Stalling Inboard Motor

Just to throw my 2 cents on the issue and confuse you even more, I had an old Dodge full size van that started stalling at the most random times and then would start again after sitting for a few minutes, rather unnerving to say the least. A mechanic told me the next time it happens to take off the center wire of the distributor and hold it with some pliers with a rubber grip next to something metal and then turn the key. If you have no spark ( which it didn't) then it was the distributor module. Problem solved.

Three things for a gas motor to run, fuel, air and spark. You probably have air. Maybe your fuel filters are clogged or some other problem with the fuel delivery system. Or no spark. Start eliminating what you can

Good luck
 
I thought it might be the carb (it hadn't been rebuilt in a while) so I had it rebuilt. The boat sure starts great now and runs awesome with the work I've done ...only it still stalls after it's been put under load it would seem.

It doesn't seem to sputter and surge as if it were running out fuel. To me it just seems to cuts out.

As I said, I sent the module back to Pertronix for testing so I should know it that's the problem or not.

Yes, I guess I should/could have tested to see if there's any spark when it dies and won't start. I'll do that when I get the module back if I need to.

The fuel pump could also be the issue and will check that if I'm getting spark after it stalls.

Thanks guys. I'll let know when I get the module testing results.
 
I'm betting on the module.:),
I should have asked did it do this before the electronic conversion?
 
I had a ground wasp in my tank once...... sounds similar to the symptoms I had
 
If it quits like you tuned off the key (as you say) it is likely an electrical problem and could be the module for sure.
 
Red Monster said:
It just occured to me that the plumping of the kicker's fuel line could be the issue. I plumbed the kicker off the fuel filter that is also supplying the main inboard motor. Maybe the inboard motor is sucking air through the kicker line because of a leaking check valve in the primer bulb? I guess I could install an inline anti-siphon valve or on/off valve. Or I could just disconnect the fuel line from the kicker assuming the valve at the disconnect stops air from entering?
Click to expand...
If I was a betting man... I would bet on this! :)
 
I agree with Charlie. Have seen this problem occur with others on other forums who have tried to run a main and kicker that share fuel supply.
 
Does the engine overheat at all? I had a similar problem when some mussels partially plugged the water intake into the engine. At higher RPM ,or load, the engine overheated and shut down. In my case the engine alarm would sound. Clearing the water intake tube solved this problem.
 
I run 2 separate fuel lines and filters off the tank. The kicker is there for an emergency as well as a trolling engine. Sharing a common fule line and filter increases the chance of loosing both engines from a single issue.
 
The weird thing is that after I installed the kicker, everything worked great for about five outings before main motor started stalling. One day I was coming back from a great day of fishing and it died. So because the plumbing job on the filter had been completed a while ago, I didn't consider that as a possible cause for the stalling. But now I realize that something that had been working before is obviously not working NOW and that "something" could be anything. So it occurred to me that although my plumbing job had been working great, maybe air started being sucked through the primer bulb which may not have a very strongest check valve it the first place.

Certainly I need to know whether it's a lack of gas or lack of spark issue if it turns out the module is not the problem. Pertronix is going to test the module, and I should hear from them soon.

Initially the boat would just stall and then would only run at low rpm. Now it seems to stall and not want to start for a while too. Given that the motor doesn't even want to start once it stalls, in that situation I would think it would be easier to check for spark. The stalling is quite consistent: If you push the rpm load on the motor for about 20 minutes, it stalls. Runs really great and then dies. Very weird.

I was wondering if it would be worth installing an in line pressure gauge in front of the carb in order to diagnose a lack of fuel to the carb ? Or would you simply remove the air cleaner and see if the carb is getting gas when it won't start?
 
Why not just remove the suspected problem by taking a pair of vice grips and GENTLY closing off the fuel line to the kicker and taking the squeeze ball out of the equation. If it doesn`t stall after 20 minutes or so, you have found the problem .
Rule #1 when trying to diagnose a problem eliminate the least costly and simplest to fix items first. As a side note, I would never run my main and kicker off the same fuel source. Your kicker is a safety feature as an alternate way home. Not much use to you if your main and kicker are running on the same tank and you get a batch of bad fuel somewhere.
 
Not much use to you if your main and kicker are running on the same tank and you get a batch of bad fuel somewhere.

do you fill up the both tanks at the same station or do you go to a different station for your kicker.
 
Start with a one way anti siphon valve on that racor to the kicker (about 2 bucks) as it threads right on to the bracket and has a hose fitting thats how mine is also get your fuel pump checked as it could be weak cant remeber but know a kicker is about 2 to 3 lbs but the main is up near 6 to 10 I think dont quote me on it IFL would be the one to phone or talk to.

Good luck Wolf
 
Like I said, I had not considered the kicker plumbing as a possible issue before now, but if the Pertonix ignition passes testing (I sent in the module for testing), I'll check the kicker plumbing next.

I only have one tank, and I'm not sure where I could put a second gas tank for the kicker? I do agree with what folks are saying about the usefullness of a second tank. I may need to perform some research into creative ways to install an additional, small fuel tank. On the swim grid seemed like a dumb place.

Yes Wolf, I was thinking an anti siphon valve might be the way to go but wasn't sure.
 
The reason said, I'd bet on the kicker is I had the exact same problem you are having, which BTW also didn't start until after a few weeks! And that was on two brand new engines! Wolf is correct about the fuel pumps pressures. The main pump was pulling all the fuel out of the weaker kicker pump - Then dying!

If you look on your fuel tank you will probably find a place to install an addition pick-up for the kicker? Biggest problem with fuel is water. If you do get water in the fuel it settles on the bottom. What I did was just install a shorter pick-up and line for the kicker. Two things: (1) I when the kicker ran out of fuel, I still had enough left to get me back in. (2) If I did get water in my tank, the main would be the first to pick it up, "hopefully" leaving enough good fuel on the top, for the kicker to get me back in.

I am still betting on the main is sucking all the fuel out of the kicker!
 
If you run a water separating fuel filter on each line you should be able to keep water out of the engines. This of coarse requires that you check once in awhile and drain off any water you find in the filters. As Charlie says most tanks are or should be made with 2 outlets fore hoses to be affixed. That is my setup, one tank with 2 fuel lines. If you get a really bad load of fuel that over powers the filters it will kill your main on your ride out to the fishing. Just as if you get a big dump of water in your car or truck it will show up a few minutes after leaving the station where you got it from.
 
I took the fitting off the filter and will use it to get the correct size anti siphoning valve for the fuel line to the kicker .

I also found that under either of my back to back seats there's actually room enough for two small 12 liter gas tanks. So for backup I think I'll rig up at least one small tank and stow it under one of the seats.
 
Okay, I replaced the Pertronix ignition module (I returned the new one I had recently installed and they sent me another one) and replaced the spark plug wires and the spark plugs. And among other things I changed the oil in the both the motor and the leg to start the new season of course. And I installed a shut off valve to completely isolate the fuel line to the kicker. And........... no more stalling! Yippeeeeeeeeee. I still want to get the carb adjusted (I think it's running rich) and the timing checked. So what a relief. It will probably take a few more trips to stop worrying.
 
I would check the electronic system because you never had a problem until you install the new electronics

I would check you battery cables for any cracking that could create a drop in voltage (during starting and during running). I had a electronic ignition on my VP. It started ok but would stall and not start again and after a few months it wouldn't even start some time cold.

I pulled a plug cable and check for spark (no spark) but I could smell gas. So I changed everything in the distributor and it still stalled. So I changed everything in the fuel system and it still stalled. Then during checking the starter wires connection, I snapped off a lug on the starter. To change out the lug I had to pull the starter so in the process of changing the starter I noticed that a foot away from the starter the power cable had a 1" crack and the wire was exposed a little. It was right under the engine so the only way to see it was by pulling the starter.

When I saw the damage wire I remembered that in my VP engine book (Wolf has my book now and he might be able to look it up) I read that if the electronic distributor isn't getting above 9.2 volts or amps?? (can rememeber) the distributor brain tells the spark system there is a problem and not to spark.

I change out the wire ($20) for a heavy duty welding cable wire and never had a problem again. That $20 wire cost me $900 in parts before I found the problem. But the thing that POed me the most was I've built small block Chev engine for racing for the past 25 year and this little 6 cyl engine had me puzzled.

Good Luck
 
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