What gauge wire to use

All of my wire connections are crimped and then soldered. Just left a small amount of wire poking though the crimp and soldered that and than shrink tube with the sealant. I put a fuse panel under the dash and a #8 from there to the back and 2 more fuse panels there, 1 is 24 Hr power and the other is switched with a Blue Seas Add A Battery switch. Never ever have had a problem. I did find this on the web though that might be of interest.


Crimping vs Soldering Marine Cable and Wire Connectors
So this is one of the most debated topics in the marine wire world where there are some valid arguments on both sides but I will present some fact and opinions on why I prefer to use crimped connections only.
When it comes to ABYC here's what they have to say on the matter:

11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.

EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of the conductor.

So it appears that ABYC will allow for an "only solder" connection

An important factor to consider is the requirement of stranded cable for use on boats. The same stranded wire requirement is present in many motive (moving) applications where machinery or vehicles sustain vibration which will cause a solid wire to fatigue much faster and induce breakage. The stranded wiring allows vibration to be absorbed over the length of the wire where a solid conductor will focus the vibration at the point of least mobility which by default is the connector since it is secured and immobile.
The importance is the call for a mechanical means of securing the wire to the connector which is accomplished via crimping. With the proper crimping tool using the correct crimping force you'll have a connection that well exceeds any recommended pull out requirements and still allows the stranded wire to do it's job of absorbing the vibrations.

Soldering has with it some inherent drawbacks which are non-disputable. I'm not looking at a benefits comparison but strictly a drawback comparison.

Wicking - Drawback #1
With soldering the melted solder will flow into and between the strands traveling in both directions from the point of soldering. This effect is known as "wicking" and the solder is "wicked" up into the strands of the wire much as a traditional wick will soak up a liquid. The issue arises that the solder creates a solid mass from the stranded wires just outside the connector and creates a new focal point for vibration which can cause the solder to crack inside or crate fatigue on the individual strands facilitating their premature breakage.

No Mechanical Bond - Drawback #2

If a connection is solely soldered there'd be no mechanical connection, nothing to physically hold the connection in place other than the solder itself functioning as a metal "glue" which was not solder's intent. Under a short circuit condition sufficient heat could be focused at the solder connection to cause the solder to re-flow and the wire and connector could separate. This will not occur in a mechanically crimped connection which relies on the connector and wire which have substantially higher melting points than the solder.

Solder then Crimp will Crush the Solder - Drawback #3

There are those that will attempt to solder and then crimp for "double protection" but this is a bad idea on multiple fronts. The first being that the crimp may not form properly with the added mass from the solder in the connector being crimped. The crimp force could crack the solder causing a high electrical resistance point.

Crimp then Solder also Functionally Unnecessary - Drawback #4

There are others who will crimp the wire then remove some of the insulation from just beyond the connector and attempt to backfill with solder to "seal out" moisture and air from entering the stranding there. The issue is that the solder will not flow past the crimp so you'd in essence be putting a mass of solder into the stranded wire just outside the connection which again creates a solid mass as the focal point of vibration and would cause premature strand breakage or other fatigue related problems.
Yet others will drill a hole into the closed end of the connector and fill the small air void with solder. Well, the connection was already closed and sealed to start with and drilling a hole and then filling it with solder accomplishes no more than was already there before this is attempted.

Increased Resistance - Drawback #5

Lead is not as good a conductor as copper. The resistance of copper is 13 times less than lead so why introduce it into the circuit if not necessary? The crimp will be a copper connector and a copper wire and the crimp pressure with seal out air and moisture creating a low resistance connection

In all fairness let's take a look at possible drawbacks to a crimped connection:

Crimp Not Done Properly - Only Drawback

Simple. If you don't crimp properly using low quality tools or the wrong size connector and wire combination then you might have a problem. I fully believe this is where any popularity arose for solder since at a glance it would be easier to use solder as a glue to hold a connection and know it their over the "risk" of making a poor crimp connection such as those who "just hit it with a hammer". That's not really apples to apples, use good tools and follow manufacturer recommendations and you won't have a problem.

When a crimp is properly formed it will last indefinitely. Add to the crimp a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to cover and seal the joint where the wire meets the connector and you have a totally sealed connection.

So in review, just looking at the potential disadvantages I have yet to hear an argument that would move soldering ahead of crimping...heck, I haven't heard an argument than even makes them equal choices. Crimping is the way to go.
 
Ancor 8 AWG and Ancor 10 AWG

I know this should be in For Sale but I thought I'd put it here--- I picked up way more Ancor wire then I need and just finished rewiring my boat so this is spare stuff

If you need some, calculate how many feet, figure out the cost per foot you'd have to pay for it, discount by 50%, add shipping, and I'll put it in the mail

I could cover an order for at least 50 feet of either 8 AWG or 10 AWG

Thanks
 
Just a quick comment on wire colour. Yellow is the new colour for negative/ground wires on the 12 volt system in a boat. It used to be black but that was changed due to the confusion that black wire in a 120 volt system is a "hot" wire. Now I know most of our boats don't run 120 volt AC systems but again that was the reason for the colour change.
 
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Ancor 8 AWG and Ancor 10 AWG

I know this should be in For Sale but I thought I'd put it here--- I picked up way more Ancor wire then I need and just finished rewiring my boat so this is spare stuff

If you need some, calculate how many feet, figure out the cost per foot you'd have to pay for it, discount by 50%, add shipping, and I'll put it in the mail

I could cover an order for at least 50 feet of either 8 AWG or 10 AWG

Thanks

Where are you located, how soon could I get? Just I am ready to run cable this week. Will measure today but will likely need close to 50ft of 8awg. Was actually looking at buying 50ft spool online this might work.
 
Just a quick comment on wire colour. Yellow is the new colour for negative/ground wires on the 12 volt system in a boat. It used to be black but that was changed due to the confusion that black wire in a 120 volt system is a "hot" wire. Now I know most of our boats don't run 120 volt AC systems but again that was the reason for the colour change.

This is just my $0.02... but using yellow colured conductor for any negative (it's not 'technically' a ground ) is not a requirement if there isn't any AC wiring on your boat, and having an onboard 120 V battery charger doesn't constitute AC wiring. The ABYC standard allows for either red/black or red/yellow for DC circuits. I find some suppliers are telling their customers that they MUST use the yellow, they then charge more per foot, you loose. Having said that, if you can get the yellow and at the same price per foot as black (or a red/yellow 2 wire cable), go for it.
I'm in the process of achieving my ABYC electrical certification to go along with all the other electrical certifications hanging on my wall, so if anyone wants any info, send me a PM, advice is free! Wire sizing and making (good) connections are two of the most common problems I see on boats...

Rick


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interesting info here. Ive always been a crimp, then solder, then shrink tube person. Never been a problem, but can be time consuming. I use high quality crimpers so my crimps are always good. Maybe I dont need to solder every connection I make? Plus, most used/existing wires I come across are unsolderable anyway. Like I said, good info here.
 
I re-wired my boat last year and just went with crimp and heat shrink method. I should clarify I used good quality material i.e tinned wire, ancor connectors and ancor heat shrink tubing.

To me the whole idea of soldering just seems counter productive.
Number 1: soldering is a PITA!
Number 2:you defeat the whole purpose of why boat wire is stranded wire in the first place... to be flexible. Once you solder that joint/connection you have made a stranded wire into a solid rigid wire which now has the potential to break do to the fact of it being a rigid (solid) connection.
Obviously heat shrink is an absolute must! Not only will it keep out moisture but it provides support and stability over your connections.
 
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Anybody tried the crimp connectors that are made of heat shrink plastic? , crimp ,shrink , done., unless you are running a main power n ground from batteries to the dash, 10 gauge is all you need, it is good for 30 amps for 30 feet .


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There are two types of heatshrink connetors. One is the cheap ones without adhesive and the other more expensive ones with adhesive. Don't be cheap. Buy the good ones. 10awg is not enough for the job I am doing. 8 is a min. I may have to go 2/0 and never have to worry. :)
 
Anybody tried the crimp connectors that are made of heat shrink plastic? , crimp ,shrink , done., unless you are running a main power n ground from batteries to the dash, 10 gauge is all you need, it is good for 30 amps for 30 feet .


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I'm going to agree with you on the adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors but I'll have to disagree with you on the 30 amp load at 30' = #10 wire...

Here is a screen shot of a volt drop calculator app I have using your figures... (Blue Sea Systems also had a good one too!)

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Over 18% VD and now, if you're feeding to a panel, you're at 9.6 V !!!
At that load & distance you need #2 to just squeak by at less than 3% VD

4ae03f3c0fd8b6a22dc4c92a86ccddb6.jpg


I find the biggest problem guys are having with their electronics failing or underperforming is actually a VD problem that they really don't know they have! They blame the Chartplotter/FF instead of the wiring. At that calculated VD of over 18% that would be just to a panel. Now you feed your electronics through a fuse and a smaller conductor, you've added MORE VD to the circuit. On top of that, if you've got some crappy connections you've compounded it. Will it work like you've described? Probably... Will it work that way for very long? Probably not! I put a lot of money, time and effort into choosing my electronics package, I want to make sure it runs its best all the time, but especially when it's getting snotty out and I need to get home! The cost of proper wire, connectors, and a safe, easy to troubleshoot layout is really small potatoes and usually a one time cost, why not make the best of it?

Just my $0.02...

Rick



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Fair enough, thats what i was told by a commercial electrician, he meant what the wire can withstand , nobody is going to run 30' for 10awg, run a big power n ground from the batteries to a terminal block n use the smaller gauge from there , thanks for the heads up i think we all agree with the cost of marine electronics we want proper voltage to our dash. Where did you find the wire calculations very cool looking app thanks for sharing , also voltage drop testing with a multi-meter to double check if you have to much resistance is a good idea.


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Jeff I just measured my 16ft boat this week and I need to run a 30-32ft curcuit. So yes guys are running 10awg not calculating the compete distance. At a min. I need 8awg. 64 feet to run two complete circuits. Ouch
 

Yup, that's the one! I use it for work because it does more than just 12 V DC (up to 600 V AC) so it might be 'more' than anyone needs. The Blue Sea Systems Circuit Wizard is a great on and it also links to their fuse/breaker products as well as partial quotes from the applicable ABYC regulations.

http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com

You can also download it for iOS and Android to use away from any internet connection as well.

Rick


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Never solder anything on a vehicle other than circuit boards as it creates solid core wire which causes work hardening, breakage, resistance and fires.

Or so the marine electricians I work with tell me.

This is exactly right!! Neighbor mechanic works on the rail transit cars for the city. Says never solder any connections of this sort. Possibilities of overheat and connection coming loose or even totally disconnected and that is not what a guy needs on the water.
High quality wire and connectors that is the correct gage for the application, heat shrink that will seal the connection also, dielectric grease and a proper crimping tool.
You do this job properly and you will have many years of worry free service on the water. That's what I ended up doing on my boat and no worries. Works all the time everytime!! Good luck..
 
Thanks Big B , Wyrguy is obviously an electrician and knows his stuff, very cool man , if i have some electrical questions for my Next boat .. You Da man! Owen what are you wiring? Radar setup you bought?


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