Transducer

[Sir Reel]

Couple other little upgrades I did. New outlets with stainless steel plates. Also later changed that outlet to GFI.
Changed the tap to something more modern. Fits right in no problem.

 

[casper5280]

I redid all my interior in Arborite. Made it a totally different boat, hundreds of different colors and patterns to choose from.

 

[Corbin]

Thanks. The last two coats are Polyurethane which should be quite durable, but there will be dings and scratches. We did plan on redoing the counter tops and looked at the Corian, but it seems not many companies are doing it any more, at least on the island. In the end it was just going to be too much hassle. We discussed changing the Arborite which is pretty simple, but had to draw the line somewhere - I already get too much grief for spending all my time in the shop.

Could you give me the info on which/where you got the struts for your engine room hatch? I think I'll put that on the list too.

Still removing all the Lowrance stuff, miles of wire. Hope to start the Simrad/NMEA2000 install next days off.

 

[Sir Reel]

Thanks. The last two coats are Polyurethane which should be quite durable, but there will be dings and scratches. We did plan on redoing the counter tops and looked at the Corian, but it seems not many companies are doing it any more, at least on the island. In the end it was just going to be too much hassle. We discussed changing the Arborite which is pretty simple, but had to draw the line somewhere - I already get too much grief for spending all my time in the shop.

Could you give me the info on which/where you got the struts for your engine room hatch? I think I'll put that on the list too.

Still removing all the Lowrance stuff, miles of wire. Hope to start the Simrad/NMEA2000 install next days off.

This is the gas struts place in Vernon. Really good guy. If you mention Dave in Kelowna he will probably remember me and the shock he used. I had to make a stainless steel bracket and block for the bottom attachment joint.
The best thing is it stays open when working on the engine. Don’t have to attach safety strap.

https://www.geminigassprings.com/

The picture shows the part number he needs. Strut size and Newton’s of pressure.

They also had too much pressure when I got them so you use a little nail and the bolt it comes with and you can reduce until you get just the right closing/opening effort.

Floform does Corian. Not sure if they are on the island. So does Home Depot. However if you look under the counter you will see what I mean. Would not come apart easy.

I might try making a table like they have in Ocean Sports. Teak inlays with an epoxy finish. That would look nice.
Right now I have a gulf islands map with thick plyable plastic used for table tops. Provides a non skid surface

 

[Waterwolf2230]

I had a SS175HW on my boat last year. Pretty amazing clarity. You could pick out fish in schools of bait at times. I’ll be getting another on my next build.

 

[Thunder21]

I had a SS175HW on my boat last year. Pretty amazing clarity. You could pick out fish in schools of bait at times. I’ll be getting another on my next build.

What happened to the new rig? Upgrading already?

 

[Sir Reel]

I had a SS175HW on my boat last year. Pretty amazing clarity. You could pick out fish in schools of bait at times. I’ll be getting another on my next build.

How was it for non fishing? Like cruising at speed how deep could you hold bottom?

 

[Barman]

How was it for non fishing? Like cruising at speed how deep could you hold bottom?

I have a similar transducer (same power and frequency) and I can hold bottom at 30mph cruise to 1000'

 

[Sir Reel]

I have a similar transducer (same power and frequency) and I can hold bottom at 30mph cruise to 1000'

Well that otta work. Lol. Thanks!

 

[BCI]

Well that otta work. Lol. Thanks!

The B175HW held 800 feet at 30-35mph on my Ocean Sport 30.

 

[Waterwolf2230]

I have a similar transducer (same power and frequency) and I can hold bottom at 30mph cruise to 1000'

You took the words out of my mouth.

 

[Corbin]

Sir Reel,

Where is your autopilot compass installed?

 

[Sir Reel]

Its in the cupboard under your feet when sitting at the lower helm. It is mounted on the forward part of that cupboard and is well out of the way.

 

[Corbin]

Hmm, not a bad idea.

 

[Corbin]

Sir Reel,

I am still waiting for my transducer, but the gaping hole is ready.

I've switched gears, rebuild all coolers on both engines. STBD oil cooler had a bad leak, rusty mess. Coolers are off, will clean up the block and starter tomorrow - start the cooler rebuild next week. I'm doing one engine at a time - learning curve.

 

[Sir Reel]

Geez that looks nice. Did you have a transducer like I did, the B744, in there before?
Did you have to do some fibreglass work to fill the old hole.
The hull sure is thick there. About 2”?
I have not had any oil cooler leaks and engines are pretty clean. Knock on wood!

Your going to have a new boat when done!

 

[Sir Reel]

Not sure if you have the same engine room light I did. Was a single halogen light which didn’t do much.
I put in 4 LED strips I got at Princess Auto and attached to a new Blue Sea waterproof 4 switch box to the left of the ladder. It sure is nice for working on the engines. Might be a plan while your down there.

 

[Corbin]

I had the same transducer, came out pretty well with a 2x4 and a five pound hammer. I filled and faired the inside and out using a template that I made, lots of cleaning with a dremel before filling. The hull is about 1 1/4, which is pretty thick for a 30 footer! There is a 1/2 inch fiberglass plate that is bonded over the transducer hole.

I installed a few extra lights too, not quite as bright as yours though.

My charge air coolers were going white and the port one was leaving a little salt pile. The Volvo guys said that all the coolers should be done and that it's not uncommon to have internal leaks too. They said that for the age of the engines they should definitely be done. I didn't even know about the messy leak behind the oil cooler until I started pulling things off. I think the Volvo guys were right, all the o-rings are hard and brittle, a leak was only a matter of time.

 

[Sir Reel]

Thanks for posting all this. Really appreciate it.
I still think I will do another hole for the new transducer and leave the original. The way I am designing my electronics I will still use that transducer. I heard it gives a better view in shallow water for anchoring.

If you can would love to see pics of the cooler too. I have not seen any corrosion but maybe not looking in the right place. I like to stay ahead of maintenance so if needs doing will get it done.
When I got the boat I did all oils, serpentine belts, idler wheels, (there is an known failure and upgrade) impellers, antifreeze, risers checked, props tuned, air cleaner, crankcase filters, full engine wash and detai. Cleaned all battery connections. Oh and I think I went fishing once too. Ha ha.

 

[Sir Reel]

You must have the board in front of the engines that spans the length of the engine mounts. Probably took it out to do your transducer.
I don’t like the way it screws into the mounts and was thinking of over drilling and expoxying to prevent any water intrusion.
What are your thoughts on that?