Campion Explorer 672 Issues

1/Your tabs are very small and there's certainly area to add bigger ones. The wider they are the more effective they will be also.
2/Think about adding weight in the bow, as far forward as you can, bow locker? To offset the weight at the stern and get back on the intended lines with maybe lead or chain in incremental amounts and see how she feels then
Putting more weight in the boat is not going to fix anything IMO, the swim grid is still going to drag going up and in sharp turn the corners are going to hit the water, lowering the front is going to change that fact
 
Putting more weight in the boat is not going to fix anything IMO, the swim grid is still going to drag going up and in sharp turn the corners are going to hit the water, lowering the front is going to change that fact
A boat is a first class lever. Anything put in the bow will raise the stern at least thats what they told me when I got a degree in Nautical Science. I'm not advocating a long term fix, just giving options for diagnosis as the hull may be suffering from squat or not lifting in the correct places due to the heavy stern
 
To test how the boat handling would change with weight shifted to the bow… simply invite a couple of guys along and have them lay up in the v berth while you get up on plane and run at speed. A quick and easy way to prove or eliminate that as some of your problem
 
A boat is a first class lever. Anything put in the bow will raise the stern at least thats what they told me when I got a degree in Nautical Science. I'm not advocating a long term fix, just giving options for diagnosis as the hull may be suffering from squat or not lifting in the correct places due to the heavy stern
Based on your learning, would removing weight from the stern have the same effect, or would it be more effective?

One of his pics on the hook shows the swim grid touching the water, without any adults in the boat.
 
Based on your learning, would removing weight from the stern have the same effect, or would it be more effective?

One of his pics on the hook shows the swim grid touching the water, without any adults in the boat.
The counter effect in the bow would be more effective due to less waterplane in the bow but would add to bodily sinkage. Basically theres less buoyancy so adding 50 lbs in the bow would be like removing 250? from the stern. We would have to do a waterplane calculation to be exact. A shift in weight would be the best result, as you move from the fuller area stern to the bow the weight creates a greater resultant force as there is less buoyancy opposing due to the change in waterplane. Not something I would have built. But moving weight is easier than getting a grinder out until you're sure.
 
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Yep just another butt heavy inboard been there done that.

Just giving you in opinion from running and inboard for years. It isn't the platform position it how much is sticks out on back.

My thoughts is you go up on plane and that kicker is torquing down one side, and water goes over platform and pulls it down.

Here is what I would first which is more of a bandage.

First put a hydrofoil on ( I totally recommend them in addition to the tabs regardless). The hydrofoil will shorten your time to get up on plane even more than the tabs, and improve your stability. With both installed you get best of both worlds . These are easy to install and you can get no hole option for less than 200.00.

Next take that heavy cage thing off You don't want additional weight there. Last move any weight up further front to level off the boat. If needed add ballast to your cuddy somewhere. If its leaning on your kicker side counter balance that weight. Also move you batteries to center if you need too.

If that doesn't work next step is to move that platform up. It sounds hard, but even a few inches will help. Way easier than a pod.

BTW is that single tank in middle on boat? If it is I would make sure your it fairly full. That might change things as well.

Good luck.
Thank you for all the suggestions. My thoughts have been to ballast for sure. I will look into a hydrofoil for sure.
 
A boat is a first class lever. Anything put in the bow will raise the stern at least thats what they told me when I got a degree in Nautical Science. I'm not advocating a long term fix, just giving options for diagnosis as the hull may be suffering from squat or not lifting in the correct places due to the heavy stern
Ya ok, motor and drive plus all the crap
A boat is a first class lever. Anything put in the bow will raise the stern at least thats what they told me when I got a degree in Nautical Science. I'm not advocating a long term fix, just giving options for diagnosis as the hull may be suffering from squat or not lifting in the correct places due to the heavy stern
well I don’t have a degree in nautical science lol, but to counter all the weight in the back to lift the stern is going to take a few downrigger balls lol, and even if he did is it going to lift the stern 4-6” not a chance sorry bud
 
How does that engine run? Do you get full rpms? I also have the same drive with 1.78 gears and a 320 gxi. Initially the boat had f5s and it totally changed the handling when I switched those out for a set of f3s. Make sure you're not way over propped which would also contribute to the butt drag you're experiencing.
 
Ya ok, motor and drive plus all the crap

well I don’t have a degree in nautical science lol, but to counter all the weight in the back to lift the stern is going to take a few downrigger balls lol, and even if he did is it going to lift the stern 4-6” not a chance sorry bud
Depends how much balls ya got I guess
 

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The counter effect in the bow would be more effective due to less waterplane in the bow. Basically theres less buoyancy so adding 50 lbs in the bow would be like removing 250? from the stern. We would have to do a waterplane calculation to be exact. A shift in weight would be the best result, as you move from the fuller area stern to the bow the weight creates a greater resultant force as there is less buoyancy opposing due to the change in waterplane. Not something I would have built. But moving weight is easier than getting a grinder out until you're sure.
So a new update. I went to a scale today, and weighed the boat ,took the truck off. Try and get a rough estimate, maybe carrying water weight or something. The boat weighed 3570 KG.

Obviously theres the trailer, kicker, fuel, downrigger balls, cooler, propane tank, swim grid and fence, hard top cabin, downriggers, etc...

But 7800 lbs? I believe its supposed to be 4150 lbs, but not 100% on that. Seems too heavy. I've been going through the boat though, and can't figure out where it would be. Can someone help me identifying if there is foam in these boats? The stingers run bow to stern, and it seems like the floor of the engine compartment is just the fiberglass to the water? Any suggestions,

I want to find out if somehow there is water in it. Ive been into the transom a few times changing cables and poking and prodding into it and it seemed ok

Thanks again everyone for all the help so far, Im going to keep plugging away at it

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How does that engine run? Do you get full rpms? I also have the same drive with 1.78 gears and a 320 gxi. Initially the boat had f5s and it totally changed the handling when I switched those out for a set of f3s. Make sure you're not way over propped which would also contribute to the butt drag you're experiencing.
Probably the first thing to look at
 
Thank you for all the suggestions. My thoughts have been to ballast for sure. I will look into a hydrofoil for sure.
It’s very likely that your swim grid is causing drag when coming on plane and when turning, as has been mentioned. It’s possible though that this is occurring because of a heavy stern. As I said, my buddy had the same boat with a swim platform that looked like yours and his boat worked fine. Coolers, kickers, propane bottles, etc on a swim grid behind the boat all add greatly (leverage) to stern weight. Adding to your trim tabs can definitely help by increasing surface planing area at the stern which adds lift. Your tabs are small. I would add to their width and length to increase lift. I added more than 50% to the area of the tabs on my 682 and it helped. A hydrofoil also adds lift but I’m not crazy about something that generates a force on the leg’s cavitation plates. That said, lots of guys use them and like them. Adding weight to the bow definitely helps, as Vicious Fisher said. I store my spare cannon balls, extra emergency fuel tank, etc. in the furthest forward compartment. I know that adding weight to a boat goes against the grain ( I used to race boats so extra weight makes my skin crawl) but some ballast in the bow may help you in this case. I think you can make your boat work with a few changes in weight distribution and some additional lift. Your fence is aluminium so I don’t think it’s weight is significant but, if you were planning on carrying a bunch of stuff (weight) inside the fence, you may need to rethink that.
 
So a new update. I went to a scale today, and weighed the boat ,took the truck off. Try and get a rough estimate, maybe carrying water weight or something. The boat weighed 3570 KG.

Obviously theres the trailer, kicker, fuel, downrigger balls, cooler, propane tank, swim grid and fence, hard top cabin, downriggers, etc...

But 7800 lbs? I believe its supposed to be 4150 lbs, but not 100% on that. Seems too heavy. I've been going through the boat though, and can't figure out where it would be. Can someone help me identifying if there is foam in these boats? The stingers run bow to stern, and it seems like the floor of the engine compartment is just the fiberglass to the water? Any suggestions,

I want to find out if somehow there is water in it. Ive been into the transom a few times changing cables and poking and prodding into it and it seemed ok

Thanks again everyone for all the help so far, Im going to keep plugging away at it

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Your core is wood, stringer and transom, hope your not waterlog, again imo, take all the heavy stuff out of it, and try it, adding hydrofoil and bigger trim tab is not your answer.a good moisture meter will tell you if it’s wet,
 
You could get close to 7000 when you add all that to her gear in. Is the tank full? If you're that waterlogged you would for sure sell tell tale signs of cracking and rust marks. How's the bilge look? Swelling would be happening too.
 
You could get close to 7000 when you add all that to her gear in. Is the tank full? If you're that waterlogged you would for sure sell tell tale signs of cracking and rust marks. How's the bilge look? Swelling would be happening too.
I had a 23 Hourston with I/O that was pushing 8000 on the trailer. Does that 672 have a big tank?
 
How does that engine run? Do you get full rpms? I also have the same drive with 1.78 gears and a 320 gxi. Initially the boat had f5s and it totally changed the handling when I switched those out for a set of f3s. Make sure you're not way over propped which would also contribute to the butt drag you're experiencing.
Your boat is a different animal the his campion lol, but prop change make boat go better or worse in some case.with that motor and drive and right prop, when he put the hammer down that stern digs in for sure. I personally always keep my boat has light has can be, why push 8000lbs when I can push 6000lbs leaves me 2000lbs for my fat buddy’s with no boats lol
 
As a reference point, My 228G Grady which is 23 feet with a half a tank of fuel, main and kicker, zero water, with trailer with spare, full fibreglass top and usual gear like riggers weighs between 2940-3200KG attached to my tow vehicle. So add 250 KG for tongue weight and it’s in your weight range. I’ve weighed mine 22 times under different conditions. Your boat could weigh 3570KG. That 4150lb is probably hull only no gear.
 
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