work sharp knife sharpener

I think that thing would eat away a blade pretty quick. I find a sharpening steel is all i need.
 
Anyone tried one of these? I don't think I could develop the skill to use an expensive Japanese stone.

http://www.amazon.ca/Work-Sharp-WSKTSC-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B005HV0EFS
That gizmo is $80 an ordinary 1000X waterstone from Lee Valley-which is all I use-is $26.50 add a jig for another 13 bucks and you're good to go.

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http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32455&cat=1,43072,67175,67177

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http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32456&cat=1,43072

Believe me if I can sharpen a knife with that setup anyone can it's not rocket science.
 
Lol...........
 
good quality high carbon knives usually need nothing more that a few swipes on the steel to straighten out the wavy edge. I only resort to a stone when I hit something, or my BIL uses my knives, and then only just enough to remove any nicks. if your knives are not high carbon, you really do need some mechanical means of grinding away metal to put an edge back on. I had a beautifully made gerber fillet knife that was made out of super tough steel, I had to return it to gerber and have them do the sharpening. taught me a lesson in selecting fine cutlery, high carbon all the way.
 
You still need to run them over a steel after the last couple options

Just asking. My new knives I can maintain fine, but old dinged up ones need some help. The folks on Ifish like this thing.

I was Lol'n over the stone...Manual labour and stuff ;)

I like a good belt sander then a steel. A steel will maintain and smooth an edge not create one.

Those V sharpeners chew the chit out of an average knife and not good for your good knife.
 
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Sharpening knives might not be rocket science; however, it really is beneficial to know what type of edge angle and the hardness of the blade to accomplish that razor sharp edge most of us want. Most European knives have an “Edge Angle” of 15 per side, Asian styles are 10 per side. The “Rockwell Hardness,” determines how well a blade will retain its edge and the harder will hold the edge longer. However, will also require more time, a harder sharpener, and harder sharpening steel. Any sharpener or steel with a hardness rating less than that of the knife blade, just isn't going to work well!

I actually have some fairly good and semi-expensive knives. I bought a set of J.A. Henckels for the kitchen quite a few years ago and they finally got so dull I decided to sharpen them. After spending a fair bit of time on the first knife with a Rockwell Hardness of 58 and using my hand-held sharpener with a 20-degree V slot that did NOT even phase it, I decided it was time and actually bought one of those upper-end “Professional” Chef’sChoice sharpeners just for that set J.A. Henckels, plus all the rest collected and thrown in my kitchen knife drawer over the years and do recommend, "IF" one really has the need!

If sharpening a “soft” blade (and that doesn’t mean cheap), I would suggest just about any sharpener will work. I can attest there are sharpeners out that that will NOT work well with a knife having a Rockwell Hardness of 58. The “Professional” Chef’sChoice will do the job, and add it will take closer to 4-5 passes in each stage to come close to a razor edge with a 58 hardness rating. Would highly recommend “IF” you have a lot of knives needing edges restored. Emphasis the “IF” you have a lot of knives. If not - My advice, save your money and don’t buy ANY other than a good hand-held and sharpening steel.

After restoring the edges on my knives the Chef’sChoice now spends most of its life stored away. The only time it sees daylight is when I need to restore an edge on the J.A. Henckels. Quite honestly if I was to do it again, and would recommend, just by a J.A. Henckels hand-held sharpener with the Rockwell Hardness rating of 66 and sharpening steel saving those $$$. Again, unless you have a lot of knives that needs edges.

For most good knives with soft blades, just go out and buy any good hand-held sharpener with a 20-degree V slot and do it by hand. If it is "chew the chit out of an average knife" you are using to much force and if you have a "good knife" with a hard blade it probably won't even put the edge on it, unless it is harder than the knife blade. A good "hard" hand-held sharpener will regrind and hone the edge of any blade just as good as any professional sharpener. All that is needed for a "hard" blade is to draw the blade through the V slot 4-5 times with "moderate" force, then use lighter force until you get that razor edge you can shave with. For the "softer" blades use "lighter" force. From there both can be finished with the sharpening steel, as needed to retain that edge. Surprisingly I have found most don’t know how to properly use either. The key and very important is that 20-degree angle.

When my fillet knives, with soft blades need an edge and are "good knives" I actually use my hand-held V sharpener, which has four "rolling" steels. Finishing with a sharpening steel when needed. I do like to keep them razor sharp and here is exactly how I use the sharpening steel to do that. This is also the way Henckels website states:

1. Place the knife blade against the tip of the sharpening steel at an angle of approximately 20 degrees.

2. Pull the knife down and across the steel, describing a slight arc.

3. Repeat this action on the back of the steel to sharpen the other side of the blade.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 five to ten times, alternating the left and right side of the blade.

It is very important to maintain the angle of 20 degrees and to run the full length of the cutting edge along the steel from the hilt to the tip of the knife. Speed of movement plays no part in this process.

Just my two cents! :D
 
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to simplify, a steel is designed to take the 'wavy' edge off of cutting tools that result from their use. a steel is NOT designed to remove metal. a stone, course and fine, is designed to remove metal. all mechanical sharpers, belt or revolving stones are designed to remove metal.

high carbon content cutlery is relatively soft material. all you will need is a quality steel and an occasion backup to the stone for any nicks you might introduce.

knives that are Rockwell hard are not good for much and will require a mechanical means of sharpening, take your pick.

I don't plan on shaving with my butcher knife only filleting fish and such so a 10 degree angle is not in the cards. the approximate 20 degree angle is what you are shooting for but I can tell that once you get the 'stroke' down on the steel, whatever results is going to be 'right' for you. upend the blade and get the light just right to inspect the edge, end to end and you will know immediately if you are done. quality high carbon cutlery is worth the price. my tools are over 30 years old and still going strong.
 
My boy got me the Worksharp knife and tool sharperner for Xmas. Tested it on a paring knife, cheap fillet knife, and an old ham knife that came in a set that cost $19.99 30 years ago.

Made quick work of the turkey and am still cutting limes for Cuba libres. Oh, and there is no hair on my left forearm.
 
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My boy got me the Worksharp knife and tool sharperner for Xmas. Tested it on a paring knife, cheap fillet knife, and an old ham knife that came in a set that cost $19.99 30 years ago.

Made quick work of the turkey and am still cutting limes for Cuba libres. Oh, and there is no hair on my left forearm.

Nice present tubber. Congrats. Thanks for the review:).
 
I use the Chefs Choice Edge Select 120 and I am not looking back. Cheap knives quality knives....sharpens them all to "shave with" sharpness. Couple of issues" It will not do large thick hunting knives but All my skinning knives go through it fine and you have to make sure your knives are totally clean and dry before you use it. Thats it. But if you like to sit down with your favourite knife for a half hour or so and get it sharp this in not for you. With this thing you can to 10knives in a half hour.
http://www.paulsfinest.com/Chef-s-Choice-Model-120-EdgeSelect-Electric-Knife-Sharpener-White.html
 
I just got the Chefs Choice Professional 130 for Christmas. I have seen many butcher shops use these units so when Santa brought me one of these I was pretty stoked.

http://www.paulsfinest.com/Chef-s-Choice-Model-130-Electric-Knife-Sharpener-BRUSHED-METAL.html

Your going to love it and you will not look back. Just make sure that your knives are immaculately clean and dry before you run them through the diamond wheels. Any contamination on those diamond wheels will clog the plate rendering them useless. I have had the same unit for about 7 years and it still works fine and has serviced many blades. Once you have the ability to produce quality edges the next thing is to look after your knives. Always wash and thoroughly dry the knives after use. Leaving water droplets on edges to dry will pit the knives edge.
 
I have been looking around the net for knife sets and quickly found out you get what you pay for. That link you put up Birdsnest sure helped. Thanks. What I don't get is this Damascus steel thing. Googling it I find out it is no more and yet quality knives continue to use the term. Is the wavy contoured blade just a gimmick?
 
I dont know anything about the damascus steel thing. Every since I purchased the edge select I don't worry about getting any quality steel. Its more about the shape of the knife for me.

If you watch these two videos the work sharp unit seems complicated and may burn through blades: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YX1dpqStvE

Edge select http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Pzt13Bntdg

One drawback of the edge select is there are not parts available for it. I had a sticky spring on one of the wheels and could not get parts but took it apart and made it right with some silicone spray. Its still working fine. I especially like cutting these:



And these to:
 
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