Transducer

[Sir Reel]

Here’s another thing you may want to do.
I put a bow eye in. I got a halibut anchor setup and also wanted to tie off my anchor chain with a snubber. It was a pretty easy install. We put a piece of angle aluminum as a backing plate and epoxied in.

 

[Corbin]

Oh boy. These were nice clean green engines, a joy to show off. Unfortunately they were hiding a dirty secret. I'm hoping the port engine is not as bad, but some major components of the heat exchange system on the starboard engine are corroded beyond repair. I will bring the pieces into my dealer, but I'm pretty sure I know what he's going to say. I'm looking at a new charge air cooler housing for sure, and most of the oil cooler housing.

Get a flash light, look under the fuel cooler, the very back of the oil cooler, on top of the starter. If you see white anywhere start digging. Like I said, these engines are clean, the bilge was clean, just a little white...

Also, all my cores are about 20% plugged and full of crud. I'm amazed these engines ran so beautifully! My dealer installs a fresh water T prior to the water pump in all their engines. When you get back to the shed you hook up a water hose and run the engines for a bit - you eliminate all the salt from inside all systems.

 

[Sir Reel]

I'll be back on the boat in a week and have a look. It is also coming out for bottom cleaning end of April and I will have Pleasurecraft have a look too.
Do you think corrosion was due to not changing engine zincs frequently enough? Are you going to install a fresh water T prior to the water pump?
I looked at doing that but it is a fairly big hose and thought if you T'd it might impede water flow. When I leave the boat I open the strainer baskets and run fresh water through them. It seems to flow through so may help a bit. Best would be to run Salt Away through each time.

Your boat has been out for a while. Do you store on land for the winter or just now while you are working on it?

 

[Sir Reel]

I wonder if we should start a Commander header under Boats, Motors, Trailers, and towing rigs. This is good stuff

 

[Corbin]

From what I've read and from what SeaPower tells me, leaking around the plastic caps on the front of the charge air cooler and the back of the oil cooler is a common problem. SeaPower recommends replacing the seals every three years or so, or if you see salt. It's possible that over the years the zincs weren't kept up but it would appear the problem was that they were left too long, the engines look clean so I can see how it happens.

Water poured into the strainer will flow back to the pick up in the leg, the water has to be pumped into the coolers. Seapower has the T's manufactured out of stainless at Philbrooks next door to their shop. I will be stopping in Thursday and ordering two. I will also start the removal on the port engine, really hope I'm not buying a bunch more metal.

I had the boat trucked home and set beside my shop for the winter, I hope to get my wish list complete and then she will live in the shed full time. Want to be back in by May, hopefully no more snags. Still need to replace the shift cables to the upgraded ones - I have been told to replace them every three years. While checking out Commanders at the local yards prior to purchase a found that many of them were up to get failed cables replaced. My cables are not original, but now is the time.

I would agree that the way that board is screwed down is not ideal, I have bigger fish to fry right now though. There are a few organizational things I want to do in the engine bay, but I can putter away at them in the future.

Did I mention the Victron battery combiner? Now when the start battery is charged, which it pretty much always is, both alternators will be charging the house bank. The house bank will also be getting charged while trolling on the starboard engine. I also really like the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor, with the blue tooth app I can determine the draw on anything in the boat.

 

[Sir Reel]

I did my shift cables last year. Is a pretty easy job. I hear if the cables jam or become stiff you can damaged the shift actuators and they are $1500.

 

[Mike park]

So mine is a 2005 as well. I have the D4 260hp's though. Can hit 42 mph. Have owned it since 2017. Did your bottom paint come blue or black? Mine was blue but changed to black last year and looks so much better.
We changed all the green carpet to a nut brown and reupholstered everything in a cream ultra leather. I also put in a new Bentley helm seat with arm rests. Its like a new boat. Your new floor will give it a yacht feel!
Are you changing the canvas color? I was thinking of going to a Navy Blue. I have a full cockpit canvas cover with solar panels on top. Was going to remove them but was amazed at how much power they put out. At anchor I can have everything on that I need and still charge the batteries. Its about 200 watts in full sun.
I enjoy working on the boat. Do as much as I can myself. Looks like you do to.
Cheers!
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that is a beautiful boat

 

[Sir Reel]

Thanks Mike. I sure like it.

 

[Sir Reel]

Hey Mike,
Do you have these drain plugs on your 210's and if so did you consider using them for freshwater?
Is it possible to move freshwater through the system without running the engine? I can't run mine for more than a minute or 2 in my boathouse or I get smoked out!

 

[Mike park]

Hey Mike,
Do you have these drain plugs on your 210's and if so did you consider using them for freshwater?
Is it possible to move freshwater through the system without running the engine? I can't run mine for more than a minute or 2 in my boathouse or I get smoked out!

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I think that was that was corbin with the 210s I've got the tender

 

[Sir Reel]

I think that was that was corbin with the 210s I've got the tender

Corbin is a Mike too. Ha ha

 

[Mike park]

Corbin is a Mike too. Ha ha

thats funny you have a belt driven pump So I would say no flow

 

[Sir Reel]

Ya it sounds like a bad idea. I can get a T made to put in the pickup hose and then can run fresh water through while engine is running

 

[Sir Reel]

Here is a picture of the AC panel with the backlight

 

[Sharphooks]

I believe the B175HW is dual frequency so the Evo may not support it. Depending on which head unit I get a
I may go with the B175M as well. Also looking at the M260 so no holes and then I don’t have to haul out. ..."

Hey Sir Reel....the B175HW is not a true dual frequency transducer like say a P66....it fires all the frequencies between 150 - 250 KhZ, so it’s consider a “high frequency” transducer. I've run that transducer in my last two boats, with an M260 in a wet box mounted just ahead of the thru hull. It makes a good pair as the M260 has a narrower beam and will penetrate much deeper into the water column, even while shooting through a fiberglass floor. Here's a screen shot of the B175HW tracking gear through a bait ball.

Here’s a pic of what they look like mounted:



Because they’re different frequencies, no problem running them side by side and simultaneously on a screen.

I also installed a Furuno DFF3D for side scan. Here’s a comparison of a bait ball as captured by the B175HW on the left and the Furuno DFF3D on the right—-it’s interesting how a multi-beam sonar painting a bait ball from different vantage points makes it appear to be more scattered and spread out then the single beam of a high frequency Chirp transducer like the B175HW




I attach a very informative link from Airmar showing all their available transducers, their individual beam angles at various depths, and the amount of real estate (beam circle) they capture at those various depths

http://www.airmartechnology.com/bottom-calculator.html

I have two very expensive transducer technologies on my boat, both having a huge “wow” factor, but when I look at this calculator and compare the beam angles at various depths, I understand why my P66 transducer, the tried and true 600W 50/200 KHz transom mount skimmer transducer that I purchased for
$ 75.00, has always been and continues to be my bread and butter transducer for catching fish