Best way to add a removable piece of rigger cable?

[Olde School]

This is a first world question, so not looking forward to getting heckled...

I live in Port Alberni and the downrigger set up for sockeye is VERY different than the one for all other species of salmon, so much so that many of us here have 2 downriggers dedicated to sockeye fishing. The only difference is the placement of all the stopper beads, but it is enough of a chore to set them up, then remove them, especially if you start your day for sockeye and then go to the sound for other salmon, that it is easier to just re&re the downriggers.

Here is the question: is there an easy way to simply attach approximately 70 feet of downrigger braid, and then remove it when it isn't needed? This would allow me to leave all the beads in their spots along that 70'. The removed 70' would be saved for future use.
My only thought so far is for the end of the main downrigger braid to have a large swivel that is small enough to go through the end of the downrigger boom pulley, and then have a loop tied in the near end of the sockeye braid. I would simply loop the 70' into the swivel. The concern would be removing that loop after use - won't it get so tight as to be very difficult to remove without damaging it?
Is there a quick disconnect that will suit my purpose?

 

[scott craven]

Keep in mind that any swivel or knot in line will trip the shut off.
You would then have to disconnect and hand line the 70'
Not sure if it's worth it.

 

[Aquaholic]

Can you leave a swivel or loop on the end of the braid that remains on the spool? Then have a loop on both ends of your 70 sockeye extension and attach it polymar style?

Interesting idea. Quick change.

 

[Rain City]

Keep in mind that any swivel or knot in line will trip the shut off.
You would then have to disconnect and hand line the 70'
Not sure if it's worth it.

I use an overhand knot on both ends of a piece of that black sein cord stuff. I have a 30 foot piece I add for stacking and I remove it when I'm back to fishing one line deep. I usually leave it on one side and make that my shallower setup because it does cause more blowback. The knot works as the auto stop.

 

[walleyes]

This is a first world question, so not looking forward to getting heckled...

I live in Port Alberni and the downrigger set up for sockeye is VERY different than the one for all other species of salmon, so much so that many of us here have 2 downriggers dedicated to sockeye fishing. The only difference is the placement of all the stopper beads, but it is enough of a chore to set them up, then remove them, especially if you start your day for sockeye and then go to the sound for other salmon, that it is easier to just re&re the downriggers.

Here is the question: is there an easy way to simply attach approximately 70 feet of downrigger braid, and then remove it when it isn't needed? This would allow me to leave all the beads in their spots along that 70'. The removed 70' would be saved for future use.
My only thought so far is for the end of the main downrigger braid to have a large swivel that is small enough to go through the end of the downrigger boom pulley, and then have a loop tied in the near end of the sockeye braid. I would simply loop the 70' into the swivel. The concern would be removing that loop after use - won't it get so tight as to be very difficult to remove without damaging it?
Is there a quick disconnect that will suit my purpose?

Probably a stupid question but have tried the Scotty stacker clips ?

 

[CatchAll]

Keep in mind that any swivel or knot in line will trip the shut off.
You would then have to disconnect and hand line the 70'
Not sure if it's worth it.

Why hand line? After the swivel trips the shutoff you push the green button or turn the knob and keep on going. I would do a swivel between the main brain and the 70’ length. Just cut the main braid at the swivel when you switch from sockeye to other gear. You loose a couple inches of braid each time, but not enough to really matter.

 

[scott craven]

Why hand line? After the swivel trips the shutoff you push the green button or turn the knob and keep on going. I would do a swivel between the main brain and the 70’ length. Just cut the main braid at the swivel when you switch from sockeye to other gear. You loose a couple inches of braid each time, but not enough to really matter.

That works if you continue sockeye fishing.
If going for Chinook, he wants to remove the section with the stops in place.
Winding it all back on the rigger won't accomplish that.

 

[CatchAll]

That works if you continue sockeye fishing.
If going for Chinook, he wants to remove the section with the stops in place.
Winding it all back on the rigger won't accomplish that.

That’s when you cut the braid at the swivel. Leave the swivel on the sockeye braid. Lose a couple inches of braid when you switch gear. Maybe you lose a couple feet per year. Could leave a big loop at the end of the main braid and run the sockeye braid through it, but why pull 70’ through the loop to save a couple inches of braid.

 

[scott craven]

That’s when you cut the braid at the swivel. Leave the swivel on the sockeye braid. Lose a couple inches of braid when you switch gear. Maybe you lose a couple feet per year. Could leave a big loop at the end of the main braid and run the sockeye braid through it, but why pull 70’ through the loop to save a couple inches of braid.

So wind it all onto the spool, then release the brake while pulling the 70'
back off the rigger until you hit the swivel?
Just trying to understand this.

 

[wildthing]

if your running braid tie a 3 overhand loop knot of about 4-6" then have a loop in your lower section of about 4" just pass through loop to loop done its how i change mine out when the lower section takes all the wear n tear ..... no swivels going through the pulley

 

[Olde School]

Can you leave a swivel or loop on the end of the braid that remains on the spool? Then have a loop on both ends of your 70 sockeye extension and attach it polymar style?

Interesting idea. Quick change.

This is exactly what I am thinking of doing. The question is whether untying the loop is feasible.

 

[Olde School]

Keep in mind that any swivel or knot in line will trip the shut off.
You would then have to disconnect and hand line the 70'
Not sure if it's worth it.

The shutoff point would be where I want to trip anyhow.

 

[Olde School]

Probably a stupid question but have tried the Scotty stacker clips ?

Yes, but they aren't fast enough when the bite gets on.

 

[Olde School]

That’s when you cut the braid at the swivel. Leave the swivel on the sockeye braid. Lose a couple inches of braid when you switch gear. Maybe you lose a couple feet per year. Could leave a big loop at the end of the main braid and run the sockeye braid through it, but why pull 70’ through the loop to save a couple inches of braid.

I like this idea. Not as slick as I had in mind, but would work, and serve the purpose of slowly but surely refreshing the end of my main braid.

 

[Olde School]

So wind it all onto the spool, then release the brake while pulling the 70'
back off the rigger until you hit the swivel?
Just trying to understand this.

Yes. Beats storing and maintaining 4 DRs.

 

[Olde School]

if your running braid tie a 3 overhand loop knot of about 4-6" then have a loop in your lower section of about 4" just pass through loop to loop done its how i change mine out when the lower section takes all the wear n tear ..... no swivels going through the pulley

Ohhhhhhh that's sweet too!

 

[CatchAll]

So wind it all onto the spool, then release the brake while pulling the 70'
back off the rigger until you hit the swivel?
Just trying to understand this.

I think that’s what he would have to do. Better than hand lining the 70’ with a downrigger ball into the boat. I would probably find something to wrap the 70’ onto (maybe an old reel on a short handle) and put a bungee cord on the downrigger brake while I do it.

 

[Rain City]

I have no idea why this has to be so complicated.

 

[tannerc]

Why not just leave it, you aren’t fishing much deeper in the sound than Sox anyway. Another bump of the button after an auto stop isn’t a big deal. Pull the stops off after the few weeks of Sox’s, or stack a rod in the sound and keep the sock mayhem alive.
If you want to remove it I agree a knot or swivel and cut it, but my luck id tangle that 70’ of braid into a mess before it went back on.

 

[wildthing]

ok here is the cool trick with braid ....... you want x amount of points on your down rigger .. you can if you want just loop in as many swivels as you wish ... form a loop pass it through the eye of the swivel and then pass the swivel through the loop it will now be held in place on the down rigger line .. to remove just take tension off and tease the loop open .... on the opposite side of the swivel use a snap or link to attach your dummy or extra relase clip ....


personally i just use one orange stop bead and the small cannonball snaps from PNT for multiple stacking ....