Charging Batteries With A Kicker

Depending on the length from the power source to the Scotties, you will need either 10 or 12 gauge wires with a 30 amp fuse. If you're under 10', 12 gauge should be fine (that's what I have on mine). The fuse holder should be located close to the battery.
 
Thanks Bruce.

I think I'll look into the ACR concept too.
 
Yes that is an excellent site with a lot of resources and documentation. The products appear well engineered for marine environment yet not wildly expensive. The problem I'm having is wiring a boat for saltwater but living 400 km from said chuck. Haven't yet been able to find a local supplier for parts that stocks a good range of connectors in stainless or other non corrosive materials. Would prefer to support local business but it looks like a lot will need to come from internet. Anyone know a good marine electrical supplier and/or technician in Kelowna?
 
Napa has some marine connectors. Shop online to get prices and serial numbers, then go to Dockside and have them find the stuff in their catalogues at the counter. If you like the price, have them order the stuff from their supplier in Vancouver. It will be there the next morning.
 
Lots of reading on Blue Sea website and their dealer sites this past few days. I can get their switching hardware and fuse blocks online. A local truck/RV electric place has the wiring and connectors. Parts are ordered, dusting off my soldering iron and heat gun...
 
No soldering on boat wiring to much vibration can make them crack
Crimp connectors preferably shrink fit ones if not use the shrink fit tubing that goes overtop. Of crimp connectors
 
Local truck electric guy does most of his volume on logging trucks so he knows about vibration. He says the sequence should be crimp, solder, shrink tube. Are there other considerations re marine application that I'm missing?
 
Local truck electric guy does most of his volume on logging trucks so he knows about vibration. He says the sequence should be crimp, solder, shrink tube. Are there other considerations re marine application that I'm missing?
I was told by a marine electrician that if you want to do it right the first and only time to do it this way. Also only use ring connecters.
 
No plastic on the connectors, straight metal. Shrink tubing comes at the end. Bit leery of rings though, dropping and then finding tiny screw in dark tight boat spaces not my idea of fun. Spades mean screw doesn't need to be removed completely. Haven't made up my mind yet.
 
Local truck electric guy does most of his volume on logging trucks so he knows about vibration. He says the sequence should be crimp, solder, shrink tube. Are there other considerations re marine application that I'm missing?

This is correct. Use rosin core solder not acid core.
 
No plastic on the connectors, straight metal. Shrink tubing comes at the end. Bit leery of rings though, dropping and then finding tiny screw in dark tight boat spaces not my idea of fun. Spades mean screw doesn't need to be removed completely. Haven't made up my mind yet.
With spades the screw loosen and the wire falls off with the ring the connection stays there till the screw falls off I guess. I just did what the Marine Electrician told me. I just guessing that, that is code. As far as the plastic all of the original wiring has plastic on.
 
I just ordered the bluesea system, and am planing on installing this weekend. I have two questions!

1) What does ther start isolation connection do and why is it listed as optional?
2) The wiring diagram shows that I need to install fuses between the charging relay and the batteries, what kind of fuses would you install or should they be circuit breakers, any good marine brands?
 
I just ordered the bluesea system, and am planing on installing this weekend. I have two questions!

1) What does ther start isolation connection do and why is it listed as optional?
2) The wiring diagram shows that I need to install fuses between the charging relay and the batteries, what kind of fuses would you install or should they be circuit breakers, any good marine brands?

Maybe start a new thread with all the details of your setup i.e. (Main engine, kicker, batteries, acr model, switch type) etc. That would be easier to help you out.
 
Quick answers for partymarty:
1. designed to prevent dropout or interruption to elctronics when engine starts (power surge in system).
2. Blue Sea makes a battery terminal fuse system that clamps right on the post. I used pre-made inline fuse holders spliced directly into 6 AWG wire, one end on the battery post, the other to the ACR. They take a Maxi fuse, easily available at Can Tire or Lordco, Napa etc. Original assdembly was from my truck electric guy.
 
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