Halibut anchoring ????

TW. When you pull your anchor line, wouldn't the knotted line be the one under load? I'havent met a knot yet that can't be undone with the right fids and a hammer though.....
 
Bowline on a bite!!! Great knot for shallower depths. Jam a 2/4 piece of wood and the ring and Scotsman stops and allows u as much buffer line as needed. When done buttin simply pull your anchor
 
Seems things have gotten complicated over the years. I am still using the same system Bennie showed me 25+ years ago, in the days when he, black and gold and myself were the only ones anchoring. Here's how; on the bottom of your Scotchman attach a shackle, pass your rope, rode thru the shackle, at the end tie on another shackle that will NOT pass thru the Scotchman shackle. Use a slip ring anchor only, (you will never loose) chain then rope, at the chain and rope connection tape in 2 stainless welding rods bent a little pointing towards the anchor. These catch the Scotchman shackle and hold your anchor the same as the $60 plastic things. If you gun tape all knots they will slide thru the shackle and not catch or hang up. Tie your boats bow rope to the smaller shackle, go thru your bow cleat then follow the boat and with a soft eye hook on your cleat midships. When stuff happens, big fish, tide, tug or any reason to release, snap a Scotchman to the soft eye and let go. Rope and boy slip forward and away you go. No need for a rope down the side of your boat, I believe this to be very dangerous. It takes longer to describe than rig and all costs rope, Scotchman and $10 of shackles. HM
 
Since everybody is asking questions I have one as well. My rode is made of three sections for anchoring in different depths.alot of time the knots get hung up on my ring, what size of ring is everybody using?is there a knot that passes through the ring easier?thanks

I use electrical tape to smooth out the knots on my pieced together anchor rode. I use a 4" ring. I can tell when the ring gets hung up on the knot, and sometimes I just give it a little more throttle to jump the knot. Same when I get to the chain. One last jolt of throttle to make sure the ring is all the way to the anchor.
 
TW. When you pull your anchor line, wouldn't the knotted line be the one under load? I'havent met a knot yet that can't be undone with the right fids and a hammer though.....

yes i use the figure eight loop on the rear cleat when pulling... but when at anchor, the 50' with the float has the boat, and prolly 60' of my anchor line is out with it. loose.
 
Seems things have gotten complicated over the years. I am still using the same system Bennie showed me 25+ years ago, in the days when he, black and gold and myself were the only ones anchoring. Here's how; on the bottom of your Scotchman attach a shackle, pass your rope, rode thru the shackle, at the end tie on another shackle that will NOT pass thru the Scotchman shackle. Use a slip ring anchor only, (you will never loose) chain then rope, at the chain and rope connection tape in 2 stainless welding rods bent a little pointing towards the anchor. These catch the Scotchman shackle and hold your anchor the same as the $60 plastic things. If you gun tape all knots they will slide thru the shackle and not catch or hang up. Tie your boats bow rope to the smaller shackle, go thru your bow cleat then follow the boat and with a soft eye hook on your cleat midships. When stuff happens, big fish, tide, tug or any reason to release, snap a Scotchman to the soft eye and let go. Rope and boy slip forward and away you go. No need for a rope down the side of your boat, I believe this to be very dangerous. It takes longer to describe than rig and all costs rope, Scotchman and $10 of shackles. HM

Halimark, what do you feel is dangerous about the rope down the side of the boat? I haven't had a problem yet, but I'd like to not have a holy $hit moment.
 
rope down the side of the boat being a problem? cant figure that out? why would i walk up to the bow when i can slide the line right to me at the rear helm? maybe a different style of boat but i would hate to un-hook at the bow in some of the water we hali fish in..
 
thanks guys, I get the picture now from all your similar but different set-ups--it removes the need to walk up front and deal with your anchor which can be a pain and at times dangerous and it uses your boats strength instead of your back. also allow you to operate things yourself.

trophywife--yep i totally agree, safety is a major deal especially in these west coast waters. I am curious though why you and a couple other people have stated that Hard anchoring to the bottom in swell is dangerous? --I have heard a couple people mention this but not too sure how it would be more dangerous (except the walking up to the bow part). If you anchor properly with loads of chain and a 3:1 scope (or more) on top of that, I have a hard time picturing how that is a problem waiting to happen. I would think that: the deeper the water, the more rope and the greater the swell motion is dampened. I can definitely see how the addition of the buoy (if tied off) would be more comfortable but i have a hard time thinking that it would make things safer--I'm not challenging your advice, i'm just trying to understand it and potentially avoid something bad in the future. If the swell becomes a problem in either of these set ups i would think that it might not be a good time to be on anchor. I am definitely new to the fishery in this area so all info is greatly appreciated, I have some good experience rough water anchoring but different places have different methods that have evolved with their fishery and this one is new to me. This set up is really similar to a sea anchor set-up i was taught, it is pretty cool, it probably would have saved a herniated back a few years ago had I known about it! I have to say I love anchoring because of this very debate--its an artform.
 
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rope down the side of the boat being a problem? cant figure that out? why would i walk up to the bow when i can slide the line right to me at the rear helm? maybe a different style of boat but i would hate to un-hook at the bow in some of the water we hali fish in..
Totally agree. This is the safest method because you can attach a quick release to let the bow rope loose and drop the anchor without having to run up to the bow and untie. My bow line runs back to my rear cleat where it is attached with a quick release on a trigger. If something happens and we need off anchor, simple pull on the trigger and we are free. When it's time to pick up and move we fire up the engine and run forward towards the bouy and the ring on the very end of my rode slides down to the trigger where we can grab it easily and then pull up the anchor by pulling the line through the ring attached to the bouy.
 
In answer to dangers of hard anchoring that is simple. In swell conditions the pressure created by the anchor can pull the bow down into the waves causing roll over. By having a 50 to 100 foot line between the boat and anchor bouy dampens this effect. Also as described earlier you can quickly release the anchor because it is an entirely self contained system not tied hard to your vessel.
 
I use a 50' section with a small float at 25'. Same bow to stern sliding line. Both ends of 50' have a stainless "clip" for releasing. Definitely would not want to be 100' or more away from anchor buoy. Had a couple hang up their downriggers on my rode and didnt understand that they needed to back off to release it. As they pulled my boat closer they got the idea.. Just some retired Albertans checking out what we were doing while i honked and yelled at them to stay away.. Could have passed behind my boat while trolling.. They were clueless as to what was going on.. I took it easy on them once they backed off the rode while our boats were less than 70' apart.
Thanks for being so patient with us Albertans….we normally only get one or two weeks a year to enjoy the fishery that you have year round. Totally different techniques compared to lake fishing. It is constantly a learning experience. The first time out to BC fishing, the guide used the scotchman system for his anchor when we went for Halibut. I was quite impressed with how easy it was to retrieve the anchor after it was brought up and hanging from the buoy. He didn’t use a tag line between the buoy and the boat though just had the buoy floating at the bow by the cleat. Since that I have been doing the same with my own boat with the exception of having to braid in a stainless quick link in the rode because of the windlass. Curious about the extra 50’ between the buoy and the boat though, what is reasoning?.
 
Couple of reasons for the intermediate line.. Acts as a buffer in strong current so the boat isn't being pulled downward and it allows you to easily see which way you are swinging on tide change so you can keep from tangling into it with your gear. It also gives you 50 feet of slack to get around on the upstream side of your Scotsman when you go to receive the anchor.
 
Also may add i run almost 100 ft as i dont want to be anywhere near that rode connected to the bottom. further away the better trust me ive seen it you do NOT want that rode wrapped around your boat leg seen it many a time now... scary stuff last guy tried lifting the leg only for the pump to burst and had to cut line so lost rode/anchor etc about 2 grand worth of damage ....

IF YOU DO NOT understand it fully please go with someone who has done it many a time.... saw a post on the forum about a guy "trying" he river for the first time.. and his partner died its the last thing we need the ocean and its currents will kill you the have no mercy respect it...
 
Wolf stated best, if you do not understand fully go with an experienced person a few times and learn. Then practice somewhere safe=no current, no wind and nobody close. Some missunderstood my post as I never go to the bow for anchoring reasons. I have seen to many bow to stern lines stretched sideways when the wind, tide puts stretch in that line. Bennies way aleviates that. With hali season getting busier lets have a safe season with no anchor problems for all. Good luck.

HM
 
Exactly ive seen some VERY bad things out there guys anchoring on FULL moon tides?? who the hell does that?? you may have at most 2 hours really not worth the time and VERY dangerous as the currents switch VERY fast and HARD... and most fisherman like to try and stay to the bitter end which is a bad thing. like i said before go with some who has done it MANY times say 20 or more times everyday is different and situations, ive probably done it over 1000 times and it still makes me nervous some days... respect it
 
I'd like to hear some tips on how to line you're boat up before dropping the anchor. Trying to anchor you're boat over a small area when the current is running and the wind is blowing can be a frustrating experience!
 
Sometimes i drift over the selected spot to determine wind and current effect.
 
yep I agree with trophywife--it is really important to know your drift before you lower your anchor, its not always straight forward. Also trying to predict ways that your boat is going to behave when you set your anchor and while you fish or whatever is pretty important if you want to stay safe. drifting with your engine in idol and carefully watching your gps and the water before you drop is a good start.
 
Exactly ive seen some VERY bad things out there guys anchoring on FULL moon tides?? who the hell does that?? you may have at most 2 hours really not worth the time and VERY dangerous as the currents switch VERY fast and HARD...

Does the same thing apply to New Moons? I was of the impression that it did, and have only ventured out in the periods between New and Full moons, but tomorrow is a New Moon and the currents in the afternoon don't look too bad, fastest is 1.23 knots, in a window from around 11 to 6.

I concur with mjd and trophywife, always drift over the area for a period to see how the boat moves before piking the spot to drop anchor to be where I want to be. And even then, rarely end up exactly where I wanted, but that's just a matter of more practice. But if the action is clearly too fast, it's off entirely or off to a different area.
 
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