North coast expedition: From reverie to pucker and back again

Sharphooks

Well-Known Member
Just returned from a trip that for me was a trip of lifetime. It really ended up being that-- I spent one solid year planning it out and more or less pulled it off according to the mental image I’d been building in my head during all that time on shore

When I was in my 20’s, I sat and pondered maps of Kenya and Tanzania and Angola, trying to figure out how I could hitchhike from East Africa to West Africa and sew together all the game parks in one trip so they’d be like beads on a necklace. And then all of a sudden there you are, in the place you dreamed about, the lions and kudu and water buffalo so close you can smell them

When you sit in a room and endlessly pore over maps and marine charts, you build a picture of the land you're going to see in your head and bit my bit, the mental image becomes so real you can see it and smell it plain as day and you haven’t even taken one step.

And then there it was, so close I could smell it:
























 
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NORTH COAST EXPEDITION PART II

If you fish with a dog you have to pick your camping spots accordingly

The beach has to have sand, have a gentle approach so you don’t swamp your inflatable when making beach landings when she has to do her business and the sand has to extend out past the rocks and eel grass to where you’re dropping your anchor so you get a good bite and sleep tight.

And one more thing: that beach has to be so close to the “good stuff” so at Oh Dark Thirty, a fresh brewed mug of coffee clutched in hand, you can cast off the anchor line after it’s tied up to your inflatable, fire up the kicker, drop your gear over the side and be in fishy water within 50 to 100 yards of your anchor.

So I found just that spot. It also happened to have piles of firewood for BBQ’ing up salmon, a fresh water creek for bathing and cleaning cooking gear, and did I mention I could hook fish within a stone's throw of the beach?



So that place made the trip.















Some call this a northern coho—I call it a twenty pound spring that decided to get his spots removed








I did step ashore on an island close by and while trudging around a small bay my dog suddenly went nuts. It was like ice water down my back. Cougar? Bear? Wolves?

Wolves? What wolves?



Oh, those wolves....

 
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NORTHCOAST EXPEDITION PART III

The whales. I saw whales doing the stuff I’d only read about or seen on YouTube vids: full out of the water breaches, three or four whales jumping at the same time.

And there was the bubble curtain thing. Cetologists call it “cooperative feeding” . The humpbacks go head to head in a circle and blow a huge skein of bubbles so it forms a curtain around the bait and concentrates it into a tight narrow pillar. Then, one by one, they take turns coming up through the water column with wide open mouths, exploding out of the water like Trident submarines, maws agape, spewing a million frantic coins. It’s quite a sight, especially when the setting sun turns their breath fountains pink, so it’s like long stemmed roses blossoming out there on the water

And I got to see full breaching orcas, over and over, three or four at a time, completely airborne. How to make them stop doing all that awesome aerial stuff? Why, just reach for a camera, that’s how. Works every time

The heretofore mentioned pucker part of the trip: when you bracket 3 weeks of travel time, sooner or later you’ll find the weather (or it’ll find you) The new experience for me this trip: southeast blows. I’d never had the pleasure of the wind blowing from that direction. It always blew NW for me, or that’s how I remembered prior trips




Even though I was bucking a flood tide of that particular morning, that gave me a measure of security because I figured a flood in conjunction with a SE blow was at least a “sympathetic” event.

But as they say......" wave heights may vary considerably due to shoreline and depth effects..."

OMG, all of a sudden I was in 3 meter seas all stacked up in one place, the chaotic spumes of greenish brown sea (brown like the color of stale blood) mixed up with rafts of huge logs and thick patches of bull kelp

Logs are bad enough but bull kelp is nasty stuff. One dainty frond from a kelp stem draped over the cooling ports of my Honda --- instant shut down. Honda has an over heat sensor that once triggered, gives you 30 seconds to either clear the kelp or shut down the engine on your own before the sensor does it for you. And losing power in conditions like that could be catastrophic. You guys with the bigger boats probably don’t notice weather like that. But in a smaller boat, freshly tanked down with 77 gallons of fuel ( I had 3 x 5 gallon jerry cans, 2 x 6 gallon jerry cans, all full, plus a 10 gallon saddle tank and a main tank with 42 gallons all equally pressed, giving me more or less, the additional weight of another Honda 150 in the boat)

So in a word, I was navigating a loggy boat in some major weather.

And little did I know it but sometime during the trip, my port trim tab blew a seal. Not only did it puke out all the hydraulic fluid, but it left the port tab fully extended in nose-down position, which of course only served to drive the starboard gunnel down into the water



So in McGregor bank I was pushing through 3 meter waves, burying the starboard gunnel and seeing waves starting to break on my wheelhouse glass.

I then was forced to power through 10 nautical miles of consistent 2 to 3 meter seas with no where to pull out. I was committed because the only hidey-holes I knew about were 12 miles from where I was getting beat To a pulp

I eventually made it to that place. There was the magic moment of cutting the wheel to starboard and surfing down the faces of huge waves, convinced I’d broach the boat with that starboard lean going on but finally, the dog and I were tucked safe and sound into my favorite cove. Both my puppy and I felt totally beaten up: stiff neck from dodging logs and kelp, white-knuckled from gripping the helm for several fun-filled hours. The dog was quivering and shaking like she had palsy.

The next morning the outlook said 30 knt winds by noon. But it was flat calm and I knew it was time to make my move

 
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NORTHCOAST EXPEDITION PART IV

That night the sun came out, the water became smooth as glass, and I took on a cooler full of fresh salt ice. I’d been releasing crazy quantities of fish for two straight weeks ----it was time to consider doing the opposite. And then suddenly there I was with a major spring hole all to myself.

Miracle of miracles: all the guides had gone home. I was all alone in a known consistent spring producing spot, one hour shy of an evening flood tide. And it just cracked me up how just one day earlier, going through those waves, it had felt like the end of the world. Now a few hours later here I was back in Nirvana floating over hungry springs all by my self.

So, a few stunning springs that night. Then this is what happened to me the next morning:




Unfortunately, on the day this happened the guides showed back up in force and then, in typical guide fashion, although they will bark at you and order you to pick up your gear when one of their clients hooks a fish, they suddenly have difficulty reading signs or listening to pleas once someone else (a non guide) hooks a fish.

Long story short, I hook what I knew was a big fish when a guide comes up on my stern going 4 knts (that's their preferred speed when everyone else is going 1.5 knts) And despite my pleas to pull up his gear or turn away, he kept on coming and predictably, the fish wraps around the L.U. of his 250 Hp Yamaha

Finally (and reluctantly) he picks up his downriggers but it’s clear to me the line is wrapped on his Yamaha. He eventually gets around to picking that up and sure enough, my line goes right to it. Then there’s a loud snap and miracle of miracles, the line plucks free. I wait for that sickening feeling of zero resistance but that’s not what went down --- the fish was still on about 100 yards off my stern and heading for open ocean.

My Longstone just started smoking off line ---the chase was on. The fish took me several nautical miles. I burned an entire morning and half a tank of kicker gas chasing that fish and against all odds, using a crappy Shimano convergence noodle stick of a rod, I finally swum the fish into my net.

Prior to this trip, someone on this Forum mentioned he was going to Langara and posted something along the lines of…..(and I paraphrase here) ….” if I get a biggie it’s going down in my cooler, and all you greenies and tree huggers who talk C&R on the biggies can eat your hearts out….ha ha ”

So yes, that was on my mind. But I ultimately decided we all get to do it once in our lives and here, one meter off my port gunnel, was my “once”.

I had a sneaking suspicion this would be my year for a big fish. And with the exception of the Shimano Convergence noodle rod, I was in fact using Maxima Marine Green 40 lb test leader ( the best mono I’ve ever used. Period. ) and tied to the end of that leader was my all-time favorite pair-up: a 3/0 black Gammie stinger in the rear and a 4/0 red Gammie up front.

So, I admit, I’ve never weighed an ocean fish. I usually bracket weights as in--- low to mid 20’s, or high teener, or ‘almost tyee” or something along those lines.

But a guy came and anchored up in a bay next to my boat that night and the next morning I asked him if he’d take a picture. Of what, he asked. I think I got a fish that begins with a 6, I responded. He looked highly skeptical. OK, I’ll come over with a scale.

He showed up and as I opened the cooler and he saw the head he responded: that’s a 45 pound fish.

I’m not so sure about that, I responded and proceeded to haul the whole fish out of the cooler.

Upon which he sucked in his breath and said: wowee, why, it’s Mr. Sixty Pounder, clear as day!



Gutted and bled and having two days in the cooler, it bottomed out his scale at 56. He warned me the scale would bottom out so the actual number won’t be known and that number is not important.

What I do know is that I’ll never keep another big fish like that again.



Not only from a conservation standpoint. There’s the logistics of having a huge body in a small boat and how does one properly care for it after its dead on your deck? And what do you do with it once you get it home? In retrospect, I wish it had ended up on the upper stretches of the Wannock where it was probably heading.

But it was a buck. That made me feel a bit better, knowing that one buck can impregnate multiple does once they get on the gravel.

I was now pushing three weeks on this trip. The dog was giving me dirty looks every time I fired up the kicker and reached for my rod. With heavy heart I headed south

It was 5 PM. The weather was gorgeous. The outlook was for the typical early to late afternoon Q. C Strait 10 to 15 knt blow from the NW. But Egg Island was reporting 3 knt wind. So was Pine Island.

So although I have NEVER done my Cape Caution run in the evening, after hearing that report I decided to throw all caution to the wind…. I busted the evening move

But my hunch told me it was in fact a good move. I would ride the beginning of a flood tide all the way past Caution in a gently rolling NW swell. It was a gorgeous evening, and best of all, I would finally get to see all the beautiful terrain of Smith Sound and Neck Ness and Raynor Point on my ride to Caution. Usually I’m making that run at the crack of dawn---it’s misty or foggy or both and all I’m doing is punching a throttle and locking eyes dead ahead of me to dodge logs and kelp and hoping to put Caution behind me the quickest way possible.

But finally, a chance to relax and take in the sights. Here’s Cape Caution in one of its more bucolic moods:




So here I was with the Cape Caution demon behind me puttering through glassy calm water on an incoming tide a few hours before dark all alone in blissful solitude. What’s a man to do?

The first take-down was spectacular. One of the best of the trip. And in one of those places I’d fished before for years and never hooked a spring. A mid-twenty fish and what perfect timing because I had one more slot open on my card for springs. The fish recognized that and committed suicide on my deck. Then on the next drop I hook a huge piece of bull kelp on the downrigger line. The braid goes back at a 45 degree angle, then suddenly the kelp breaks off and I breath a sigh of relief but then it floats back and snags on my line so I think….this is it, you got your fish so call it a night and go find your anchorage for the evening.

I start to reel in against the kelp then all of a sudden I feel throb throb, the line pops off the clip and boom, I’m fast into another hot spring. This all happened in about 10 minutes.

Sometimes it goes that way for us--- and it's always struck me that by making the counter-intuitive move, that was exactly the right move to make to have The Most Memorable experience like I did that evening
 
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NORTH COAST EXPEDITION PART V

Getting back into the Port Hardy area is always such a treat. One forgets just how amazing that area is and it always leaves me asking myself: why did I just burn 1,000 liters of gas and run away from all this?





So I camp in the spot I usually save for the last day of the trip

Just me and the dog and a beach that would make you think you’re in Tahiti.




And I’d just caught one of these:





So I fired up the rest of the onions and peppers and spuds, mixed in the best white fish in the universe with a jar of Marsala sauce, pulled the cork on a bottle of Chilean merlot I’d been saving for three straight weeks just for this very moment, then mouthful by mouthful, sip by sip, relived each day of the trip, day by day, fish by fish, island by island.

And then I got down on my knees and thanked the bearded dude up in the sky for helping me pull it off, the dude who can’t be named or made to stand still long enough to put a finger on, but you just know deep down to the gum wads stuck to the bottom of your gum boots that it was he who'd just delivered you to and back from that stunning place, maybe one of the most gorgeous wild places left on this planet, and with my mind wrapped tight around that precept I toasted him and all he stood for and although I didn’t say it out loud, I was already thinking about how and when I was going to pull off the same trip next year
 
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Amazing trip and amazing story sharphooks. I have been past most of those places in a friends 57' trawler. Beautiful area. Hope to go back one day.
 
Sharphooks...
your reports should be in a store bought magazine
Fortunately for us they are here
Thanks awesome read as usual
 
Very nicely done! Having worked in some of those places in days gone by ,I know it can be an amazing area for the outdoors person-- but you have to be able to handle the rain too. More please!
 
These sagas are always a hoot!
Nice solo exploring, I salute you sharphooks.
Helluva a slab too.... Well deserved.
 
this is the stuff many of us only dream of.
thxs for sharing your great experiences and thxs for the descriptive way you do it. it's what makes us all keep working towards those great life adventures.
 
Great read and thanks for sharing. Your reports should be published x2
 
Sharphooks-You are an awsome writer with a passion that we all share on this forum.By far the best read I've had in a long time and the pictures inspire me to take my boat farther than my usual fishing holes.I totally agree with other members that you should be contributing to a magazine or writing freelance.
 
Great adventure well described and a fish of a lifetime too!!

Awesome stuff.........simply awesome.

Thanks for sharing that saga.


Take care.
 
Kick butt read SH!
 
Fantastic read. While your fishing partner won't help you with steering the boat, setting the gear, and netting a fish, you couldn't ask for a better partner. I thank you for taking the time to share your adventure with us.
 
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