Campion Explorer 672 Issues

You may have built an interceptor!
Have a look at the angle in the pic. This would be the angle where the swimgrid would produce drag like an intercepter (a type of tab) relative to the horizontal waterline. Look at how an interceptor works compared to a tab, highly efficient due to the perpendicular drag created. You may have inadvertently created unstable interceptors. If you imagine how high the bow would be for that to happen....it's up there for sure......get the bow down, think about how that flange is grabbing water. Theoretically your situation should improve in saltwater, as a result of more buoyancy, that is until the flange grabs.
 

Attachments

  • 20220515_120109.jpg
    20220515_120109.jpg
    519.8 KB · Views: 90
You may have built an interceptor!
Have a look at the angle in the pic. This would be the angle where the swimgrid would produce drag like an intercepter (a type of tab) relative to the horizontal waterline. Look at how an interceptor works compared to a tab, highly efficient due to the perpendicular drag created. You may have inadvertently created unstable interceptors. If you imagine how high the bow would be for that to happen....it's up there for sure......get the bow down, think about how that flange is grabbing water. Theoretically your situation should improve in saltwater, as a result of more buoyancy, that is until the flange grabs.
Why would the bow have to be high? It's almost touching the water at rest.
 
Has anyone asked the question about the kicker and it’s position? Do you have the kicker tilted up and out of the way when you’re running?
 
Why would the bow have to be high? It's almost touching the water at rest.
I'm suggesting that the angle where the hull is running at is so bow high (or stern heavy) that the hull is not producing proper lift as it should be more parallel to the water at speed. In turn, the swim grid is producing drag similar to an interceptor, thus bouncing from port trim to stbd trim
 
I'm suggesting that the angle where the hull is running at is so bow high (or stern heavy) that the hull is not producing proper lift as it should be more parallel to the water at speed. In turn, the swim grid is producing drag similar to an interceptor, thus bouncing from port trim to stbd trim
Right, just the part where you said "If you imagine how high the bow would be for that to happen....it's up there for sure". To me it wouldn't have to be high at all because even when they boat isn't moving, the swim grid is pretty much touching the water
 
In that last picture ViciousFisher posted I see a drain below the waterline, could that be allowing water in to the hull? I was having problems with my boat and could not track the problem down for getting on plane. Once on plane then the bow would be heavy. Finally cut a hole in the floor only to find 40 gallons of water trapped between the stringers. The swim grid is probably not helping but you may have some water trapped in the hull. Worth a look. I used a hole saw and cut the hole as far back as possible and installed a inspection port.
 
Right, just the part where you said "If you imagine how high the bow would be for that to happen....it's up there for sure". To me it wouldn't have to be high at all because even when they boat isn't moving, the swim grid is pretty much touching the water
Gotcha, it's important to understand that the static stability is a different view somewhat than hull dynamics underway, although they do cross over at points. Wouldn't the stern get even deeper due to squat underway? At least until full lift was achieved.
 
Last edited:
My boat needs the tabs fully down, out of the hole. Drive all the way down. Tabs help lift the stern and push down the bow. Adding a doel-fin will help with this too, at the cost of speed due to drag. Due to all the weight added you need all the stern lift you can get. I have a Bennett trim tab indicator set-up. So I know where the tabs are. Instead of guessing. My boat also lists to one side as it gets on plane. Hard to find a perfectly balanced boat. So I know the settings to use before I punch the throttle, to get on plane. Then when I’m at speed the boat is balanced and only needs slight adjustments and drive trim.
It’s always a good idea to trim the drive down for higher speed turns, which would grab your grid. As far as the swim grid….I’d close it in or cut round ports in it around the corner area to allow the water to escape and prevent the water from cupping, causing drag. Removing and re-mounting it would be a major PITA.
 
My boat needs the tabs fully down, out of the hole. Drive all the way down. Tabs help lift the stern and push down the bow. Adding a doel-fin will help with this too, at the cost of speed due to drag. Due to all the weight added you need all the stern lift you can get. I have a Bennett trim tab indicator set-up. So I know where the tabs are. Instead of guessing. My boat also lists to one side as it gets on plane. Hard to find a perfectly balanced boat. So I know the settings to use before I punch the throttle, to get on plane. Then when I’m at speed the boat is balanced and only needs slight adjustments and drive trim.
It’s always a good idea to trim the drive down for higher speed turns, which would grab your grid. As far as the swim grid….I’d close it in or cut round ports in it around the corner area to allow the water to escape and prevent the water from cupping, causing drag. Removing and re-mounting it would be a major PITA.
New Update,

Expanded the tabs from 12x12 to 12x18. l know this alone won't improve it. Swim grid is also off. I am going to patch the holes, re-fiberglass them and then run the boat. It looks like the transom is in good shape. I might see about getting it inspected before I close it up, not sure though.
I have also decided that without the swim grid the boat is for sale. I bought it with that grid in mind because I didn't buy the boat for daytrips I bought it for overnight and 3 days trips with my two boys who love the ocean. I want to use it to camp with cook on all of those things. I think what I'll do is try it without the grid and see performance. If it improves and is the deciding factor I will raise the grid 6-8 inches close in the bottom, and re-install. What say you guys?

I also moved the cooler to the engine doghouse to try it out. I have decided its not a showstopper there either, can always put the food cooler and traps up top. Picture for reference

I think a hydrofoil wouldnt hurt either. To those asking about the engine, it ran great, the RPM gauge wasnt working when we went out last time, so I still have some troubleshooting to do with that as well. Heres some pics of the progress. Thanks again everyone for weighing in.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3398.jpg
    IMG_3398.jpg
    177.3 KB · Views: 127
  • 67433877340__F7F910AA-A7A1-4357-A93F-AFA0937425B6.jpg
    67433877340__F7F910AA-A7A1-4357-A93F-AFA0937425B6.jpg
    196.9 KB · Views: 125
C38C3B36-4B25-4CEB-A8AD-BBD3B25D6A26.jpeg
My boat has really big tabs and needs them. They have a turned down bend. I think this bend, up or down, adds strength to the tab to prevent flex. I noticed your additions and wonder if they’ll flex and negate some of the benefits of increased size?

I would remount the grid higher with the modifications necessary to prevent cupping. You’re already halfway there. The kicker shouldn’t be that big of a deal, weight wise. I’d use a moveable plywood platform to cook on the doghouse, while camping. The cooler can be moved around for weight distribution. When it’s full of fish and ice, maybe between driver and passenger seats and on the doghouse while fishing.
 
Good for you for getting at it like you are. In addition to raising the platform a few inches I respectfully suggest that you taper the outside edge from its current width at the front to about an inch at the back. Also, I would consider modifying the braces so you can use the same holes in the transom for them at least. You will likely have to lower the kicker bracket the same amount that you raise the platform as well.
I understand why you’d want to make that platform work for your use of the boat and wish you the best of luck with it.
 
New Update,

Expanded the tabs from 12x12 to 12x18. l know this alone won't improve it. Swim grid is also off. I am going to patch the holes, re-fiberglass them and then run the boat. It looks like the transom is in good shape. I might see about getting it inspected before I close it up, not sure though.
I have also decided that without the swim grid the boat is for sale. I bought it with that grid in mind because I didn't buy the boat for daytrips I bought it for overnight and 3 days trips with my two boys who love the ocean. I want to use it to camp with cook on all of those things. I think what I'll do is try it without the grid and see performance. If it improves and is the deciding factor I will raise the grid 6-8 inches close in the bottom, and re-install. What say you guys?

I also moved the cooler to the engine doghouse to try it out. I have decided its not a showstopper there either, can always put the food cooler and traps up top. Picture for reference

I think a hydrofoil wouldnt hurt either. To those asking about the engine, it ran great, the RPM gauge wasnt working when we went out last time, so I still have some troubleshooting to do with that as well. Heres some pics of the progress. Thanks again everyone for weighing in.
You are doing the right thing buddy, that boat should be night and day now
 
New Update,

Expanded the tabs from 12x12 to 12x18. l know this alone won't improve it. Swim grid is also off. I am going to patch the holes, re-fiberglass them and then run the boat. It looks like the transom is in good shape. I might see about getting it inspected before I close it up, not sure though.
I have also decided that without the swim grid the boat is for sale. I bought it with that grid in mind because I didn't buy the boat for daytrips I bought it for overnight and 3 days trips with my two boys who love the ocean. I want to use it to camp with cook on all of those things. I think what I'll do is try it without the grid and see performance. If it improves and is the deciding factor I will raise the grid 6-8 inches close in the bottom, and re-install. What say you guys?

I also moved the cooler to the engine doghouse to try it out. I have decided its not a showstopper there either, can always put the food cooler and traps up top. Picture for reference

I think a hydrofoil wouldnt hurt either. To those asking about the engine, it ran great, the RPM gauge wasnt working when we went out last time, so I still have some troubleshooting to do with that as well. Heres some pics of the progress. Thanks again everyone for weighing in.
How much does that swim grid weight????, it should be ok if it’s not too heavy, definitely raise it up 4-6” if you put it back on. Your trim tab are going to help but I still don’t think it was your issue. With that motor and drive that boat should jump out of the hole in 5 seconds, then used your trim tabs just to stabilize from side to side, use your trim on your drive to get the bow up, not sure how much experience you have driving boats that size, but you will feel a sweet spot, if your bow goes too far down, it will make your boat unstable. Hope all goes well for you.
 
Back
Top