Advice on re-lining reels

What's your fishery like?

If you deal with shakers (small undersize salmon) or other small bycatch, then running braid with a mono topshop is ideal. The braid will telegraph more action to your rod tip, and make it easier to identify small fish on the line. Braid is also going to give you better sensitivity, for whatever you think that's worth.

I spool my salmon moochers with backing, to braid, to mono top shot. I like this best overall.

If you're derby fishing and you tend to have larger fish in your fishery, pure mono is likely to give you the best advantage, as the stretch of mono will make it easier to land fish, especially if you're not experienced. Even if you are experienced, imho it gives you the best shot at landing a fish. After you get used to braid, pure mono is kinda like a condom. Less sensitivity. Maybe you like that, maybe you don't. To each their own. :p

If you find yourself trying to keep your fish away from a seal, braid is absolutely better. Not that you'd be assured to get it away from the seal, but your chance does go up. It's better for snags too, but if your mooching on the troll bottom snags should never really happen. As others have mentioned, you don't need to replace the braid often, especially if you run 50-65lb braid.

Keep in mind, that braid under 50lb is might be difficult to clip onto your downrigger (for whenever you want to clip on past your top shot length). Topshot length varies by angler, but 20' is minimum, up to maybe... 60'? It varies, adjust to your preference for your fishery, depth preference, and braid lb test rating.

As an aside, keep some salt water lathering soap on board. If you use fish attractant and it gets onto the pads of the clip, only soap is going to save you. AP Tackleworks makes some (wish I could find it in stock!) and I'm sure others as well.

I'd recommend backing, 50 - 65lb braid, and a 30' topshop of high vis 20-30lb mono for the top shot. Save your flouro for between the flasher and bait/lure. I'm not convinced flouro makes a difference in our waters, as it's not exactly crystal clear, especially at depth. Also, replace your flouro at the slightest nick - it's not as forgiving as mono.

Also, you want an FG Knot for your topshot, it will go through the rod guides easier than double uni. Double uni is much easier to tie though, so tie whatever gives you the most confidence.

Hope that helps - tight lines!
Additional factor is depth. If you're regularly fishing at 150-200 ft or more, mono main line can stretch a helluva lot. Strikes from teener springs look like a faint tap, tap because the stretch in the line absorbs almost all of the hit. Fishing braid down deep telegraphs the strike more clearly and makes it a lot faster and easier to release from the clip.
 
good thread. thread, lines, haha, see what i did there?

i'm going to admit to being rebellious and breaking the Cdn rule book of downrigger fishing with a mooching set up. i've been doing it for a few years (Shimano GT) and i've started wondering why. so i asked around and the answer i get is 'tradition'. the deeper i look, the more questions i ask, the more i learn and mooching set ups were never designed for trolling at 200+ feet with riggers. and that's why it's a PITA at least to me. checking gear is a *****, dealing with tangles, and even just getting outta the clip sometimes. i was told mono with moocher was 'The Way' but i've changed my mind.

new set up is a Penn Squall conventional lever drag (still 700 less than an Islander) with a Talora 9 foot rod and 50lb indicator braid with mono top shot. the reel speed and power is amazing and so much easier to reel in from the deep. yes i know i look like an American out there....

some guys talk about a fair fight for the salmon etc, but i find them so hard to catch as it is, and if i land 5 in a season i feel lucky, and that's putting in a lot of time. once i'm an old pro and landed hundreds of salmon i might try and make it harder, but to me each salmon is a miracle and i can hardly believe it if i get one to the boat so i'm looking for any advantage i can get. going to Nookta and fishing less than 100', the moocher is on again.
 
I was running cheap 25lb mono that spooled terribly and twisted. It was a nightmare. Just redid my reels two days ago. Now I have 50# 8-strand braid backing spliced to 100 ft of 40# mono.

Had a charter buddy recommend this setup so going to give it a try.

My hootchies and spoons all have 30# mono leaders, but I think I will start to swap those out with 40# as well. Have heard some say to use 50# mono for hootchie leaders, might try that also.

(For the braid, I am using Daiwa J-Braid 8 strand. Was on sale for something like $20 on Amazon for 300 yards.

I have been using the 80lb of the same line on my bottom fishing rods (ling etc) and so far zero complaints, although the dye tends to leach out of the line. but that doesn't really bother me - might bother others though. Have yet to have it break, twist, etc, and it spools nicely. Hopefully I love it on my trolling setups - have yet to try, hopefully tonight!)
 
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Palomar knot is the best for braid hands down
I am far from a knot expert!

Have never heard of the palomar knot. Looks painfully easy and fast, and would be much easier to do on the boat especially if seas are a bit rough. Would it work well with mono as well, or best used for just braid?

Growing up my dad showed me a simple knot, and it is what I use most of the time. NO idea what it is called, but the one where you feed through the eye, come back, twist 3-5 times, then back through the loop you created right at the eye, then back through the new bigger loop, pull tight. I guess we tend to stick with what we know.

Since I got my boat last year I have certainly started learning more knots and expanded my horizons a bit, but for tying on swivels/clips, spoons, etc, I always go back to that knot my dad taught me 30+ years ago.
 
I am far from a knot expert!

Have never heard of the palomar knot. Looks painfully easy and fast, and would be much easier to do on the boat especially if seas are a bit rough. Would it work well with mono as well, or best used for just braid?

Growing up my dad showed me a simple knot, and it is what I use most of the time. NO idea what it is called, but the one where you feed through the eye, come back, twist 3-5 times, then back through the loop you created right at the eye, then back through the new bigger loop, pull tight. I guess we tend to stick with what we know.

Since I got my boat last year I have certainly started learning more knots and expanded my horizons a bit, but for tying on swivels/clips, spoons, etc, I always go back to that knot my dad taught me 30+ years ago.
It works great on mono as well. I use it on everything. EVERYTHING!
 
That's the old Clinch knot and you're using the improved version works even better with a doubled line.

improved-clinch-knot640x280.jpg
 
I am far from a knot expert!

Have never heard of the palomar knot. Looks painfully easy and fast, and would be much easier to do on the boat especially if seas are a bit rough. Would it work well with mono as well, or best used for just braid?

Growing up my dad showed me a simple knot, and it is what I use most of the time. NO idea what it is called, but the one where you feed through the eye, come back, twist 3-5 times, then back through the loop you created right at the eye, then back through the new bigger loop, pull tight. I guess we tend to stick with what we know.

Since I got my boat last year I have certainly started learning more knots and expanded my horizons a bit, but for tying on swivels/clips, spoons, etc, I always go back to that knot my dad taught me 30+ years ago.
Stay away from that clinch or improved clinch on the braid, especially the really slick waxy feeling stuff.
 
Uni or Palomar for me. Palomar leaves doubled line through the swivel or lure - supposedly stronger.

I use 80 - 100 lb braid for both salmon and ground fish. I buy 1500 m reels. It’s cheap.
 
This is called the Trilene knot and I have used it for 10 years. Almost never have a line to hook failure now.
The knot can be considered a "100% knot" in that the line often breaks above its rated strength, not at the knot. In that respect it is equal to the Palomar Knot, although the Palomar is far superior with braid and super lines.
When tying at home I also dip line in soapy water before doing final cinch. The heat generated by tightening can actually damage the line so the soapy water helps avoid that.

View attachment 68711
Yes thats the knot I use for some reason it tests to set better than a regular clinch knot. I really is a great knot for mono.
 
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