Halibut anchoring system

WOW no hali in mud really??? hmmm ok

above is all the wrong info sorry to say. NOT trying to start an argument or debate do whatever you want but whatever you do is good good advice and maybe hire one of the many guides who do it for a living and dont be afraid to ask questions..

Good luck Wolf
 
We don't get too many Halibut out of the mud either ;),
everyone has their own way of doing it.
From personal experience I would say the most important thing is to keep
close eye on the weather and currents.
If it looks too dicey , forget it.
 
If you don't want to deal with the extra anchoring gear back troll to hold your position, or lay tracks on the drift and only drift so far then reset up on the same drift to keep the scent somewhat central.
 
I use 200 feet of 1/2 inch 3 strand polly that's spliced to 300 feet of 5/8 or 1/4 inch polly. It floats, it cost way less and meh, it works for me. I anchored in my buddies boats with there sinking braid and its harder to retrieve once your achor is at the scotsman.

My 2cents
 
Birdsnest said:
I use 200 feet of 1/2 inch 3 strand polly that's spliced to 300 feet of 5/8 or 1/4 inch polly. It floats, it cost way less and meh, it works for me. I anchored in my buddies boats with there sinking braid and its harder to retrieve once your achor is at the scotsman.

My 2cents
Click to expand...

Whatever works for you, but polypropylene has almost no stretch and is generally not considered good for anchoring.


Franko

MILF (Man, I Love Fishing)
 
When you have 3 to 4 hundred feet out of the poly it is very springy especially with a scotsman out front 50 feet or more. The issue I have with sinking braid is that it can lay on the bottom and become caught at an unexpected short length. Reasonably unlikely while hali fishing but I do a fair amount of anchoring while surfing right at shore in reasonably large swell in shallow water where it can be far more intense. You have to do what your comfortable with when doing these activities and I see no problem with polly rope. What ever gets you hooked up!
 
I agree poly is the way to go.
Cheap and doesn't lay down and tangle on the bottom.

Oh and don't forget to stay out of the mud.
That's where all the cranky old curmudgeons fish.
 
I myself use 700' of braid, old habits die hard. Old school thinking is that's the way to go, based upon the the concept of an over night stay on the hook plus longevity of the rode. As a previous commie, we use to anchor out on WCVI and ran LOTS of scope. I would imagine poly might be okay for day fishing but you will have to replace every couple of years. If you are going to be a cheap ******* and buy the minimal amount of rope then do us all a fav and stay in shallow water. Nothing fires a guy up more than seeing a boat drifting toward you when you have lots of rope out.
 
The word is thrifty.
Just trying to share my experience with someone who was looking for info.
But as usual nothing but malicious replies to my suggestions.
That is why I rarely post here.
 
Found that bigger chain, and a bunch of it, seems to make the most difference for me getting good constant hookups.

Fishing ego? What a joke.
 
One other problem with poly is if you ever have to break it off. As the stuff floats now you will have whatever you left in the ocean just hanging out mid water waiting to be snagged by and unsuspecting boater/troller/dragger....even cheap sinking ground line is better than poly because if you ever break it off at least it sinks to the bottom. We used to use floating rope for anchor line at the outpost and it worked well until you shacked an anchor off for some reason. That anchor rope would become a huge hassle to the commercial trollers in the area and believe me they let us know about it. So now it is all sinking line for me and that is why...
 
Samnjoe said:
The word is thrifty.
Just trying to share my experience with someone who was looking for info.
But as usual nothing but malicious replies to my suggestions.
That is why I rarely post here.
Click to expand...

No worries. I used to frequent a different fishing site and the bitching and moaning over there was something else. I could deal with that no problem but when they set the site up to be optimized for tap-a-talk it was the last straw for me. I can't stand jumping through hoops trying to sign in. Never been back. But I just wanted to say thanks for the info.
 
Birdsnest said:
When you have 3 to 4 hundred feet out of the poly it is very springy especially with a scotsman out front 50 feet or more. The issue I have with sinking braid is that it can lay on the bottom and become caught at an unexpected short length. Reasonably unlikely while hali fishing but I do a fair amount of anchoring while surfing right at shore in reasonably large swell in shallow water where it can be far more intense. You have to do what your comfortable with when doing these activities and I see no problem with polly rope. What ever gets you hooked up!
Click to expand...

That's a good point about the Scotsman. It definitely serves two purposes. I was lucky enough to be taught how to anchor by an accomplished guide and mariner. In his opinion, the Scotsman is one of the main reasons you can use a lot less scope when anchoring because it absorbs a lot of shock that would normally work to unseat your anchor.

You have an unarguable point that the poly is cheap, that's for sure!
 
Here's a great discussion of old style anchors. Guess I talked myself into a newer style next purchase. :)

http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/old-generation-anchors.php

I think an extra tweak to the breakaway style chain on the Bruce style would be to use a much smaller chain, say 500lb strength or so, from the "heel" of the anchor up the shank to where the tie wraps attach the chain to the eye. At that point upsize with a shackle to the real working chain. I think it makes it tough for the Bruce to go claw side down when there is a lot of chain weight on the opposite side of the shank. Also if you end up in the very, very rare case where the anchor is truly fouled: the weak chain right at the anchor will probably break safely and you'll only lose an anchor and a couple feet of cheap chain. You should get all your main chain and rope back: sort of a double break away rig. :)

Finally for you guys that are rerigging boats with twins and have the cash: you can now get Auto Pilots that will anchor the boat for you with the outboards. I think that's got to be worth a LOT in terms of safety.. Check out Skyhook Anchor for Merc but I think other brands have similar options.

https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/gauges-and-controls/steering/joystick-piloting-for-outboards/

Video of Skyhook in action.
http://youtu.be/uchXzhhY4ZY
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Samnjoe,
Don't see how these replies are malicious, Definitely not directed at you! MOST guys probably have at least $5,000 or more invested in their boat, PLUS nice rods and reels for both salmon and halibut, good electronics and a well stocked tackle box. Just doesn't seem to make sense to me that someone would cheap out on an extra 150' of rode that would allow him to enjoy the day without the worry of dragging. Great situation where more is better. Eventually that someone who is under equipted will drag into someones anchor and really ruin his day, like they did mine, TWICE . What we really need is some sort of general indicator so guys have an idea as to how much scope you got out before they dump the hook close by. Never ever happen! Most of the curmudgeons in the mud run LOTS of scope, when buddy plunks down close and we try and let them know, we get the finger. That's why I always anchor AWAY from everyone but misery loves company and apparently my spot is the hot spot, I'm nobody special, happened on Sunday off Discovery. Like I said earlier, I got no problem with polypropylene rope EXCEPT with those guys who use it in Vic Harbour on their traps without a sink weight.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't think its ego on here its just that many of us have gone through scary incidents and recognize the value of having a proper anchor systems, and knowing how to use. Mostly advice and your taking it wrong way.

You guys go ahead but polypropylene line is stupid idea down where we fish in the south with currents etc... Maybe Birdsnest is in a totally different area.... I still don't recommend that myself but hey don't know the situation...The reason that line mainly isn't used is because people leave it out in sun...That rope breaks down so you know.... Of course its a ****** shock absorber....among other things... Its just sucks to splice with a fid properly.

Down here majority of use Bruce anchors set almost instantly, and when tide swings we stay in place. If we switched to danforths we would need a greater scope...My system has 600 feet of line, I carry twice my boat length in chain alone... I also use one that is sized for two feet more than my boat... and were anchoring in 200-350 water. The Bruce only requires a 30 degree angle at the shackle...And anchor like a danforth would need 15 degrees..So it not practical to carry 1000+ feet of rope. This system I have will set quickly and never will get unhooked unless I fish in stupid current which I don't do.

The Danforth has its place though...A danforth can be an excellent overnight/storm anchor used closer to shore...

I also find the Bruce easier to break..Sure you can get it on bottom but you ever try to get a danforth that is buried in mud...Its brutal if it set hard.

What I find most important is just go to a place get the on made/sized exactly for your boat.... Seriously you may save $100 doing it yourself... When you buy an anchor setup it is totally spliced up ready to go and you get all the advice you need... Its scary out there let Wolf tell you some of his stories.... We see it every year... Those systems are designed this way for a reason...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You seem to think HALIBUT anchor set up line will sit on the bottom I dont think ive ever encountered that as the current play too much into it MAYBE on the slight chance on a complete slack tide and absolutely NO wind then maybe......the weight of the boat and current keeps it well off the bottom.
ever try and anchor when the wind/current is going fast on to hook on for a sec then pop off then on then off then on...boon dogging about a 1/2 mile or so....ive found the Danforth the worst for that and was always taking it home to rebend it and straighten. The Bruce have found WAYYYYYY better if it gets stuck snap go the zap straps and free and I hook up 95 % of the time with out slipping.

And dont think Poly is the way to go can get tangled easier where sampson braid rarely ever get in a tangle..

We are talking about HALIBUT systems not in a bay where there is no current and much wind. and agree ego is not the problem people not being safe is the major PROBLEM ....im sure ill see more gain this year just like every year.....

Be safe is all we all worry about we dont want people losing there life like up north a few times now... its really not worth losing a life over a halibut....

Good luck Wolf
 
What Wolf said, and Like Wolf I've been anchoring off Victoria for hail a long, long time like 25 years long. Both as a Charter and now as a weekend warrior. Doesn't make me an expert or a guy with fish ego, but it does make me is a guy that's had lots of trial and error experience. Like almost getting pulled down stern first off Discovery more than once (slow learner). Also trying to windless haul up an 325' of G3, stuck in bumps at Gear Buster off Oak Bay, only took 45 min becausec we never heard of attaching zap straps. Old guys like me will tell Ya, There was a time when the Hali Derby was nicknamed the "sink your boat derby" because at least one boat would get pulled down stern first. What I've learned the hard way over time is don't over extend the ability of your ground tackle.
 
I agree on the claw or plow.
I like poly because it floats and is easy to pick up off the water.
I have never drifted into anyone.
We anchor mostly on rock piles up the north end of the island where the closest guy is a mile or more away if any.
Most of our good spots are only 100 to 200 feet.
Everyone does it different.
Ive never had a problem even in pretty rough seas.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Halibut anchoring with windlass vs hand pull
Replies
19
Views
1K
Umos
Umos
S
Windlass questions..
Replies
33
Views
2K
Fixit
Fixit
carpeweekend
Halibut Anchoring System - $500
Replies
5
Views
1K
carpeweekend
carpeweekend
V
350 carbureted closed system swap to 350 MPI?
Replies
2
Views
562
wildthing
wildthing
W
Halibut Anchor System
Replies
0
Views
493
Wooly
W
Back
Top