Cut-Plug Tying

[Deckhand Frank]

I have built my own rod, refinished a nice peetz reel, poured my own weights and now want to tie my own herring rigs.

Could someone please tell me the most common size hook used (3 or 4/0?) and the gap between the hooks. Assume I will use larger herring. (I have not decided if I want to go all the way and catch these as well!!). Also, if you could help me with the length of the leader, I would appreciate it. Thanks in Advance for your help/comments.

F

 

[cowieslabslayer]

go 4/0 for the trailer hook and go 5/0 for the tow hook, go quality for hooks-mustad, gammies, ect.
The spread I use is my fist
let me know
cs

 

[cowieslabslayer]

for leader spread go as long as you possibly can for netting large chinook, use a mid-line if nessessary.
9 ft is quite common.
cs out

 

[Eagle Eyes]

use one single(to hold the bait) and two trebles(to provide the action and hook the fish) it works waaaaay better.

 

[Deckhand Frank]

Thanks, so far.[8D]

I really would like lots of opinions on hook distance. I was told 6" but this is way too long. Fist size does sound about right, so I will give it one vote for 4"

Frank

 

[salmon9]

I think the best cut plugs are tied with lighter lines (15-20 lb Maxima Ultragreen), 3/0 single hooks and thin gauge hooks. I like medium to large herring, preferably fresh if I can get them, if not fresh then brined herring, and I like to insert the eye of the hooks into the flesh (at least the tail hook). When I know the fish will be less than 15 lbs I prefer 9263E Mustad 3/0 hooks (don't know if you can buy them any more). I also use 3/0 gammies, sometimes 4/0 if I am fishing for big springs with 20-25 lb Maxima Ultragreen. Hook spacing depends on the size of the bait and how you rig your bait (i.e. insert the eye on tail hook, top hook through the cut of the bait). Mine are around 3.5 inches between the wraps on each eye of the hook. The larger the space between the hooks the more the line bulges out which I think doesn't fish as well. I tie my leaders around 4-5 ft in length, then a swivel, then another 4-5 ft to another swivel (this is then tied to the main line or attaches to a flasher).

 

[Mr. Dean]

Pretty much as salmon9 states it. I do like the smallish hooks. I believe that they set easier on the strike but will move up to a 6/0 when targeting slabs.

Very important: Space them out on an as needed basis. Only what it takes to rig up the bait.

Good luck.

 

[5-Salt Fever]

I like VMC galvy hooks in a 6/0-7/0 for blue lable herring and 5/0-6/0 for green lable herring.

The VMC hooks are easy to sharpen to razor point and a whole lot cheaper then a Gami or Owner. I like a stiffer leader/heavier test for durability and maximum action from dodger or flasher. I will tie 40lb flourocarbon and fluro coated line for stealthier leader in the heavy tests. P-Line Floroclear or Ande Florocarbon line are very tough lines with good stiffness for hoochies, Ry Davis, or cut plug action off the flasher or dodger

http://www.p-line.com

I use an egg-loop knot double hook rigging - and wrap them on pipe foam pipe insulation tubes easy storage and quick changes.

 

[Deckhand Frank]

I talked to a lodge guide and he suggested that they used 5" for their pre tied hooks.

He also mentioned that some guides use a sliding hook on the upper (tow hook) and they can adjust to each herring. He said the downfall is that if it is tied loose, then it will slide down and distort the herring.

Thanks again for the input. It looks like 4/0 - 5/0 with 5" spacing to start and I'll tie the rest as needed after I see how these work.

Frank

 

[fishhawk8]

One thing that I would like to add. My experience says forget the sliding top hook.

I was tying my cut plugs this way for awhile and while fishing up in Bamfield I lost 5 or 6 fish that would hit on the top hook and drive it down onto the back hook with such force that it would just pop off the back hook and well.... bye bye.[:0] I got tired of losing fish after fish and switched back to the non-sliding tie up and the rest were history. Haven't lost a fish since due to a knot.[8D]

Has anyone else had that problem with the sliding set-up or was it just me? Hmmmm. I never did find out, but the slider never got another opportunity either.

 

[Mr. Dean]

I've never tried a sliding rig. I always just tie them up to match the bait that I'm using at any given time. Nothing fancy, just a couple of smells to the leader - Not on/along the leader.

Some guys believe that if the fish hooks the top one, then it would slide down too the 2nd and get hooked up with two hooks instead of only one.

My thinking was now the lower snell now has two jobs to perform. One is doing what it's intended for (holding the lower hook) And the second job as acting as a stopping not for the 1st hook all-the-while the fish is runn'n turn'n and shake'n with that hook grinding on the knot.

Never thought of one going POP - Thanks.

It's easy to keep a bait in the water if you have one back-up rod for each rod being fished. Have them ready to go and trade off if should something happed to the first rod. Then re-rig it and hold it as the standby rod.

I usually go out with 10 or so mooching rigs stored in a handy location (snip, tie, Done!). At the end of the day I just tie up whatever it takes to get the count back. This is real enjoyable w/ a cold beer as soon as you hit the dock. []

Being able to trade rods is NICE when you get into a good bite. Gives you the ability to keep fishing while you have to fuss with tying on a new leader.

Also keep spare materials on the boat in case you run out of pre-ties. It would just plain suck if you should find yourself with a pole and no hook for the end of it. [}]

As for the length of the leader. I make mine a full arms length apart (6.5 ft.?). This way I'm ensured that they'll fit the rods and safely hold a hook in place as they are stored as secondary's.

Have fun fish'n! - Dean

 

[Mr. Dean]

fishin_magician:
You're about three miles outta bounds when you stated. "you guys make cutplugging sound like ROCKET SCIENCE."

We haven't FINISHED making then yet. Never mind FISHING them.
Soooo in a technical way..........We're not cut-plugging!!

This thread isn't about the bait (other than size of)...Big customers....big fish...Fishing destinations...Who won what derby...how well the freezer works....or whether to brine or not to brine.

It's about making a tandem mooching/cut-plug rig.
Lets try to focus and keep THIS one on track.

This poster asked for specific information. At least three different questions, maybe more. I believe you only answered one while you were going around in circles trolling, casting, flying.....

Don't worry FM. The fishing part will come, in time.

 

[powder]

F.M. I say again you never won any derbies at Langara, sorry, lets be honest on this forum okay, or you will lose credibility!

 

[Despy]

Digging up 5 month old posts in an attempt to discredit other forum members seems a tad vindictive to me !!!

 

[the runt]

Hey Deck go to salmon university .com they show you everything on the site, also a video on how it should look in the water.Also there has to be 20 ways to rig a herring.Also i just buy mine tied up at about 20 cents apiece that not bad.eagle claw uses mustad hooks.
good luck

 

[victoriaboater]

I use a long leader 6'-7', single hook to pull the bait, angle the cut for the right roll, bury the trailer single hook in the back end with only the arced portion of the hook sticking out. Works for me.

 

[Fishinnut]

The biggest thing here that has been overlooked is the way you are going to put the hooks into the herring. Is the trailing hook going to hang past the herring or go into the tail? Is the front hook going to be in the front of the herring or will both be threaded through the front of the herring and on each side of the herring.

Ocean summer king fishing I use very large black label herring, 11-12". I like to put the hooks really close together and run them all of the way through the bait and back out, with one in the middle and one in the tail. I do it many ways.

I usually wait until I get my bait and tie them then. If you know about the size bait you are going to use, measure it out on the bait and make them that size. I use about a half a dozen ways to tie up herring. They all have different lengths between the hooks.

 

[dog]

Interesting idea here filleting out the tail end of the back-bone.

http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?p=543947

 

[Fishinnut]

I was down in Wesport area called Grays Harbor here in Washington State. It is a huge shallow harbor off of the coast. I was trolling whole herring while the other guys were cut plugging on the boat. I had the purple label herring spinning just the way I like it and a dogfish hit it. It removed some of the meat from the tail. I cut the tail off as I use fluorocarbon 50# leader. After a couple of herring the way I rig it the fluorocarbon, it gets all kinked up and hard to use. I didn't want to have to start over so I cut the tail off and it worked even better. Next fish was a 40 pound king that hit it. I was told by some others that the enzymes that come out of the spine drive big chinook crazy. Not sure if that is true or jut the big "Death Roll" I use is it.

 

[salmon9]

I prefer placing two hooks on one side of the cutplug; however, unless the bait is very fresh or heavily brined for at least 24 hrs the top hook pulls out and ruins the spin. For frozen brined bait I place the top hook through the top of the herring. I like to brine my bait after it is thawed and cut - seems to be firmer and I am ready to go when out on the water.