Advice on re-lining reels
- Thread starter DollarBoat
- Start date
Dogbreath
Well-Known Member
Any knot as long as it's tied with a doubled line.
Adrenafin
Well-Known Member
Palomar knot is the best for braid hands down
Corey_lax
Crew Member
I use palomar knot for pretty much everything now.
prodjsaig
Well-Known Member
The 50' of topshot mono stretches when you get a big spring. the idea is that it may prevent the hook from pulling out. I used to use braid to flasher as well but the give in the mono may just land you a meaner fish I dont know.
prodjsaig
Well-Known Member
Yup palomar knot as well. All I use and I can show you the best knot I use for hooks one sec.
Salish Ranger
Active Member
I’ve had two break 40lb flouro in the last week. Thankful to pull the flashers back in but pissed off at losing brand new Silverhorde lures.
Salish Ranger
Active Member
I buy 80lb braid in 1500 m rolls. It’s cheap and lasts forever. I also run it straight to the flasher.
The bonus with heavy braid is not having to switch out reels when fishing Ling.
Chasin' Dreams
Well-Known Member
I don't use it and know quite a number of fellow guides that won't go near it actually. Big fish with quick turns and quick head shakes will snap it much quicker than mono IMO. No stretch equals quick snap on quick tugs in the opposite direction of the line coming to the fishes mouth. Mono always give a bit of forgiveness on a long, nasty fight with a big one.
Yes it has some good abrasion resistance but you should be checking your leader constantly all the time for nicks, abrasion marks etc. I use 50 mono leader mostly on my rigs for Springs and always have pre ties on the ready to switch out after pretty much every good fight or if any sign of wear on the leader. Feeding Salmon are aggressive and not leader shy. Ever leave flouro in the sun too long, and in low humidity conditions for extended periods of time? Dry, snap, crack even when it looks healthy. Mono takes much more abuse in that respect IMO. My buddies and I used to use flouro for steelhead fishing for a few seasons too but after time and time again seeing negative results with lot's of different brands that came to an end too with all of us. Just our experience with it so another perspective to consider.
Chasin' Dreams
Well-Known Member
Yes im replying to the use of flouro even for leaders if mono is the main line. Better scenerio in my opinion though vs straight flouro for main and leader.
prodjsaig
Well-Known Member
Good point with the 50lbs leader I have been using 40lbs and regularly change it out.
saanauk
Well-Known Member
I agree that flouro behind a flasher can lead to broken leaders. Like you say it doesn’t have the give. I tried several trips and just kept snapping leaders with fancy name brand flouro. I even tried several different spools of leader to make sure it was not a bad spool.
But when I am mooching I like using flouro. Only a six to eight ounce weight which is nothing like a flasher. Or straight cut plugs of the rigger. Is seems to be the flouro has better abrasion resistance to chinook teeth. Have to be careful tying knots to make sure it is lubed up before pulling tight.
fishbadger
Active Member
I agree braid with a mono top shot is the way to go, until somebody invents something better. The stretch in that 30 feet of mono comes in handy when hot fish is near the boat, and 40 lb mono plays nice in the DR clip. FG knot for the junction to top shot, used the double uni for years without problems, but the FG is slimmer and stronger, although a ***** to tie until you figure out the trick,
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Stoisy
Active Member
Braid to mono is a great way to go for more experienced anglers. Novice anglers benefit from the mono stretch to help slow the fight down. Plus the braid lasts forever so you're only replacing the top 30,40,50 feet, whatever you prefer.
FG knot from braid to mono is the way to go. It's quick to tie and super thin coming through the guides. Never had one fail and have been fishing them hard for a couple of seasons now. Leader or mainline 40lbs mono will always break first.
FG knot from braid to mono is the way to go. It's quick to tie and super thin coming through the guides. Never had one fail and have been fishing them hard for a couple of seasons now. Leader or mainline 40lbs mono will always break first.
sly_karma
Crew Member
30 lb braid main line then a top shot of 30-50 ft of 30 lb mono. Best of both worlds - braid has minimal stretch so when you're fishing deep you see the bites easily and can quickly pop the clip. Mono up top for a little bit of give when the fish is bouncing around near the boat, plus plenty of thickness for the clip to grab onto.
I like the Albright knot for joining the two as it is designed for lines of dissimilar diameter. Use a combo of 50 lb braid and 30 lb mono on my steelhead rod and it shoots through the guides smoothly every cast. Being a bit of a fuss budget, I trim the ends carefully and then seal and smooth the knot by applying a couple of drops of clear nail polish to it. Produces a knot the size of an uncooked grain of rice.
I like the Albright knot for joining the two as it is designed for lines of dissimilar diameter. Use a combo of 50 lb braid and 30 lb mono on my steelhead rod and it shoots through the guides smoothly every cast. Being a bit of a fuss budget, I trim the ends carefully and then seal and smooth the knot by applying a couple of drops of clear nail polish to it. Produces a knot the size of an uncooked grain of rice.
Sir Reel
Well-Known Member
This is called the Trilene knot and I have used it for 10 years. Almost never have a line to hook failure now.
The knot can be considered a "100% knot" in that the line often breaks above its rated strength, not at the knot. In that respect it is equal to the Palomar Knot, although the Palomar is far superior with braid and super lines.
When tying at home I also dip line in soapy water before doing final cinch. The heat generated by tightening can actually damage the line so the soapy water helps avoid that.
The knot can be considered a "100% knot" in that the line often breaks above its rated strength, not at the knot. In that respect it is equal to the Palomar Knot, although the Palomar is far superior with braid and super lines.
When tying at home I also dip line in soapy water before doing final cinch. The heat generated by tightening can actually damage the line so the soapy water helps avoid that.
Salted
Active Member
What's your fishery like?
If you deal with shakers (small undersize salmon) or other small bycatch, then running braid with a mono topshop is ideal. The braid will telegraph more action to your rod tip, and make it easier to identify small fish on the line. Braid is also going to give you better sensitivity, for whatever you think that's worth.
I spool my salmon moochers with backing, to braid, to mono top shot. I like this best overall.
If you're derby fishing and you tend to have larger fish in your fishery, pure mono is likely to give you the best advantage, as the stretch of mono will make it easier to land fish, especially if you're not experienced. Even if you are experienced, imho it gives you the best shot at landing a fish. After you get used to braid, pure mono is kinda like a condom. Less sensitivity. Maybe you like that, maybe you don't. To each their own.
If you find yourself trying to keep your fish away from a seal, braid is absolutely better. Not that you'd be assured to get it away from the seal, but your chance does go up. It's better for snags too, but if your mooching on the troll bottom snags should never really happen. As others have mentioned, you don't need to replace the braid often, especially if you run 50-65lb braid.
Keep in mind, that braid under 50lb is might be difficult to clip onto your downrigger (for whenever you want to clip on past your top shot length). Topshot length varies by angler, but 20' is minimum, up to maybe... 60'? It varies, adjust to your preference for your fishery, depth preference, and braid lb test rating.
As an aside, keep some salt water lathering soap on board. If you use fish attractant and it gets onto the pads of the clip, only soap is going to save you. AP Tackleworks makes some (wish I could find it in stock!) and I'm sure others as well.
I'd recommend backing, 50 - 65lb braid, and a 30' topshop of high vis 20-30lb mono for the top shot. Save your flouro for between the flasher and bait/lure. I'm not convinced flouro makes a difference in our waters, as it's not exactly crystal clear, especially at depth. Also, replace your flouro at the slightest nick - it's not as forgiving as mono.
Also, you want an FG Knot for your topshot, it will go through the rod guides easier than double uni. Double uni is much easier to tie though, so tie whatever gives you the most confidence.
Hope that helps - tight lines!
If you deal with shakers (small undersize salmon) or other small bycatch, then running braid with a mono topshop is ideal. The braid will telegraph more action to your rod tip, and make it easier to identify small fish on the line. Braid is also going to give you better sensitivity, for whatever you think that's worth.
I spool my salmon moochers with backing, to braid, to mono top shot. I like this best overall.
If you're derby fishing and you tend to have larger fish in your fishery, pure mono is likely to give you the best advantage, as the stretch of mono will make it easier to land fish, especially if you're not experienced. Even if you are experienced, imho it gives you the best shot at landing a fish. After you get used to braid, pure mono is kinda like a condom. Less sensitivity. Maybe you like that, maybe you don't. To each their own.
If you find yourself trying to keep your fish away from a seal, braid is absolutely better. Not that you'd be assured to get it away from the seal, but your chance does go up. It's better for snags too, but if your mooching on the troll bottom snags should never really happen. As others have mentioned, you don't need to replace the braid often, especially if you run 50-65lb braid.
Keep in mind, that braid under 50lb is might be difficult to clip onto your downrigger (for whenever you want to clip on past your top shot length). Topshot length varies by angler, but 20' is minimum, up to maybe... 60'? It varies, adjust to your preference for your fishery, depth preference, and braid lb test rating.
As an aside, keep some salt water lathering soap on board. If you use fish attractant and it gets onto the pads of the clip, only soap is going to save you. AP Tackleworks makes some (wish I could find it in stock!) and I'm sure others as well.
I'd recommend backing, 50 - 65lb braid, and a 30' topshop of high vis 20-30lb mono for the top shot. Save your flouro for between the flasher and bait/lure. I'm not convinced flouro makes a difference in our waters, as it's not exactly crystal clear, especially at depth. Also, replace your flouro at the slightest nick - it's not as forgiving as mono.
Also, you want an FG Knot for your topshot, it will go through the rod guides easier than double uni. Double uni is much easier to tie though, so tie whatever gives you the most confidence.
Hope that helps - tight lines!
Salted
Active Member
25 - 30lb leader flouro (or mono if you like) is typical for Spoons, bait, etc.
For Hoochies 30 / 40 / 50 lb test mono is pretty normal, the higher lb test giving more "whip" to the hooch, especially at shorter leader lengths. Mess around with it and find what you like. Flouro is stiffer than mono, so gives more whip at lesser lb rating.
For Hoochies 30 / 40 / 50 lb test mono is pretty normal, the higher lb test giving more "whip" to the hooch, especially at shorter leader lengths. Mess around with it and find what you like. Flouro is stiffer than mono, so gives more whip at lesser lb rating.
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