A pair of 115s weigh approx 850 wet, considerably less than the 351 and leg that were in there before. It seems like this boat was designed to have power right at the end of the transom too. According to the Yamaha service manual I’m supposed to go 13” from the centreline, leaving me with about 28” above the keel, or 12” of freeboard at the stern (based on the inboard waterline). If I build a splashwell to the height of H7, Ill be left with over 28” of flounder protection. That can’t possibly be a Safety concern. 2‘ from the transom with room to walk on either side is also considerably less of a footprint than the doghouse was. Still over 6 feet from splashwell to hard top. Total cost would be closer to 300 than 3000(labour is free)
I’m just about done ripping out all the stringers and bulkheads(one to go). And don’t worry, I already got rid of the Flybridge. Im going to try to keep an open boat and only build up the rear bulkhead to half height, use as backrest for seats with a drop down curtain to close bow off in winter.
I want to focus my budget on high quality materials and go minimalistic On the build. Nice open deck, good visibility, room, and a V Berth to sleep in.
Really, why shouldn’t one notch out the transom? Seems like a much more budget friendly option, especially if you’re already replacing it. Paired with a splashwell you’ll never flounder. I understand that if you’re putting $75k into one of these builds, it’s a no brainer to spend the extra pennies on a pod, but that’s not the case for me.