Marine Battery Wiring

sorry about coming so late to this party.

i have an on/off for the battery that is used for starting; a second on/off this is used for the 2 batteries that run 'the house'; and a third switch that combines all batteries (have never had a need to use this one).

engine battery is always isolated from the house draw using this system. house batteries charge via the engine alternators but as already pointed out, you have to have some RPM for this charging to be effective.

boat also has float/chargers (2) which keep all batteries at float levels which makes them happy and last far longer.
 
Well I've gone through this thread and am still having problems.

I have my main engine (can charge batteries), a pull-start kicker (can't charge batteries), one starting battery and one deep-cycle battery, and the 1,2,both switch.

Right this is how it is wired...both batteries connected togather on the negative posts. Both batteries connected to the switch (at 1 and 2 spot) with the positive. I have the main engines negative connected to the starters battery negative post and the main engines positve to the switch (at the common post). I then have my cable bringing power to my center concole with its negative on the deep-cycle's negative post and the postive to the switch (also at the common post).

Everything works but my problem is I can start the motor with the switch on 1,2, or 'both'. Just not 'off'. I can also power my electronics on the concole with the switch at 1,2, or 'both'.

From what I've read it seems I need the motor to only start when the switch is set to 1(starter battery) and my electronics to run when the switch is only set at 2 (deep-cycle battery). But I need my main motor to have the option of charging either batteries.

The electronics I will be running will be electric riggers, gps, and vhf. Will a two battery system work? Any thoughts on how I can get them to connected properly?
 
quote:Originally posted by fishies

Well I've gone through this thread and am still having problems.

From what I've read it seems I need the motor to only start when the switch is set to 1(starter battery) and my electronics to run when the switch is only set at 2 (deep-cycle battery). But I need my main motor to have the option of charging either batteries.
Click to expand...
You don’t want your engine to “only” start in the #1 position. You want your engine to be able to start in either #1, #2, or both! You want to “start” your engine while in the #1 position.

After it starts, let it run for a few minutes to recharge what you used and then switch to your #2 and “run” your boat and everything, off #2. Saving your #1 battery for starting the engine.

If I got what you just explained right, I don’t think you have a problem? If you have your switch set to #1, everything is working? And when set to #2, again everything is working? As you just described it your boat and electronics will run off the selected battery and the engine will charge that battery. That is what you want, I believe.

If you want to check it… Just take your positive cable off one of the batteries, put the selector switch to the battery still connected and see if everything works, to include starting the engine. Then just repeat that with the other battery. Just remember to “save” that #1 battery for starting, as you will eventually run your #2 down without any charge going to while running the kicker!
 
your objective is to isolate your engine start battery from the house current draw. that guarantees that the start battery will always be there to start the engines. so with position #1, you should check to see if your house electronics, lights, etc are working. if they are, you have a wiring issue. if they don't come on until you switch to #2 you got it right. "both" is considered a "combiner" just some insurance for the case where your start battery fails, you switch to both and do the start using the house battery. no matter what, the engine should be charging both batteries.
 
quote:Originally posted by reelfast

your objective is to isolate your engine start battery from the house current draw. that guarantees that the start battery will always be there to start the engines. so with position #1, you should check to see if your house electronics, lights, etc are working. if they are, you have a wiring issue.
Click to expand...
I don't think so! With a single engine, two battery system - you are better off with "everything" running off the selected battery!
quote: you switch to both and do the start using the house battery. no matter what, the engine should be charging both batteries.
Click to expand...
I don't think so, again! I am not sure you meant the way I just read that? You should only use "both" if neither battery has enough charge to start the engine... otherwise start it in a "single" switch position.

You "NEVER" want to charge a "start battery" and a "deep cycle battery" at the same time using the same alternator/stator!!! That is just asking to blow a stator! Or, create an overcharge? [:0][:0]

Go to the link GLG posted - read it! Scroll down "Dual Battery" first subtopic is "Single Engine/Dual Battery"! There is a good diagram and explanation there!
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Batteries.htm
 
Yeah it is wired like the diagram shows. My issue I thought I might have is that I can start my engine with the switch in either position and I can run my electronics with the switch in either position.

What I thought the switch did was isolate whatever battery the switch was on. I was worried that when trolling on my kicker (non-charging) and using my electronics with the switch on my deep-cycle battery it was drawing from both somehow.

From what I understand from Charlie's post is that even though my negative for my motor is on my starter battery, if my switch is on my deep-cycle battery it will be drawing power from the deep-cycle through to the engine. (good for just in-case situations).

So just for comfirmation...If i'm running my electronics with my switch on my deep-cycle battery. I can use that battery till it dies and it won't take any power from my starter battery untill I flip the switch over?

Thanks for the help...you just may have saved yourself from having to tow me in haha.
 
This might help? Think of it this way... the negative wires throughout your boat and the entire system is a completed circuit. The negative portion is already connected to everything, including both batteries. The battery switch does nothing more than "completes that circuit" by closing the positive lead(s) to the individual battery(s) selected! In #1 or #2 the selected battery is “online”, the other battery is “offline” not having a completed circuit, therefore not allowing either charge or discharge.

Save that “cranking” battery… you will be needing it one day!
I am getting to old to keep towing people in! :)
 
Sorry guys but I have run into a problem and I need to ask you another question.

Do you use 1 busbar and hook up both positive and negative to it? If so, how to you attach the wires? For example is one side designated for Pos and the other side for Neg or is it one end for Pos and the other end for Neg? Or do you have 2 seperate busbars?

Thanks in advance

I like it,
I love it,
I want some more of it!
 
quote:Originally posted by Gomesy

Do you use 1 busbar and hook up both positive and negative to it? For example is one side designated for Pos and the other side for Neg or is it one end for Pos and the other end for Neg?
Click to expand...
NO!
Depending on the type of bus you are talking about? As there are some that have a main wire from either the pos or neg, then anything attached should be one or the other - but not mixed. Meaning anything attached to either side will be either pos or neg!

Or, you could be talking about a "secondary" bus designed as just a "pass" through either pos or neg. Meaning one side is "pos" and the other side is "pos" or one side is "neg" and the other side is "neg". You "could" do what you are suggesting, if that is the case by using the top portion as "pos" and the bottom portion as "neg", as those are individual circuits, but you should really use two seperate bars, so the is no confusion!
 
Thanks again Charlie.

I like it,
I love it,
I want some more of it!
 
On a 1990 150hp evinrude what should the voltage output be
and do wing nuts on the battery effect the charge
 
Any battery connection not good, tight, and clean can affect the charging ability.

I believe 14.5 volts; with a max of 15.0 volts might be the magic number there! If battery voltage is above 14.5-15.0 volts, replace voltage regulator/rectifier. Check the condition of battery as overcharging may have damaged battery. If it is below 14.5 volts, charge battery and if battery can NOT be satisfactorily charged, replace battery. If the battery accepts a satisfactory charge, check battery voltage while cranking engine. If cranking voltage is not acceptable, replace battery.

Keep in mind the following charging amperes are based off a Mercury 45 Ampere Stator. You might have a hard time pulling 41 amperes if you have a 30 Ampere Stator? :)

Chargingsystem.jpg
 
I have brand new batteries brand new rectifier
and last week I had some charging issues
I never really saw anything over 12.7 volts on fishfinder gauge
while trying to charge batts
 
quote:Originally posted by ebbtide

I have brand new batteries brand new rectifier
and last week I had some charging issues
I never really saw anything over 12.7 volts on fishfinder gauge
while trying to charge batts
Click to expand...

Well, might be a faulty battery but given it's new, probably not likely.

Most probable cause is insufficient wiring gauge connecting the feed for your fish finder. If your fish finder is connected to a DC bus bar or panel, take a reading with a digital multimeter at that point with the charging source connected. Then take a reading right at your house battery. If the readings are different, then you either have bad connections or insufficient wiring gauge for the voltage.

TenMile
<'((((><
 
That is possible? I would have to vote for the bad connections if that is the case?

But, are you trying to charge both batteries at the same time? As in… is your battery switch in the “both” position? Not good, especially if you have one has been discharged – they will try to equalize!

As far as the battery charging voltage, that changes with temperature and also with what is currently running (e.g. refrigerator). It will vary, but approximately 2.3 volts per cell (13.8 volts) at 50 C. Most of the time, you should see that number (13.8), IF the battery switch is in the #1 or #2 position and IF you have nothing else running? Unfortunately a reading of 12.7 volts while under charge will not tell you much of anything except something is drawing volts/amps?
 
SORRY I HAD A Digital multi meter
on the battery and it agrees with ff.
Also i think I have a 10amp rectifier
if that makes a diff.
I was told when motor was running I should read 13+ volts
I don't want to seem to forward in asking but I have a young family with limited funds does anyone live in the south delta area that could help diagnose
 
yes main is shut down and reading is 12.3 v
while running 12.7v
does it matter that I'm using crappy tire
nautilus batteries? one starting one deep cell
my friend said to me that was my problem
I don't believe it
 
coming late to the party. I have the battery isolation relay and love it. Leave the 1/2/all switch in 1 and run the accesories and Down rigger off the 2nd battery. If the first fails, just switch to 2 or all to start the main motor. Toss the wing nuts and use real nuts and a wrench to attach the battery cables. Stops lots of bad connection problems. My isolator is a West marine brand, even has an LED light when the 2 batteries are connected by the relay. Never worry about running out of battery. My T-8 feeds the same as the main motor. No problem when running both at the same time in 8 years of running the T-8. Previous kicker had no charger. Charging problem, hook the charger lead up to the charging wire from the alternantor and see if you get full voltage on the battery for charging. If not, you have a missing or bad connection. I run dual buss bars under the dash and in the back by the switch for different hookups. Mine has a negative and a positive bar on the same isolation block. But since I am an electrical engineer, I do not normally get confused by electricity.

21'Jetcraft Bluewater, Hobie Outback
 
I guess my main question here is, for a battery
to get a charge what does the volt meter need to read?
I know it is only a 10amp rectifier but on an 150hp
engine built in the 90's you would think it should be able
to top up the charge after running the electronic devices
for a couple of hours?
electronic devices installed are
electric downriggers
gps
fishfinder
radar
stereo
trim tabs
running lights
all of which are conected to battery #2 deep cell
motor conected to battery #1 starting
at the very least I should get #1 battery fully charged
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Gallivanter
How much Power needed for Radar
Replies
8
Views
901
searun
searun
M
Wiring Overhaul
Replies
5
Views
851
wolf
wolf
Baxter
More Electrical Questions :)
Replies
17
Views
983
gunnerlove
gunnerlove
Skins88
Wiring/Charging Question
Replies
37
Views
2K
zurk
zurk
S
Add a battery and lithium iron phosphate house battery
Replies
2
Views
399
CBsqrd
CBsqrd
Back
Top