Would a 25” fit ??

[brutus]

So with that rake and setback you'll want to end up with the cavitation plate above the keel by around 4.5 to 5 inches. So where in there

Again I did not play with the height, bought it like that and ran it , all I did was change the prop, ran fine no problem getting all Rpm range with the 4 blade prop, with the 3 blade 18 pitch was a dog to get on plane and hard to stay there, needed to stay above 4500rpm (VTech) was open and sucking fuel lol, it is bare minimum for power, 300hp would be ideal

 

[ship happens]

Again I did not play with the height, bought it like that and ran it , all I did was change the prop, ran fine no problem getting all Rpm range with the 4 blade prop, with the 3 blade 18 pitch was a dog to get on plane and hard to stay there, needed to stay above 4500rpm (VTech) was open and sucking fuel lol

25 inch engine would be a perfect fit on that bracket

 

[brutus]

25 inch engine would be a perfect fit on that bracket

You will get to see it first hand as soon as I can get the trailer brakes done, then go from there, who knows that Honda might just be sick and fixable under 800hrs on it, did check the oil yesterday lol and no signs of metal in it, but like I told you before there was in the filter, above my skill level at this point, my mind says Gerry can and a match lol

 

[ship happens]

You will get to see it first hand as soon as I can get the trailer brakes done, then go from there, who knows that Honda might just be sick and fixable under 800hrs on it, did check the oil yesterday lol and no signs of metal in it, but like I told you before there was in the filter, above my skill level at this point, my mind says Gerry can and a match lol

Rodger that

 

[Squire]

Again I did not play with the height, bought it like that and ran it , all I did was change the prop, ran fine no problem getting all Rpm range with the 4 blade prop, with the 3 blade 18 pitch was a dog to get on plane and hard to stay there, needed to stay above 4500rpm (VTech) was open and sucking fuel lol, it is bare minimum for power, 300hp would be ideal

“Ran fine” is purely subjective. If the engine were mounted correctly as per Ship Happens recommendations you would have had better performance. You would likely be able to use a higher pitch prop and still achieve your recommended WOT rpm’s. This would translate into a faster top speed and less fuel burn at cruise because of the reduced drag.
The same horsepower in a 25” version might change your mind about having only minimum power for your boat.

 

[trophywife]

if it does sit lower, just be aware that my old honda 225 would stall out with the slightest amount of exhaust back-pressure. back-trolling was almost impossible in the swell or wave conditions.

 

[brutus]

“Ran fine” is purely subjective. If the engine were mounted correctly as per Ship Happens recommendations you would have had better performance. You would likely be able to use a higher pitch prop and still achieve your recommended WOT rpm’s. This would translate into a faster top speed and less fuel burn at cruise because of the reduced drag.
The same horsepower in a 25” version might change your mind about having only minimum power for your boat.

Again I am no pro, bought the boat like that, it come from a reputable marine shop in the Us, when running the cavitation plate wasn’t buried, from my amateur eye it look fine, performance was really good with the 4 blade, hole shot, top speed and cruising speed , so assuming it was pretty close to where it should be

 

[brutus]

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. At higher RPm it fructutuate from 3700 to 4000 without moving to throttle

 

[ship happens]

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. At higher RPm it fructutuate from 3700 to 4000 without moving to throttle

You really should avoid running an outboard engine like that out of the water for several reasons. The gearcase hates it. It would probly like being smashed into a log better than running like that with a stainless wheel on it. No cooling either. Good way to burn up your oil and backlash the **** out of your gear set. No load.. Meh

Same with the powerhead just maybe not as bad. Cooling is happening but the mechanics of it all still needs a load on it. Hard on the connecting rods and crank doing that. Bearings no likely either.

That's my tip for the day. Bedtime is near

 

[brutus]

You really should avoid running an outboard engine like that out of the water for several reasons. The gearcase hates it. It would probly like being smashed into a log better than running like that with a stainless wheel on it. No cooling either. Good way to burn up your oil and backlash the **** out of your gear set. No load.. Meh

Same with the powerhead just maybe not as bad. Cooling is happening but the mechanics of it all still needs a load on it. Hard on the connecting rods and crank doing that. Bearings no likely either.

That's my tip for the day. Bedtime is near

Point taken,just wanted to see if it would trigger that alarm, it did not

 

[brutus]

Well it’s done, Honda is off the boat, making room for another Honda lol, can’t afford anything else for another few months so to save my season I need to settle for another POS Honda.Alex at moonshine took 15 min to tell me trust bearing are gone, million pieces in the oil, very common on those vintage 225

 

[brutus]

Tttttt

 

[brutus]

Well well,wife convince me to the trigger on a Yamaha 300, got all the paper work done, (quote) ready to go, then Port boat house back off on the deal saying a 25” would not work on my boat, need a 30”, from the tech ( reviewed the pics and discussed over the phone with all the info I provided, said they would not sell me a 25”, no room to play, it might cavitatate at speed, and exhaust to close to the water, need a 30”, Alex at moonshine marine also told me to stick with a 30”. So now my deal is off the table, @trophywife also mentioned about the exhaust thing, never really crossed my mind

 

[Buckethead905]

Well well,wife convince me to the trigger on a Yamaha 300, got all the paper work done, (quote) ready to go, then Port boat house back off on the deal saying a 25” would not work on my boat, need a 30”, from the tech ( reviewed the pics and discussed over the phone with all the info I provided, said they would not sell me a 25”, no room to play, it might cavitatate at speed, and exhaust to close to the water, need a 30”, Alex at moonshine marine also told me to stick with a 30”. So now my deal is off the table, @trophywife also mentioned about the exhaust thing, never really crossed my mind

They won’t sell you a 30”?

 

[brutus]

They won’t sell you a 30”?

None avail, they all sold first

 

[ship happens]

I don't see how a 25inch shaft wouldn't work. Your mounted exactly 5inches up from the original bracket. Honestly that engine might possibly go up a notch as is. Even if you mounted that XL bottomed out on that stainless bracket you will end up with the exact same results you do know once to get rid of the jack plate.

 

[brutus]

I don't see how a 25inch shaft wouldn't work. Your mounted exactly 5inches up from the original bracket. Honestly that engine might possibly go up a notch as is. Even if you mounted that XL bottomed out on that stainless bracket you will end up with the exact same results you do know once to get rid of the jack plate.

29” to the keel from top of original bracket, 26” set back with only the bracket, 2-1/2” up leaves 26”1/2, they told me I am cutting it close, need a 30” , he would not sell me the 25”, believe me I was a bit PO, 30” on the are all sold,. He just told me in case like mine they always suggest a 30”, if the 25 cavities there is no going back

 

[ship happens]

Few more pics, so the cavitation plate sits 3” above the plane of the keel, 5”-1/2” from pod to added brackets, from the plane to top of pod is is 29” so minus the 3” still leaves 26” ???? lol I am really confuse now f….from my amateur brain looks like it would be bottom out with a 25” with no room to go down if need be, bottom out would put the cavitation plate of a 25” 3” above the plane of the keel

You are currently mounted 5 inch above your original bracket.

 

[Buckethead905]

29” to the keel from top of original bracket, 26” set back with only the bracket, 2-1/2” up leaves 26”1/2, they told me I am cutting it close, need a 30” , he would not sell me the 25”, believe me I was a bit PO, 30” on the are all sold,. He just told me in case like mine they always suggest a 30”, if the 25 cavities there is no going back

Can they not just order you a 30” leg? I’m just re-powering with a Yamaha 300 25” leg, they have the powerhead in Vancouver and they’re just waiting on the lower unit. They all come separate and then are put together to suit your lower unit sizing needs. At least this is how I understood it when it was explained to me by the guys at Parker. Seems strange that they wouldn’t be able to source or order a 30” shaft in the first couple months of the year. Unless you never specified and were hoping for a lease return?

 

[brutus]

Can they not just order you a 30” leg? I’m just re-powering with a Yamaha 300 25” leg, they have the powerhead in Vancouver and they’re just waiting on the lower unit. They all come separate and then are put together to suit your lower unit sizing needs. At least this is how I understood it when it was explained to me by the guys at Parker. Seems strange that they wouldn’t be able to source or order a 30” shaft in the first couple months of the year. Unless you never specified and were hoping for a lease return?

Yes lease return