Advice prior to rewiring Double Eagle 17.2

[seabeyond]

Hey fellas

My 17.2 wiring looks like a dogs breakfasts. It mostly works, but I doubt for long. Connections are corroded, no batt switch, lights don't work, rigger wires don't look suffient for prawn puller, etc. I'd rather replace it all and avoid all the little issues.

This boat is only wired for one battery. It's served me fine but I'm wondering if there's reasons I really should be adding another (I can't find a reason myself)? If so where have others stuck the second batt in the 172? The existing batt is in the transom where I don't want the added weight. The only other potential would be the port sleeper which isn't ideal either. Boat lives on the trailer although I wouldn't mind leaving it in the drink for a month every spring.

I bought one of those 9" Garmin units from Cabela's on boxing week and have an existing hook unit I'll use as primarily a sounder. No radar. One pump. Brutus puller. Standard basic uniden radio. All these things mostly operate when the mains running (no overnighting, trolling, anchoring with electronics on, etc).

I haven't had any low voltage issues with the current setup (None I'm aware of anyhow), in the 10 uses since I bought the boat in September.

Power is a 2019 115 yam and a new merc 5ph sailpower as an auxiliary only. This is really a prawn and family boat so not planning on trolling, and if I did it would be on the yam.


So, any must have or nice to have items on the rewire that I might not think about but should add to a small boat like this?

Figured I'd run the float switch right off the battery so it's live with switches off. Is there a better way to keep float switch live?

Suggestions for best store in the Comox Valley for pricing on electrical parts?

Before I pickup wire: Wire size plan but open to suggestions

-8awg for riggers with 40amp inline fuses (less than 10' run)
-8awg for run to forward bus (2 gps units, wiper, led running lights, maybe add an aux plug)
-4 awg from bat to switch
-14awg for the small stuff and to extend the sailpower charging cables (Merc cables are only 5' and the run is 7')

It's a good little rig. Deserves a cleanup.
All thoughts and advice appreciated!

 

[N2013]

I did this to my 185 last year. I only use 1 battery as well. I’ll swap it out every couple years regardless and I do have a spare jumper pak incase I have a dead battery onboard. Make sure your battery switch is fully under cover. I think you’ll be fine with 16awg for your electronics and 10awg for your riggers. I really noticed the size of the 14awg was a little tight under the dash. Blue seas has a chart that suggests what gauge to use based on load & length. I wish I added another usb plug for charging devices but I also have a cigarette lighter should you need to run anything 12v.
Get a proper pair of crimpers & use heat shrink connectors. Know the exact sizes of rings/posts to use for your busses. Also, I wish I just gutted all the old stuff and did it once. I ended up doing some more stuff last year that I didn’t do the first time. It’s worth using some duplex as well for riggers or in areas where there may be some exposure to the elements. I also added a deck light so the rear deck can be illuminated in the dark. I mounted a block on the inside of my boat so I could mount my blue seas fuse block too. When in doubt, replace it and make it new.

 

[Sailfish25]

Download the Blue Sea app for your phone. Makes determining proper wire gauge easy based on run and acceptable voltage drop.

The costs start adding up quick on this project. I did my Grady 2 winters ago, replaced every wire bow to stern. Most supplies I ordered from Harbour Chandler or Trotac. Certain items like Blue Sea rocker switches which retail for about $20 each are just Carling Technologies Contura II switches available at grainger.ca for $5 each. You can save a lot of money by making your own panel too - it’s not rocket science.

Yes - bilge pump float switch goes direct to battery, but you probably also want it going to a rocker switch on your panel.

I did all breakers, no fuses. Replacing an inline fuse when you are rocking back and forth in swell is no fun. I like to push a button.

It’s a fun project and knowing every wire on your boat gives peace of mind.

 

[Brando]

#10 for riggers and puller is sufficient. One battery should be totally fine if you can fit a group 27 even better. I think 6/2 for the run to the bow should also be more than enough for those electronics most of those items are pulling under 3A.

 

[seabeyond]

I did this to my 185 last year. I only use 1 battery as well. I’ll swap it out every couple years regardless and I do have a spare jumper pak incase I have a dead battery onboard. Make sure your battery switch is fully under cover. I think you’ll be fine with 16awg for your electronics and 10awg for your riggers. I really noticed the size of the 14awg was a little tight under the dash. Blue seas has a chart that suggests what gauge to use based on load & length. I wish I added another usb plug for charging devices but I also have a cigarette lighter should you need to run anything 12v.
Get a proper pair of crimpers & use heat shrink connectors. Know the exact sizes of rings/posts to use for your busses. Also, I wish I just gutted all the old stuff and did it once. I ended up doing some more stuff last year that I didn’t do the first time. It’s worth using some duplex as well for riggers or in areas where there may be some exposure to the elements. I also added a deck light so the rear deck can be illuminated in the dark. I mounted a block on the inside of my boat so I could mount my blue seas fuse block too. When in doubt, replace it and make it new.

Thanks for the note about the 16awg in place of some of the 14. I figured for simplicity of less wire spools but this makes sense. Didn't think about the ease of Instal.

Good call on the blocking.

Appreciate the feedback.

 

[seabeyond]

#10 for riggers and puller is sufficient. One battery should be totally fine if you can fit a group 27 even better. I think 6/2 for the run to the bow should also be more than enough for those electronics most of those items are pulling under 3A.

Thanks Brando.

I'll replace with group 27. Should be room.

 

[seabeyond]

Download the Blue Sea app for your phone. Makes determining proper wire gauge easy based on run and acceptable voltage drop.

The costs start adding up quick on this project. I did my Grady 2 winters ago, replaced every wire bow to stern. Most supplies I ordered from Harbour Chandler or Trotac. Certain items like Blue Sea rocker switches which retail for about $20 each are just Carling Technologies Contura II switches available at grainger.ca for $5 each. You can save a lot of money by making your own panel too - it’s not rocket science.

Yes - bilge pump float switch goes direct to battery, but you probably also want it going to a rocker switch on your panel.

I did all breakers, no fuses. Replacing an inline fuse when you are rocking back and forth in swell is no fun. I like to push a button.

It’s a fun project and knowing every wire on your boat gives peace of mind.

Nice and clean Sailfish. Big job on a boat that size.

Good call on the breakers. I have fuses throughout the big boat and wish the riggers were more accessible (and weren't fuses)

Thanks for the granger tip.

 

[Earl Ledge]

My only addiction would be to label things as you go. Think you can expect to get some years out of your battery, maybe carry a jump pack as a backup and put the battery on a battery tender off season.

 

[chille51]

I just did a pretty major rewire on my Arima earlier this year. There may or may not be a thread on here somewhere venting some of my frustrations in progress . All great advice above, couple things I would add:

- Plan it out. Like make a schematic - what wire runs where, what fuse is dedicated to what device, wire gauge etc. Then use it as you work - check off each item as you complete it, and where you have to deviate from the plan (you will) - redline it in pen. Then when you are done you can finalize the drawing digitally and keep it for future reference. I just did mine in Visio. As noted, the Blue Seas website is great for both schematics and figuring out wiring sizes and amp draws etc.
- Get organized - you will end up with a million different types and sizes of connectors, screws, heat shrink etc. Seems like every panel and fuse block uses a different size/style, even if you stick to the same manufacturer. Invest in some sort of organizer and use it. You'll know where the sizes of connectors you need are, and easily be able to tell when you are going to run out. I only did this about halfway through - and there were a lot of extra trips to the store to get things last minute as a result. Not sure where you are but around here in Nanaimo, there is no store open on Sunday. So if you don't have what you need you might loose half the weekend.
- Don't cheap out. Use the marine connectors and heat shrink, best tools you can afford etc. The marine connectors shrink down nicely with a little bit of heat gun action. Cheap automotive stuff, not so much.
- When running your wires over any distance, use sacrificial zip ties. I ran most of my front to back wiring up under the gunnel, and had loose zip ties every two feet or so. Was easy to pull cables through them without it being a total mess, but loose enough I could add something without starting over. Once I was sure all my runs were complete, only then did I I tighten everything up neatly.
- Think ahead to things you may add in the future, and run the cables now.
- Don't be a meathead with your tools. I cranked down a terminal too tightly with probably too big a ratchet on a brand new ACR and busted a terminal off. No way I could argue warranty, totally my own fault. Had to buy another one at $120. Expensive mistake.

 

[N2013]

Use a heat gun adapter as well. Google it. Protects the immediate rear area you're heating. Weapons free. Sorta.

 

[seabeyond]

I completed the rewire in the spring. The earlier above insight was appreciated and helpful for the job. Thanks guys.
Took a full day to remove and replace the wiring and modernize the system (still basic of on a 17')
Hopefully others will search this thread down the line and find it useful as it's common task on the older runabout hulls!

 

[chille51]

I completed the rewire in the spring. The earlier above insight was appreciated and helpful for the job. Thanks guys.
Took a full day to remove and replace the wiring and modernize the system (still basic of on a 17')
Hopefully others will search this thread down the line and find it useful as it's common task on the older runabout hulls!

lol... yeah, didn't notice the zombie thread dates when I replied. Sounds like you shoulda been giving me advice - took me a helluva lot longer than 1 day!

 

[Foxsea]

In Courtenay, Strathcona is a good source for Ancor marine wire, ring terminals, etc. You can buy some quality tools there, as well. They rent a lug crimper for battery terminations. When ordering wire, always add an extra foot or two. Try to stick with common color coding for wiring and label the wiring at the buss. Do not stack terminals on the battery posts. Use busses. Route wire neatly and restrain it. Always test your crimps before heat- shrinking. Use No-Ox or similar on spade connections and terminals. Buy the best, including quality connectors and Blue Seas products.