Water between under between fiberglass hull ??

kitman

Member
Hello...

I'm new boater and brought a used 1992 boat , after my first trip on water ,I realize quite a but for water trap between the hull and its not getting away.. I wonder if it's from the ocean or its from when I wash my boat.Is this anything serious that I need to take care of?I have attached a few photo. It would be great if someone could help me out , thanks alot
 

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Looks like a Boston Whaler copy. They are usually built like a sandwich of hull, foam then inner hull/deck. The foam provides the strength since there are no stringers.
Over time some water can get into the foam usually due to poorly sealed fasteners.
My theory is someone cut a hole in the deck to see how soggy the foam was. Then they dug some wet foam out and put a hatch in the deck. The hatch leaks now making it worse .

The foam is supposed to provide strength. Does the deck flex if you stand beside the hatch and jump?

For now you need to get as much water as possible out, seal all the fastener holes, pour in some 2 part foam, and put in a new hatch, then go fishing.
If the existing foam is saturated a longer term proper fix might not be worth it on that hull.
 
Years ago, I bought a similar ( not nearly as pretty) 16' boat with water saturated foam between the hull and deck. It likely added an extra 2 - 300 pounds of weight. I decided to see what was under the rub rail - rivets. Screws would have been easier. I drilled them out. Not surprisingly, with a bit of carefully prying, the old caulking gave up easily - something cheap and nasty.

Leaving the hull strapped on the trailer, me and three husky neighbour's were able to separate the deck and then walk it off the hull. The foam had not really stuck to the deck. Now, suit up! That old foam is dirty, itchy stuff. What a mess! It came out in little, crumbly chunks, kind of like that sea foam candy. After many hours I had scraped out several heavy garbage bags full of it.

After vacuuming out the remnants, I stacked blue foam board to fill in the void between the hull and deck. It was not fine work, in fact pretty rough. I stacked it up loose to be a little lower than the space available. This boat had two long, tubular glass "stringers", the keel and a plywood transom stuck to the hull, with some rot to repair. No built-in tank - too shallow, but some wiring for nav. lights.

My neighbours helped dry fit the deck. It was actually pretty good on the first attempt. We took it off, once more. Then we sprayed the blue board and transom with about five cans of foam and quickly put the deck back on. The neighbours sat inside as ballast, drinking beer. I went around and piloted some holes, then put a few s/s screws through the joint to temporarily hold things together. The next day, I caulked the joint from below with Sikaflex and put more screws in, then the rub rail went back on.

It was a big, ugly job. I had that boat for four more years and it was great. Any water could now find its way to the transom plug. It was lighter so we could plane with three guys aboard. It was a cheap way to get a decent fishing boat.
 
Looks like a Boston Whaler copy. They are usually built like a sandwich of hull, foam then inner hull/deck. The foam provides the strength since there are no stringers.
Over time some water can get into the foam usually due to poorly sealed fasteners.
My theory is someone cut a hole in the deck to see how soggy the foam was. Then they dug some wet foam out and put a hatch in the deck. The hatch leaks now making it worse .

The foam is supposed to provide strength. Does the deck flex if you stand beside the hatch and jump?

For now you need to get as much water as possible out, seal all the fastener holes, pour in some 2 part foam, and put in a new hatch, then go fishing.
If the existing foam is saturated a longer term proper fix might not be worth it on that hull.
I agree. I've got an 18' whaler, recored the transom, put a pod on it etc. What Tubber says makes sense. You could dry it out and fill the hole with pour in place two part foam, or dry it out and seal the hatch with sikaflex to keep water from getting in the hole or just ignore it. I wouldn't worry about it at all. I've seen whalers with 2" diameter holes in the hull below the waterline that had been there so long the foam had barnacles growing on it.
 
DEL
I agree. I've got an 18' whaler, recored the transom, put a pod on it etc. What Tubber says makes sense. You could dry it out and fill the hole with pour in place two part foam, or dry it out and seal the hatch with sikaflex to keep water from getting in the hole or just ignore it. I wouldn't worry about it at all. I've seen whalers with 2" diameter holes in the hull below the waterline that had been there so long the foam had barnacles growing on it.
The problem is to dry it out. The old foam is not closed cell and so it's a big sponge. From earlier experience, I'll say with confidence that will not happen through a hatch. Yes, the boat may not sink but it's a matter of the kind of boat one wants under them.
 
DEL

The problem is to dry it out. The old foam is not closed cell and so it's a big sponge. From earlier experience, I'll say with confidence that will not happen through a hatch. Yes, the boat may not sink but it's a matter of the kind of boat one wants under them.
Mine is only saturated about 1/4" around all the edges, but it's pretty much everywhere. Every crack in the gel coat weeps when it's out of the water, even above the water line. The water hasn't soaked more than 1/4" into the foam though, it's just right up against the glass that's wet, even along the keel where you would expect water to collect. Similar with the boat with the hole in the hull. Buddy did a refit on it, dug out the foam around the hole in the hull before pouring new foam and patching the glass. Foam was only wet maybe 1" deep or so even though it had been immersed in water for who knows how long.

Maybe they used different foam at different times or the foam absorbs water really really slowly?
 
Mine is only saturated about 1/4" around all the edges, but it's pretty much everywhere. Every crack in the gel coat weeps when it's out of the water, even above the water line. The water hasn't soaked more than 1/4" into the foam though, it's just right up against the glass that's wet, even along the keel where you would expect water to collect. Similar with the boat with the hole in the hull. Buddy did a refit on it, dug out the foam around the hole in the hull before pouring new foam and patching the glass. Foam was only wet maybe 1" deep or so even though it had been immersed in water for who knows how long.

Maybe they used different foam at different times or the foam absorbs water really really slowly?
Yes, the newer foam chemistry was much improved! If the penetration is minor, forget it.
However, foam fill, in a small boat with reasonable access, can be dried with vacuum bagging. Seal the boat in 6 mil poly film and Tuck Tape, then connect a $200 vacuum pump (as is used in HVAC) hose at an access for a few days. It will dry saturated fiberglass too. Afterward, seal any cracks or other openings.
 
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